how do you prime the pump. i have fuel from the pump return line but nothing to the injector lines. i took the lines off the injectors and let them sit there as i turned the motor over with the starter for 10 to 15 minutes. not at the same time of course. when i had the return line line off of the injector pump it would build pressure.

incidently this pump was sitting off for roughly 2 years. it worked when i took it off. the one i replaced it than recently started throwing lots of smoke out of the tailpipe. i also replaced the fuel feed line up to the pump on the side of the motor, and the injectors. each little step the truck would work. but now it won't after replacing the injection pump.

 

The IP and Injectors will bleed themselves.

Ensure you have fuel to the IP (ie: at the filter schrader valve), then it will only take a few (2 or 3) 15-20 second cranks of the starter to bleed out the IP and Injectors.

If you had the injector lines off and were not getting fuel out of them in the length of time you state you cranked it, then either the IP is not getting fuel to it or the IP is bad!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

if what i think is a bleeding valve on the original IP (the one i'm using now). its not there. the other one has a valve you would turn with a 7/16 wrench. it faces the cab at top just above where the injector lines hook up. the one on there now has a smooth covering type of somthing.

the only true shrader valve is just above the fuel filter

 

There is no bleeder at the IP, No need for one!

And that is exactly where I stated it was.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

this is a what than, i circled it

 

That I cannot honestly answer, but a bleeder at that level would be useless, the fuel level is much higher than that in the pump ... the pump is full to the top and is bled via the return line that exits the top of the pump.

Give me a bit and I will see if I can find the exploded view of the pump for you, maybe that'll give you the info you seek!

I'll say it again, the IP and Injectors are self bleeding, there is no need to crack injector lines or open any part of the pump to allow air to escape, The air in the pump will exit via the return line out of the top of the pump, air in the injector lines will be pushed out via the injectors!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

is any restriction needed at the return line on the pump. it does throw fuel out the return but still nothing to the injectors

 

Sounds to me like the pump is bad...

I do not know the internals of the pump, but it seems to me I remember someone here on FTE mentioning that a pump that sets can seize something up inside... Not sure what it was or how to fix it.

I believe they pulled the top off to do it, It is a little tricky to get back together if I remember.

Might want to look through Dave Sponaugle's posts for the last 3 months or so, it was discussed within that time frame, He is one that would know!

Somebody that knows the internals will respond before long!

Sorry, Don't know what else to tell ya!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

The biggest thing that does is keep the govenor parts aligned.

Either the shaft to the IP head or the fuel shut off valve solenoid is fried on the IP.

What are you installing it on?
Do you see any numbers on the original IP you removed or the one you are installing?
What color was the smoke and when did you see it?

 

the one i took off is a
stanadyne
db2 /4746
model no & rpm
5649934 1813300c91

the original to me IP going back on.
remanufactored
m5 s4746fd
model no & rpm
8427189 cant see the rest

it smoked all the time white. more so when cold. it lost power to barely keep highway speeds when it got warmer. it = 87 f250. i thought i got bad fuel last winter as it happened all of a sudden than. i tried some cleaners and a few tanks of fuel. since it was cold i let it set that way untill it warmed up outside.

fuel shut off valve solenoid is located where. how do you check it?

 

it also has a very jumpy miss when it gets passed 2500 rpm. and struggles to get passed that. this is with the pump i took off

 

Dave,

Didn't you post an exploded view of the IP here not to long ago??
If you did, could you point me to it, I would like to bookmark it...
I've looked but am unable to find a good one and IIRC it was pretty clear!

Thanks

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I posted a picture of the fuel shut off solenoid linkage and directions for replacing the top cover.

Trying to find out info on the internal workings of the Stanadyne IP is difficult.
Most of the pictures are of very poor quality and the explanations are just like the pictures.

You would think after all this time, info would be all over the net, but if it is, I have been looking in the wrong places.

That is the right IP for an 87.
The originals had a plastic ring on the govenor that would break apart after years or service.
When that happened, you could not keep the injection in time, advanced one second and retarded the next.
That would explain the white smoke when it was running with retarded timing.

Usual indication of that would be black chunks in the return like fitting on the top of the IP.

 

Thanks Dave,

Bummer, I was hoping you knew where there was one.

It's amazing there isn't, I spent the better part of the day looking and all I could find was poor images or so small you couldn't see any detail.

I'm going to keep digging for all the info I can, so if you know of any I sure would appreciate pointers to it. Thanks.

I'd like to find something that gives the names to the components.

Soon as I get the house done I'll be ripping into one to see how it ticks for educational purposes.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

i never found anything good for explainations either. my ****** book is about as generac as can be. of course like a good info source it says leave to a certified mechanic, with a couple drawings done up by toddlers


thanks for the help so far