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  #1  
Old 05-30-2009, 09:35 AM
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Blown head gasket symptoms.

We have lots of new to me 6.0 owners that have asked about the dreaded blown HG.I will start s tread on the symptoms and similar issues that appear to be blown HGs.

First what it is and why it happens. The 6.0 more prone than a lot of motors to lift the heads because of the design of the motor(4 bolts per cylinder) and torque to yield head bolts(TTY). This is the reason that most that know the 6.0 will tell you not to run a tuner on a stock truck. There was also some issues in manufacture on early trucks. The robots were recalibrated to correct this at Fords request in the international manufacturing facilities. The odd thing is some early trucks still have stock bolts and gaskets without any issue.So it is hit and miss.

In the 6.0 unlike a gasser when the HG blows the coolant doesn't enter the combustion chamber on a running truck (18-1 compression)but it can enter the chamber with a in some cases once the motor stops running in small quantities.So if your truck is running and there is a plume of stinky sweet white smoke coming out the exhaust you have other issues (EGR cooler very likely). The 6.0 pressurizes the water jacket in the motor and that pressure is pushed out the degas tank with coolant in what is known as puking.

Puking a quantity of coolant out the coolant tank is not necessarily a blown HG as flash boiling of coolant in the EGR cooler can also cause puking. This can be caused by a restricted oil cooler or bad water pump. Though when the truck pukes a couple gallons of coolant it is most all ways blown HGs.

When the HG is blown the truck runs as normal and may not puke much or at all, until it is worked hard at that point it will puke until the load is off the motor.If a truck is run in these conditions it is only a matter of time until the problem becomes worse as the gasket lets more and more combustion gas in the water jacket.

I will leave this here until I have more time to type (I type and spell poorly),I gotta go to work. I hope this info will help others that are new to the 6.0 .Anyone that has more info to add Please do.
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Old 05-30-2009, 11:03 AM
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Common Causes for loss of coolant
EGR Cooler leaking
EGR cooler hose leaking
Oil Cooler plugged or leaking (which elevates oil temps AND prevents coolant flow to EGR cooler
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_html/html/Page_074.html
Blown Head Gaskets from stretched TTY bolts, most likely from excessive CP (cylinder pressure)
Bad degas bottle cap (if you are puking coolant, you should replace the degas bottle cap after fixing the root problem).
Clogged Radiator (air side)
Thermostat
Some suspect a collapsed radiator hose
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Injector cup
Glow plug cup
Warped or cracked head
Water pump fins are split where they go around the shaft:
Problem: When they fail, they only spin for a while and when they get hot the spinning will slow down. An easy way to check for this problem is pull the hose off the degas bottle from the intake it should pump the same amount out hot or cold. This can make your engine puke if it is your problem.
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68584&page=2

Common Root Causes for failed head gaskets - overboost and high cylinder pressures or warped heads (early on there were some torquing and casting problems)


Note: the degas bottle cap (coolant reservoir cap) should be replaced if it's been puked through more than once.
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  #3  
Old 05-30-2009, 11:04 AM
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Common OVERBOOST Causes
1. IRREGULAR RESPONSE IN VGT
2. BIASED EBP SENSOR
3. IRREGULAR EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION
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Old 05-30-2009, 11:10 AM
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Visual inspection chart for coolant loss and cooling system problems:

Mechanical

Leaks or weeps at:
  • Hoses
  • Tubes
  • Clamp joints
  • Gaskets
  • O-rings
  • Thermostat housing
  • Radiator
  • Pressure relief cap
  • Coolant pump
  • Heater core (wet floor or coolant odor in vehicle)
  • Coolant crossover manifold assembly
  • Oil cooler
  • Degas bottle

  • Cylinder block core plugs


  • Block heater
  • EGR cooler
  • EGR valve

Cracked or damaged:

  • Hoses
  • Tubes
  • Hose clamps
  • Thermostat housing
  • Radiator
  • Pressure relief cap
  • Cooling fan
  • Fan clutch
  • Coolant pump
  • Degas bottle
  • Oil cooler
  • Coolant crossover manifold assembly
  • Cylinder block core plugs


  • Block heater
  • Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) cooler
  • EGR valve

Restricted airflow through the A/C condenser/radiator
Drive belt loose, worn or installed incorrectly
Broken or weak drive belt tensioner
Excessive white or light gray exhaust smoke (may have burnt coolant odor)
Coolant in engine oil
Engine oil in coolant
Coolant in automatic transmission fluid (if equipped)
Automatic transmission fluid (if equipped) in coolant
Fuel in coolant



Electrical:


Inoperative or damaged:

