TOWING rookie question
#1
#2
#3
Trucks vary in weight according to the way they are optioned from the factory...options added = weight added to the completed truck. The max capacities that Ford advertises assume a stock base model truck with standard equipment and does not account for options added on the assembly line. The only way to know for certain how much capacity you have is to weigh your truck.
Also keep in mind that everything you put in the truck such as people, gear, fuel, etc., adds to your truck's weight and subtracts from your GCWR and GVWR. Additionally, the only way to achieve towing that weight is through the use of a weight distributing hitch. If you'll check your owner's manual, the Ford towing guide, and your hitch, they'll all tell you a weight for "load carrying" and a weight for "load distributing". These are two entirely different animals so do your research.
Here's a link to the Ford towing guide for the '09s. Page 29, specifically, has the information regarding the WD hitch:
http://www.sunrisefordfleet.com/pdf_...uides/2009.pdf
#6
#7
Does your truck have a receiver hitch on the back of it? If so, you're not going to be pulling anything with the bumper or you shouldn't be. Personally, I wouldn't pull anything with the bumper. If I didn't have a receiver hitch, I'd buy one, install it, and pull with it. The receiver hitch is rated for 11,000 pounds. If you have the Max Trailer Towing Package, you should have the following according to the '09 Ford Order Guide:
MAX TRAILER TOW PACKAGE (53M)
Availability:
• XL Regular and SuperCab
• XLT
• FX4 and Lariat SuperCrew
• FX4 and Lariat Super Cab w/145" W/B
Not Available with:
• 17" Machined Aluminum Wheels (647)
• 17" Machined Aluminum w/Painted Accents (64F)
• Flareside Box
Requires:
• 5.4L engine and auto transmission
• 3.73 rear axle ratio
• Trailer Tow Mirrors (54T/54P/54R/54X)
• XL requires 627 Heavy Duty Payload Package
• XLT SuperCab requires 627 Heavy Duty Payload Pkg or 145" WB
with 86X XLT Chrome Package.
• XLT SuperCrew requires 86X XLT Chrome Package.
Includes:
• Upgraded rear bumper
• Class IV trailer hitch receiver
• 7-pin wiring harness
• Upgraded radiator
• Auxiliary transmission oil cooler
• Upgraded rear springs (with 18" tires only)
• Heavy Duty front eye bushing
• 20:1 steering gear
Optional Equipment:
• Heavy duty 72-amp battery (59H)
Notice the bold red section. It says in the included equipment, Class IV trailer hitch receiver. This is what you should be using to tow. The receiver hitch, as stated before, is rated for a max towing capacity of 11,000 pounds. With this hitch in place, you have no reason to tow with the bumper.
MAX TRAILER TOW PACKAGE (53M)
Availability:
• XL Regular and SuperCab
• XLT
• FX4 and Lariat SuperCrew
• FX4 and Lariat Super Cab w/145" W/B
Not Available with:
• 17" Machined Aluminum Wheels (647)
• 17" Machined Aluminum w/Painted Accents (64F)
• Flareside Box
Requires:
• 5.4L engine and auto transmission
• 3.73 rear axle ratio
• Trailer Tow Mirrors (54T/54P/54R/54X)
• XL requires 627 Heavy Duty Payload Package
• XLT SuperCab requires 627 Heavy Duty Payload Pkg or 145" WB
with 86X XLT Chrome Package.
• XLT SuperCrew requires 86X XLT Chrome Package.
Includes:
• Upgraded rear bumper
• Class IV trailer hitch receiver
• 7-pin wiring harness
• Upgraded radiator
• Auxiliary transmission oil cooler
• Upgraded rear springs (with 18" tires only)
• Heavy Duty front eye bushing
• 20:1 steering gear
Optional Equipment:
• Heavy duty 72-amp battery (59H)
Notice the bold red section. It says in the included equipment, Class IV trailer hitch receiver. This is what you should be using to tow. The receiver hitch, as stated before, is rated for a max towing capacity of 11,000 pounds. With this hitch in place, you have no reason to tow with the bumper.
