Well, I just replaced the D50 TTB frame bushings (2) on my ’86 and thought I would share my experience for anyone considering taking on this job.

I did the replacement without removing any suspension components because I didn’t want to deal with hubs/spindles/axles at this time. Needless to say I woke up this morning sore all over including my throat from cussing so much!

Here's the process:

Raise the truck and support it on jack stands placed under the frame rail just behind the aft leaf spring hanger (under cab).

I used 2 floor jacks to support the TTB arm as I removed the retaining bolt from the bushing. This takes some trial and error to find the sweet spot to remove shear force from the bolt. If you’re lucky the bolt will not be frozen in the bushing; mine weren’t. I’m thinking since they are under the oil pan, they benefit from any oil leaks…

Perform the above process on the other TTB arm
I found that both arms needed to be unbolted to gain access to the bushings.

Remove the bushings: first I used a hole saw to remove the rubber. Since the saw wasn’t deep enough to go all the way through, I had to finish them off with a drill bit. This step was easy.
The metal sleeves were relatively easy too (if you’re good with a cold chisel and hammer while lying on your side…)
I cut the lip off the Drivers side arm bushing and split it while pushing it out rearward. The passenger side arm bushing was driven out in the same fashion, but I did not cut the lip off. Work from behind pushing it forward.

I procrastinated for a while on building a press to install the new bushings; I tried to install the driver’s side arm bushing in with a hammer/socket and realized I was just wasting time. I broke down and went to work designing a tool.

Since there isn’t a loot of room, I built a press out of ˝” steel plate. Basically, I made two squares (2 ˝” x 2 ˝”?), cut a large hole (1 1/2”?, just larger than the bushing itself) in the center of one of them and a ˝” hole in the other. I took the remnant from the large hole and welded it back in place above the plate (to form a cup deep enough to accept the bushing stick-out). I chose to thread the center hole in the cup with a ˝-13 tap. I made another square out of 3/16” plate and cut a larger hole in it to allow it to press on the bushing lip. I finished it off with a 6” piece of ˝-13 stainless steel all thread, a couple of flat washers and a nut. I’ll post a pic if anyone wants to see it.

I deburred the TTB bushing holes with a small round file and used the press to install them.

Now for the fun part, one at a time, raise each TTB arm into place and align the bolt hole. I ended up using two floor jacks, a bottle jack, a large pry bar and a cold chisel (as a wedge) This is when the cussing starts…

Once I succeeded in getting the bolts through, I used some Red Lock-Tight and torqued them down (the book says 104-149ft lbs)

That’s it, as for carnage… one blood blister from smacking thumb with hammer, one small cut on right hand and skin worn off of right elbow (laying on concrete hammering) I’m satisfied with the results, it didn’t remove all of the slop but did improve steering quite a bit. Next up, springs and shackles… Anybody got any advice?

 

well dont hit youre thumb with a hammer for one.. j/k
too be honest i dont have any advice for you but i would love it if you kept this post updated so i know how to do this stuff when i need to one day. its people like you who post this **** up that save our thumbs when we get to it
so thanks for saving my thumbs!

 

I'm unfortunately thinking of doing stuff like this to my front end, too, so thanx
for the description....

 

I searched for an in-place bushing replacement procedure some time ago and never could find a concise description how to perform the work without disassembling the entire front end. So, I figured I would go ahead and "document it" while it was still fresh in my head. I definitely see a value in this type of thread since we're all going to have to do this stuff eventually, might as well share the knowledge. Sorry no pics though, photog was off duty...

What I didn't include is that my thumb got wacked with the Drilling hammer 4 or 5 times; not a lot of room under there and my aim got a little sketchy when my hammer arm was ready to give up. The air chisel is an option since it is easier on the arms but it can make a mess of surrounding metal. Not to mention pissing off the neighbors. This job would be much easier on a lift. One tool that would have been real useful is a jack screw type of spreader that could be used to force the lower ball joints outward away from each other to aid in aligning the bushing /bolt holes.
I will take some pics of my bushing installer and post um up, I’m not quite sure my literal description does it justice.

 

Here's a couple pics of the installer tool I made. There isn't a lot of room to do this job so a small press is required to work around the frame/brackets/suspension. Like I said, I dragged my feet on making this thing so no AutoCad drawings, no measurements, hell it's not even square! Strictly an eyeball job; cut, drill, weld and tap. Well I did deburr it...

 

Got the job done didn't it ... isn't that what really matters!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

My favorite part about making repairs is making the tools to do them with.

 

I had TTB problems on my '86 F-250. Just plain wore out bushings and one o the ball joints was bad. Easier solution than dealing with TTB nonsense is a Dana 60 swap. Bolts right in. Problem solved.

Thought this thread was about the front shackle bushings. ine probably need to be replaced, but not sure if I wanna bother with that aggrivation on the flimsy A shackles or convert to a regular straight shackle, possibly convert to rear shackle and be done with it. Fron suspension on the '80-'96 trucks really was junk. Not one of Ford's better ideas.