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cheap bass upgrade

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Old 05-14-2009, 08:32 PM
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cheap bass upgrade

I decided a while back that the bass in my Screw was lacking even though it had the subwoofer option. So I decided an upgrade was in order but I did not want to put in some bulky system that would be overkill anyways. My solution was to buy a kicker compVT 8" shallow mount subwoofer ($85 on amazon) and replace the factory one in the sealed box under the rear bench seat. I also removed the puny factory amp and replaced it with a rockford fosgate 400 watt that I had laying around from a previous truck. I located the amp where the jackstand used to be, but it'd be a lot cleaner looking behind the rear seats.

I was really lazy and did this in a series of stages so just take my advice and go straight to the last stage lol
Stage I: replaced sub but left puny amp. Not much better bass response.
Stage II: replaced little factory amp with 400 watt but left factory stereo. Noticiable gain in bass response but still shallow because of line converter for RCA patch cables to new amp.
Stage III: (today) replaced factory stereo with alpine head unit I had laying around. Very much improved over all sound quality but the sub output to the amp was a night and day difference in bass quality.

Well I guess for me it was a cheap upgrage because I had an aftermarket headunit and amp laying around, but for those audiophiles out there that expect more from the factory setup but dont want to go crazy it would be a cheap route to take also.
 
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Old 05-15-2009, 09:58 AM
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Thanks for the insight. I liked my original audio system, but could not help but replace the door speakers just because (with Infinity rear Kappa & front Reference series). Definitely was an improvement. My bass sounds good, but now I cannot help but wonder what it would be like replacing the factory sub, and wondered if I would need a new amp. Guess now I know. I have a new Pioneer head unit too, but have not had time to install it. I thought about installing a 5 or 6-channel amp behind the rear seat to drive all of the speakers.
 
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Old 05-15-2009, 12:21 PM
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Yea, I bought my truck pre-owned and the previous owner had pioneer speakers in the doors so I don't know how the factory quaility really was. I took those speakers out and put my alpine type R in just to make the truck "my own" lol. I'm happy with my setup right now: apline headunit, alpine door type R door speakers, kicker compVT sub and rockford fosgate amp. LOL, everything except for the sub came out of my '97 f-150 that was totaled.
It's loud enough for me, I've got tinnitus bad in both ears so I think this will be the extent of my audio upgrades lol.

That 5-6 channel amp would be a good way to go.
 
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Old 05-15-2009, 01:57 PM
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I was not so fortunate to have the factory box.. So I had a custom one made to fit one JL 10.
 
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Old 05-15-2009, 08:05 PM
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what size speakers are in the doors? the look like 5x8 or something, kinda an oddball looking size, or maybe they are 6x9 and just look smaller mounted in the door? i want to replace the factory ones and would like to know what to replace them with, will 6x9 fit? (assuming they are not 6x9's already, which i don't think they are!)
Thank you in Advance!
Rik
 
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Old 05-15-2009, 08:40 PM
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They are 6x8. You can also use some 6-1/2" and 5-1/4" rounds. The factory sub is 8".
 
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Old 05-16-2009, 01:45 AM
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yep 5x7 or 6x8 both will work
 
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Old 05-16-2009, 10:43 AM
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5x7's is the factory spec. Not all 6x8's will fit in without slight modification to the mounting location. Make sure you use a baffel as the insides of the doors are not water tight. Don't get me started on cross-overs inside the doors...
 
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Old 05-17-2009, 11:34 AM
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thank you for the input, what do you mean by baffles? and what about crossovers??
Rik
 
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Old 05-17-2009, 03:35 PM
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A baffle is basically an enclosure for the speaker...the stockers come in plastic baffles. Sometimes you can/should reuse these if your new speaker will fit. Crossovers are used with component speakers to separate the hi/low frequencies for the tweeters and woofers. Because of the design of the door to frame boot (or lack there of...its now a connector and not the old style rubber tube) it's almost impossible to house the cross-over in the cab. Therefore, most just put the X-over in door so they don't have to run four separate lines through the door connector. However, X-overs really don't like to get wet and they need ventilation. PITA.
 
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