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#11
7,000 pounds shouldn't be a problem for your truck. Your's has the 3.73 gears with the E-locker. You have enough gear for it. It looks like the lowest rating for any FX-4 is around 8400 pounds. You shouldn't have any problems. Weigh your truck. You can go to a truck stop that has scales, a local farm supply / feed store, a quarry, etc. They can weigh it for you and then you can better determine how much you can tow.
#13
Your GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) is the total amount that the combination of your truck, cargo, people, and trailer can weigh according to the manufacturer's rating. If you weigh the truck complete with a full fuel tank, people, and gear you will most probably take with you on a towing trip, you will be able to subtract that amount from your GCWR to know how much capacity you have left over for a trailer. Trucks will have different weights based on the equipment they have from the factory such as factory options and any additional equipment you have installed after the purchase.
And, these are not ignorant questions. Everybody starts from scratch at some point and asking these type questions is the only way you'll gain the answers you're looking for. We've all been there at some point in time...no problem.
Read the Ford Towing Guide. There are a lot of answers in there and tons of good information. Some things to remember:
GVWR = Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. This is the maximum weight your truck is rated for which includes the truck, fuel, people, cargo, etc.
GCWR = Gross Combined Weight Rating. This is as described above...the maximum allowable amount of weight for the truck, trailer, cargo, people, etc. combined.
GAWR = Gross Axle Weight Rating. This is the maximum amount of weight that each axle can safely support (always check the rated load capacity for the tires as well).
Tire ratings and inflation. The tires are always a hot button topic. Remember that tires with a "P" designation are technically passenger car tires. Tires with an "LT" designation are technically light truck tires. The "LT" tires are typically rated for more weight capacity and have a higher ply count. Go by the manufacturer's ratings for inflation for both empty and trailer towing inflation.
Trailer brakes. If you are going to be towing 7000 pounds, you'll need to do it safely. Trailer brakes will be a must. The truck's brakes are designed to stop the truck and possibly a light trailer. They aren't designed to stop the truck and 7000 pounds of towed weight...at least not safely. Make sure your trailer has brakes and you have a good trailer brake controller. If you don't have the factory trailer brake controller, invest in a good aftermarket controller.
Weight Distributing hitch. If you don't have one, you may want to look at getting one. You may be alright without it but a WD hitch will help distribute the load over the chassis and both axles of the truck. It will help with reducing rear end sag of the truck as well. In reducing the rear sag, your headlights will also be more effective because they will be aimed more closely toward the factory adjustments.
Sway Control. You can get this with a number of the WD hitches on the market. If you are towing an enclosed trailer, you'll probably want to look at this as well. Not as important with an open trailer. There are a number of things that can induce sway but one of the more prevalent is the crosswinds you can get from passing tractor-trailers. These crosswinds can cause the trailer to sway and can be scary as heck. Sway control with a WD hitch can reduce this and there are some hitches that can all but eliminate it.
When you hook up, make sure you criss-cross the safety chains under the hitch to create a cradle of sorts. This will catch the hitch if it becomes seperated from the truck and keep it from hitting the ground. Check all of the lights (running lights, brake lights, etc.) before you take off. After about the first 20 or 30 miles of towing, re-check your load and re-tighten your tie-downs or chains. Also, re-check your hitch and associated hardware to make sure everything is still tight and correctly connected. Always keep an eye on your trailer tire inflation as well.
Some good things to keep with you in the trailer or truck: Flares and / or safety triangles, first-aid kit, spare tires for the trailer and truck, a good four way lug wrench, gloves, extra fluids for the truck, an assortment of simple tools such as screwdrivers (flat and phillips) and adjustable wrenches, an extra sleeve and hitch ball, dielectric grease, extra bulbs for truck and trailer, oil dry, fire extinguisher, tire guage, 12V compressor, and a tire plug kit. I'm sure there are more but these are the ones that I try to carry that I can remember right off.
Main thing is safety. If you are new to towing, practice towing, backing, turning, etc. in a large empty parking lot both empty and loaded. This will give you a better idea of how the truck and trailer will react when you are trying to maneuver before you get out on the road. Always follow the safety instructions in your owner's manual for the truck and the Towing Guide as well as any other guide that may be with the trailer, hitch, trailer brake controller, etc. Always check and maintain your tire inflation. And always observe the allowable weight ratings and stay inder them for the safest towing experience.
