Brian is right. The stock mirrors for '53-'56 trucks were the ones shown here. The chrome round ones that many of the FTE'ers use were not stock in '53-'56. They were stock on later model trucks but the piece in the door they bolted onto was the same so they fit. Yes, the stock mirrors would not fit your look you want.
I think the small convex stick on mirror is the best bet for helping you get better views from your passenger mirror.
Hello Sam, I built my mirrors using the original mounting location for my panel by using and modifying pontiac grand am electric mirrors that might be of interest to you. I used these mirrors only because they were ready accessable to me but you could do the same process to the ones of your choice. They are in my gallery but aren't completely finished yet.
very cool.. how far can you turn the head on the right side? can't tell from the picture..
nice shape tho..
Hello again Sam, the limits are controlled by the motor in the mirror itself, and guessing from a neutral point would be about 1/2" up/down, right/left. I haven't got them hooked up electrically yet as I'm still along way from that point. If you were to sit in any vehicle with electric operated mirrors you would be able to see how well they function. I've collected mirrors from various type vehicles to see if I can make a more stream lined pair, I don't mind the ones I have now but would like to make a pair that has a slimmer looking arm, a future project as the one I have now is taking up most of my time and one I'd like to get on the road some day,lol. John
I just thought I'd jump in and add a thought or two.
For my inside rear view mirror, I kept the tiny stock (51) mirror, which is about half the size of your "Effie" mirror. I like the convenience of the modern things, but I want to be able to keep features of my truck stock as well.
So, I went up to Auto Zone and they had a convex clip on rear view mirror that fits right over the little stock mirror. It's WONDERFUL! I can see every lane (even on some of our 8 lane wide junctions) out the back window with no problem. It really elliminated about 80% of my blind spots. I can see in the lane next to me to within about 10 feet of the tailgate on either side.
If I want the interior to look all pristine and stock, I can slip the thing off and throw it in the glove box.....
On my truck I got rid of the remaining small blind spot (low on each quarter - where the idiots in the rice burners always sit) by installing a second set of 4 inch clip ons. I have hinge pin curved mirrors for regular side view. The small clip ons are high up on the drip rail and they point down at the blind box on the quarter. They only look there and work great - I have NO blind spots.
Now I don't really think that scheme would look so hot with your more "modern looking" set up. But, with the convex clip on and a little fisheye stuck onto the passenger side mirror (or both for that matter), your blind spots would be gone.
Here is a picture of my exterior mirror set up just for the other folks in "older" pick-ups:
Here are two pictures of my inside rear view mirror. Note in the picture of the smaller stock mirror how bad the vision is.
In the picture of the larger convex mirror (which is polarized as well by the way) look at the tremendous difference of how much of my Ranger you can see out the back window and the glare reduction. Here's the pics:
Wow, was I lame in getting back to this thread to post a picture of that? Sorry!
Actually it is the radio deck I made to house my stereo and CDs. I will NOT cut a dash to put a radio or gauges in. I always keep the hard dash original. However, If I do add things (like the 51 car wind up clock I installed in the ash tray) I always keep an equivelant stock part to replace it with. I have another ash tray and stock glove box door (no logos) up in the parts box - all the same color, lock takes the same key and new rating plate on each.
The stereo deck is made of quarter sewn (sawed) red oak cut tothe exact dimensions of the bed boards. I polished some staineless steel bed strips/bolts and cut them to length. Finally made the front piece held in with countersunk pan head screws with finish washers. I mounted my tack in the center of it.
Works great! Here's a picture or two (one of the clock in the ash tray too -sounds weird but you'll see it looks pretty good!):