Electronically actuated fan clutch
Electronically actuated fan clutch controller
Wiring, connectors, relays or modules
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor (if equipped)
Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor (if equipped)
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor (if equipped)
Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
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Old 05-30-2009, 12:05 PM
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Here is a good troubleshooting chart for coolant loss:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/pi...pictureid=8369
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Old 05-30-2009, 12:30 PM
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Big High Five for both of you Brickie and Bismic as always. I'd rep you both, but I gotta spread the love some.
Not much to add to it guys, just an opinion.
If you do have a blown HG, sooner or later you going to have to get your vehicle fixed. Do not hesitate to spend the extra $ to get the ARP head studs installed. Some sources - ebay - advertise, sell "upgraded" head bolts. Stay away from it, they are the same TTY bolts as the ones that let your head lift. Even though the installation could be as perfect as possible, but the insurance to NOT have anymore HG issues are he ARP studs. Well worth the money.
- by the way I'm not a rep for Automotive Racing Products, just a really satisfied truck owner with studs installed-
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:43 AM
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I have a 2005 6.0L with 96700 miles- it is at dealer shop now with Blown head gaskets-my question is this--On DEC.8 2010 I took truck to dealer for service- oilchange-I told the shop foreman about a small oil leak,he told me after the oil change that he put some Dye inthe oil and to drive it a while -bring it back he would check for leak- I drove it for about a week then it begin giving me trouble- Do you think the Dye could have plugged the oil cooler and started this problem? Thanks
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Old 01-16-2011, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dugoutdoug View Post
I have a 2005 6.0L with 96700 miles- it is at dealer shop now with Blown head gaskets-my question is this--On DEC.8 2010 I took truck to dealer for service- oilchange-I told the shop foreman about a small oil leak,he told me after the oil change that he put some Dye inthe oil and to drive it a while -bring it back he would check for leak- I drove it for about a week then it begin giving me trouble- Do you think the Dye could have plugged the oil cooler and started this problem? Thanks
Absolutely not. It's not the oil section of the oil cooler that gets plugged, it's the coolant section. Do a little searching and you'll find hours of reading on oil cooler replacement/failure
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Old 01-19-2011, 07:01 PM
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I always thought you would notice a loss of power when the headgaskets were blown. If theres no noticable symptoms when driving, then couldnt someone be driving around on blown HGs for miles without even knowing it?
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Old 01-19-2011, 07:08 PM
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IMO - yes.
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Old 04-26-2012, 10:21 PM
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I was told by a dealer that my hgs are blown. The only problem I am having with the truck is the fan clutch is kicking on and off for no reason. At highway speeds the temp gauge goes fairly high then comes back down. No loss of power, no puking, no coolant loss and no white smoke or any smoke from the tailpipe. I changed the fan clutch thinking it was bad like it has before. I replaced the ect sensor. It did not help. I replaced the oil cooler and did the egr delete myself about 20K miles ago. Been running good. Just about had with the old beech. Anyone have any suggestions? How about a good independent mechanic in Dallas? Someone please help me before this thing becomes a freshwater reef!Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 04-27-2012, 03:09 AM
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contact cheezit.

also:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...nts-degas.html
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
Common Causes for loss of coolant
EGR Cooler leaking
EGR cooler hose leaking
Oil Cooler plugged or leaking (which elevates oil temps AND prevents coolant flow to EGR cooler
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_html/html/Page_074.html
Blown Head Gaskets from stretched TTY bolts, most likely from excessive CP (cylinder pressure)
Bad degas bottle cap (if you are puking coolant, you should replace the degas bottle cap after fixing the root problem).
Clogged Radiator (air side)
Thermostat
Some suspect a collapsed radiator hose
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Injector cup
Glow plug cup
Warped or cracked head
Water pump fins are split where they go around the shaft:
Problem: When they fail, they only spin for a while and when they get hot the spinning will slow down. An easy way to check for this problem is pull the hose off the degas bottle from the intake it should pump the same amount out hot or cold. This can make your engine puke if it is your problem.
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68584&page=2

Common Root Causes for failed head gaskets - overboost and high cylinder pressures or warped heads (early on there were some torquing and casting problems)


Note: the degas bottle cap (coolant reservoir cap) should be replaced if it's been puked through more than once.

Bismic, I was driving my truck today pulling a 8,000lb camper with ease. My temps stayed down and it ran fine. When ingot out of the truck I smelled a strong odor of antifreeze and found a couple drops on top of the cold air intake box. I could not find any leaks and nothing was dripping. I just had ARP head studs put on. I had black onyx gaskets installed at a the recommendation of the dealer where I purchased all of the other parts. The mechanics cleaned all surfaces and did a goof job with it. Any idea what's going on? I can't imagine having a blown head gasket already!
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:25 PM
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I am sure you have already read threads on BO head gaskets, so I won't go there.

As posted earlier, there are any number of places for coolant leaks - hoses, degas cap, degas reservoir, water pump, radiator, heater core, etc. Try to rule each one out methodically.

If you are worried about head gaskets, I would follow the thread I wrote on troubleshooting the issue (link posted earlier). It was written to follow the TSB pretty closely in the important areas.
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Old 07-29-2012, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
Here is a good troubleshooting chart for coolant loss:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/pi...pictureid=8369
Well, after replacing the head gaskets with BLACK ONYX head gaskets (dealer recommendation) I pulled for the first time with a tow tune and blew a head gasket. I am pissed, I just spent a ton of money on this engine and these gaskets don't even have 300 miles on them AND I am running ARP studs!! I am not running the truck hard at all either. So, now that I am stuck with a truck with blown head gaskets, what do I replace them with THAT WON'T BLOW? I am tired of this truck being a money pit!!!!!!!
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Old 07-29-2012, 06:37 AM
 
 
 
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