And, these are not ignorant questions. Everybody starts from scratch at some point and asking these type questions is the only way you'll gain the answers you're looking for. We've all been there at some point in time...no problem.
Read the Ford Towing Guide. There are a lot of answers in there and tons of good information. Some things to remember:
GVWR = Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. This is the maximum weight your truck is rated for which includes the truck, fuel, people, cargo, etc.
GCWR = Gross Combined Weight Rating. This is as described above...the maximum allowable amount of weight for the truck, trailer, cargo, people, etc. combined.
GAWR = Gross Axle Weight Rating. This is the maximum amount of weight that each axle can safely support (always check the rated load capacity for the tires as well).
Tire ratings and inflation. The tires are always a hot button topic. Remember that tires with a "P" designation are technically passenger car tires. Tires with an "LT" designation are technically light truck tires. The "LT" tires are typically rated for more weight capacity and have a higher ply count. Go by the manufacturer's ratings for inflation for both empty and trailer towing inflation.
Trailer brakes. If you are going to be towing 7000 pounds, you'll need to do it safely. Trailer brakes will be a must. The truck's brakes are designed to stop the truck and possibly a light trailer. They aren't designed to stop the truck and 7000 pounds of towed weight...at least not safely. Make sure your trailer has brakes and you have a good trailer brake controller. If you don't have the factory trailer brake controller, invest in a good aftermarket controller.
Weight Distributing hitch. If you don't have one, you may want to look at getting one. You may be alright without it but a WD hitch will help distribute the load over the chassis and both axles of the truck. It will help with reducing rear end sag of the truck as well. In reducing the rear sag, your headlights will also be more effective because they will be aimed more closely toward the factory adjustments.
Sway Control. You can get this with a number of the WD hitches on the market. If you are towing an enclosed trailer, you'll probably want to look at this as well. Not as important with an open trailer. There are a number of things that can induce sway but one of the more prevalent is the crosswinds you can get from passing tractor-trailers. These crosswinds can cause the trailer to sway and can be scary as heck. Sway control with a WD hitch can reduce this and there are some hitches that can all but eliminate it.
When you hook up, make sure you criss-cross the safety chains under the hitch to create a cradle of sorts. This will catch the hitch if it becomes seperated from the truck and keep it from hitting the ground. Check all of the lights (running lights, brake lights, etc.) before you take off. After about the first 20 or 30 miles of towing, re-check your load and re-tighten your tie-downs or chains. Also, re-check your hitch and associated hardware to make sure everything is still tight and correctly connected. Always keep an eye on your trailer tire inflation as well.
Some good things to keep with you in the trailer or truck: Flares and / or safety triangles, first-aid kit, spare tires for the trailer and truck, a good four way lug wrench, gloves, extra fluids for the truck, an assortment of simple tools such as screwdrivers (flat and phillips) and adjustable wrenches, an extra sleeve and hitch ball, dielectric grease, extra bulbs for truck and trailer, oil dry, fire extinguisher, tire guage, 12V compressor, and a tire plug kit. I'm sure there are more but these are the ones that I try to carry that I can remember right off.
Main thing is safety. If you are new to towing, practice towing, backing, turning, etc. in a large empty parking lot both empty and loaded. This will give you a better idea of how the truck and trailer will react when you are trying to maneuver before you get out on the road. Always follow the safety instructions in your owner's manual for the truck and the Towing Guide as well as any other guide that may be with the trailer, hitch, trailer brake controller, etc. Always check and maintain your tire inflation. And always observe the allowable weight ratings and stay inder them for the safest towing experience.
The following 2 users liked this post by powerstroke72:
#15
Thanks buddy! Actually, when I first responded to the OP, I didn't read the title well enough I guess...my bad. Just trying to take it from a beginner's standpoint. Please add anything else you can think of as well. I'm not an expert on it...just been towing since I was about 14 when it started on the farm next door with tractors, old trucks, wagons, etc.