Hey Folks, Just wanted to let all of you know that the 2006 3V into a 2000 F350SD swap is finally complete! The problems causing the hard starting were 1. Low fuel pressure caused by a faulty fuel pressure regulator - when replaced the fuel pressure came up from 30 PSI (key on not started) and 28 PSI while running to 35 and 31 respectively.

2. Fuel pressure still being slightly low I plugged off the fuel return line with no increase in pressure. My son and I replaced the fuel pump assembly and pressure jumped to 45 (key on not started) and 34 PSI when running and this time it would jump up in the mid 40's when revved up.

Easier to start but not quite perfect I swapped out the camshaft positioning sensor (due to the 0340 code being set) with absolutely no improvement. Thinking through our conversion and what we had done with having to extend the camshaft position sensor wiring harness to reach the passenger side of the 2006 engine, I asked my son to reverse the wires leading to the camshaft position sensor. POW!!!! Perfect start up every time!

The idle is a lot smoother and the engine sounds much better when revved. It still sets the 0340 code and lights the service engine light but I can live with that to have a excellent running practically brand new engine in my pickup! No more embarrassing starting issues in front of the Dodge and Chevy guys!! Happiness!




a wiring issue with the

 

Great to hear! Congratulations on successfully tackling a not-so-trivial challenge.

I still have my 3V heads, exhaust mans, and intake sitting on the shelf.... hmmmm...

NOPE! Taunting the smog laws in Kali is just too risky.....

 

Also, if you want to be a local legend, post up the final configuration of parts, and some pictures of the custom adapters you've fabbed up. This topic has come up so many times, and will again, that I vote it deserves a sticky.

 

Thanks for the Congrats! Is there a market for the kits? Have considered making conversion kits and instructions so anyone can do this and benifit from a brand new motor instead of just buying a used used motor.

Andy

 

Congrats! I am sure you could sell quite a few kits if you made them. Of course I'm sure you won't forget your friends at FTE when you do (and set a price).

 

Nice job! Please do post up some more info about what it took to do the job.

If my 5.4L ever grenades and the rest of my truck is still in good shape I might consider a 3V 5.4L & Torqshift swap. Some of the parts should be similar to your swap.

 

Keep in mind that this effort to accomplish this swap "from the ground up", with practically everyone saying that it was impossible, took my son and I close to a hundred hours to accomplish. If it is just to put a used motor in and get your truck running I would recommend doing that. I don't usually do as the average bear does and am usually the one who loves doing what others say is impossible. Just my nature. Thank God I have the technical knowledge of how engine management systems work and used to be a ASE Master Automotive Technician. Used to be but don't need the certifications any longer since retiring from from the military.

Retired at 41 and tinkering with my toys ever since!

 

It IS impossible with bolt-on parts

The fact that you made a throttle body adapter, welded a fuel rail together, and cobbled up a throttle linkage, is a big thing for some people.

Also, the check-engine light on WILL cause emissions inspections to fail in those states that care about those things.

Not poo-pooing everything you've done, but everyone has to realize this is NOT a simple bolt-it-in and go.

Congratulations on it, and I hope you do further work on it to get that check-engine light off. The default open-loop mode is what you're running in right now, I'd think.

 

Hey it's one of the members who said that this was completely impossible and now states "It IS impossible with bolt-on parts".

Not pissing on my parade?? Sure sounds that way throwing words in like cobbled and incinuating that it only runs in open loop in your reply. BTW, the install looks excellent and there is nothing cobbled or rigged up about it. I have a list of all the bolt on Ford parts and parts of my own fabrication, so yes it can be done as just a bolt together application provided you have my parts. It works. As for the service engine soon light being on I would only have to add an interupter to the drivers side camshaft gear and install the sensor over there. Either way it is a lot better than putting another 2V with 100K+ miles in and hoping for the best.

As for open loop, I seriously doubt that or it would set a code due to conflicting sensor signals not just a cam sensor circuit code. Why would the cam sensor keep it in open loop? If it was in open loop mode there would be a code or two set, I would think, agreed?

