How to bench test a starter motor
#1
How to bench test a starter motor
Hey Guys,
I'm working on a Motorcraft 11001 starter motor. I have removed the starter from the engine, which is a mid 60's straight six (240 or 300). I would like to know the proper way to test it. Can I just ground the body (of the starter) to the battery, and run the positive cable to the starter? The starter drive gear is kind of mangled, but the ring gear is pristine. I will be replacing the starter drive, as I believe it comes in the rebuild kit. Any advise is appreciated!
Thanks,
John
PS - I've checked the battery, all cables, all grounds are good, and replaced the solenoid. When it was in the truck, all I got was a clicking sound and the starter didn't turn. The truck has been sitting outside for at least 15 years... I want to turn the engine over to do a compression check. It turns freely with a wrench on the crankshaft nut.
I'm working on a Motorcraft 11001 starter motor. I have removed the starter from the engine, which is a mid 60's straight six (240 or 300). I would like to know the proper way to test it. Can I just ground the body (of the starter) to the battery, and run the positive cable to the starter? The starter drive gear is kind of mangled, but the ring gear is pristine. I will be replacing the starter drive, as I believe it comes in the rebuild kit. Any advise is appreciated!
Thanks,
John
PS - I've checked the battery, all cables, all grounds are good, and replaced the solenoid. When it was in the truck, all I got was a clicking sound and the starter didn't turn. The truck has been sitting outside for at least 15 years... I want to turn the engine over to do a compression check. It turns freely with a wrench on the crankshaft nut.
#2
I would use battery jumper cables. Clamp the black cable on the starter metal frame and battery NEG. Clamp the red to battery POS then BREIFLY touch the other end of it the starter power in terminal. It should spin free and not make any funny grinding noises.
Starter motors are series wound motors and control RPM with load, so no-load means no limit to the max RPM. It will self destruct at some point. Be sure your holding the starter good while testing as it will try to get away from you.
Most auto parts stores will test a starter for free. I would take it apart to look at the brushes. If the brushes are worn out it will not spin. If it not an easy repair I would just get a new starter with a good long warranty. Not that much difference in cost from the overhaul kit to repair your old one.
Jim
Starter motors are series wound motors and control RPM with load, so no-load means no limit to the max RPM. It will self destruct at some point. Be sure your holding the starter good while testing as it will try to get away from you.
Most auto parts stores will test a starter for free. I would take it apart to look at the brushes. If the brushes are worn out it will not spin. If it not an easy repair I would just get a new starter with a good long warranty. Not that much difference in cost from the overhaul kit to repair your old one.
Jim
#3
#4
JimsRebel,
Thanks for your help. I rebuilt it today and it seems to work fine. I also realized there is a lockout switch on the clutch. That's why it wouldn't turn over. Once I figured that out, things went better.
Now I need your help again. I need to jury rig a remote starter. I can't see the engine turn over from the cab. Can I run a cable from the battery positive to the starter terminal on the solenoid? Would that cause any other problems? do I need to use a heavy cable, or just a 16 gauge wire?
Do you know of a better way? I just want to operate the starter from the engine bay so I can see whats going on.
Thanks again for your help!
John
Thanks for your help. I rebuilt it today and it seems to work fine. I also realized there is a lockout switch on the clutch. That's why it wouldn't turn over. Once I figured that out, things went better.
Now I need your help again. I need to jury rig a remote starter. I can't see the engine turn over from the cab. Can I run a cable from the battery positive to the starter terminal on the solenoid? Would that cause any other problems? do I need to use a heavy cable, or just a 16 gauge wire?
Do you know of a better way? I just want to operate the starter from the engine bay so I can see whats going on.
Thanks again for your help!
John
#5
I just jump the solenoid with a flat blade screwdriver. First disconnect the wire from the 'S' terminal, then short the large battery terminal of the solenoid with the 'S' post directly, using the shaft of the screwdriver. This puts 12 volts on the 'S' terminal, as if you're turning the key to start. It works just the same. Just be careful the screwdriver doesn't slip and short 12 volts to the fender (ground).
#6
JimsRebel,
Now I need your help again. I need to jury rig a remote starter. I can't see the engine turn over from the cab. Can I run a cable from the battery positive to the starter terminal on the solenoid? Would that cause any other problems? do I need to use a heavy cable, or just a 16 gauge wire?
Do you know of a better way? I just want to operate the starter from the engine bay so I can see whats going on.
Thanks again for your help!
John
Now I need your help again. I need to jury rig a remote starter. I can't see the engine turn over from the cab. Can I run a cable from the battery positive to the starter terminal on the solenoid? Would that cause any other problems? do I need to use a heavy cable, or just a 16 gauge wire?
Do you know of a better way? I just want to operate the starter from the engine bay so I can see whats going on.
Thanks again for your help!
John
Just make sure the wire is the same size or bigger than what is currently on the "S" terminal. A push and hold switch works the best.
#7
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#8
Thanks gentlemen,
Now one more question: Am I correct in believing that the "I" terminal on the solenoid sends power to the coil when cranking? So if I disconnect that, the coil would be without power? Sometimes I don't want power to the coil when testing.
You guys are the best,
John
Now one more question: Am I correct in believing that the "I" terminal on the solenoid sends power to the coil when cranking? So if I disconnect that, the coil would be without power? Sometimes I don't want power to the coil when testing.
You guys are the best,
John
The coil will still be getting power from the resistor wire if the key is ON.
The wire on the "I" terminal bypasses the voltage dropping effect of the resistor wire to give full voltage to the coil during cranking.
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