All in all considering the fact that I was told by many folks that it could not be done without swapping out 90% of the guts from a 2004 and up donor truck my son and I feel that we have achieved a hell of a task and kept it looking great at the same time. Looking into the engine compartment the install looks professional.

Thanks for the input and thanks for the sort of congrats

 

I think if the CEL is on, it's in open-loop. I don't know, I'd have to check with my Autotap Johnny Langton probably knows. It's definitely NOT going to pass emissions in California, New York, Massachusetts, or the other "green" states like Maine and Vermont.

One thing about saying it was impossible. It IS impossible - You can't put a 3-valve, fly-by-wire, entire engine, into a pre-05 truck, without a LOT of work that is beyond most people who visit here. PCM, tranny, ABS, airbag, dash cluster, everything, needs to be moved over.

And, most people ask about it because they want the extra power of the 3-valve. You don't have that, you have a slightly better version of the 2-valve.

In your case, where is the variable-plenum right now? Open or closed?

 

Wait...sorry to jump in here but what was installed? A complete 2006 3-valve V10 or just the short block?

 

As for what I understand, a 3-valve long-block with intake, but an adapter plate machined up to adapt the 2-valve throttle body to the 3-valve intake.

Still wondering what mode the variable-plenum defaults to without a PCM controlling it.

 

oh i thought he put 3V heads on a 2V block..

dont think i've followed this thread closely enuf...

 

For one thing I never claimed to even want to put all that drive by wire stuff in my truck. I have achieved exactly what I started out wanting to do. Putting a 3V engine into a 2V truck. Extremely low mileage engine in my 2000 truck. I couldn't do do that if I was to put another 2V in without breaking the bank.

I seriously doubt that the truck is running in open loop. Open loop: the engine is operated by the ECM without acknowledgement of the O2 sensors output "warm up" and richening the fuel air mixture. The CEL will light for a number of engine conditions and does not in anyway indicate strickly operating in open loop. I will bet that the truck would pass the sniff test for 2000 specs. My light is tripping because of the camshaft positioning sensor circuit faulty code even though reversing the two wires to the camshaft sensor fixed my starting issue. This is not a variable cam timing engine so I really don't know why Ford even installed a cam sensor.

Why do you state that I do not have the extra power of the 3V? I would bet that I do by how powerful this puppy is. Displacement has not changed and sure air flow has a LITTLE but that is the whole reason for a MAF in the intake system. Cubic feet of air is cubic feet of air no matter how you slice it. Mass of air regardless of how you wish to look at it is used by the ECM to modify injector pulse width thus compensating for whatever additional air is being moved, to a certain extent to keep the fuel mixture at optimum 14:1 ratio. Once that certain extent is passed there will be a lean exhaust signal sent to the ECM by the O2 sensors. Are you or anyone else willing to pay for a chassis dyno to prove that I do not have the 3V power? What is the 0-60 MPH time on a 3V compaired to a 2V?

There we go again with the variable plenum. I must admit this is the one thing that you had me really worried about when I first looked into doing this swap. Once I saw how the system functioned I realized that my worrying was wasted time. My variable plenum is variable according to throttle plate position. It opens further as the throttle is depressed further. Just as it should to accomidate the intended use in the drive by wire set up.

I must say that I never would have guessed that I would meet anyone on a forum with such a closed mind towards someone achieving something out of the norm. If everyone just sat around with their heads in the sand and just put factory and aftermarket parts on their cars / trucks we would never have had hot rods. What strikes me as being even more odd is that you are the moderator. I would figure to be open to new ideas without just shooting them down.

Either way, I am trucking again and trucking with a 3V power and low mileage reliabilty under my hood.

 

Yeah I probably wouldn't go to that much trouble... I would try to find a donor truck and swap everything over. More than likely it would be way cheaper to just buy a newer truck but if you could find a wrecked (but not too wrecked!) donor truck it would be fairly straight forward.

I wouldn't mind the extra power of the 3V but I would really like that Torqshift

Props to you for pulling it off though!