It appears that my 2001 4X4 Expedition w/ 5.4 engine has the diode one way clutch failure per TSB 01-13-5.

So I've ordered a Ford transmission and TQ from the dealer [$2200] and am getting ready to install it.

What I'd like to know is do I need the shop manual to do it or is the removal and replacement straight foward?

I can raise the truck about 30" thanks to qty 4 12 ton jack stands and a 8 ton air truck end/frame lift.

I've searched here for a R&R post but haven't found anything, although lots of guys seem to have done this.

Any suggestions and tips will be appreciated and I'll share info as the job progresses.

 

I have the factory service manual for the 2000s. I'll copy/paste some info for you.

 

Looking forward to it!

 

I own a tranny shop & would never think about doing it 25-30" off the ground. Good luck.

 

Here ya go. I had to finish up one of our service vehicles as well as change the oil in the forklift so sorry for the wait. I have the removal, installation and the specifications in PDF format.

4R100 Removal

4R100 Installation

4R100 Specifications

Edit: It would be a VERY good idea to purchase a transmission jack for the job. I believe you can get them from Harbor Freight rather reasonably. I wouldn't attempt to horse around with a floor jack like you can with a manual tranny.

 

Thank you, CMK!!

I'll study these in a little while.



In regard to being only able to raise the vehicle ~30" what are the biggest obsticles?

 

Like CMK said, you need a tranny jack. Those units are big & heavy...especially with the torque converter still in it. So removing the bellhousing bolts & trying to support the unit would be a nightmare without the proper jack. Plus make sure you drain all the fluid out of the converter & unit. It'll make the unit a lot lighter plus a lot less mess.

 

I just recently pulled the 4R100 on my SuperDuty by myself in the driveway with it on the ground. Biggest obstacles...it's a big freakin' transmission. My truck is lifted 4.5" and I jacked up the passenger front tire and still couldn't get the trans out from under the truck on the transmission jack. Even with a transmission jack make sure you secure it to the jack somehow...IT IS HEAVY. Overall it wasn't bad and I managed to get a new flywheel in and get it up and running. That said...I will do the transmission again when it finally goes out. Just take your time and be careful. Crawl under there and look at how you are going to access all the bolts and if you have the correct tools. I used a lot of extensions and joints and flex head ratcheting wrenches.

 

I'm thinking of the possibility of a Harbor Freight hydraulic table used as a transmission jack.

I used one to change the axles on a trailer a yr ago. Clamped the torsion bar to the table, rolled it under, centered each one and raised the table to hold them in place while I drilled the frame and did alignment. Used the 30" 12 Ton HF jackstands to support the trailer too.

Of course the 4R100 is much heavier.

My biggest worry looking at the PDF's CMK sent is R&R the exhaust system.

The truck is not very rusted underneath, even at 90,000+ miles, but wrestling with the exhaust system under there isn't something I look forward to.

My buddy a few bldgs down has 4 surplus truck "tire" post jacks. You roll one to each tire and they are synchronized as they raise the vehicle to 5 or 6 feet. They are an option, altho I'd like to do the job w/o any outside help. Each one is 8 tons capacity IIRC.

 

MisterCMK, would you link R&R info for the transfer case and exhaust system?

«Section 303-06»
«Section 308-07B»
«Section 308-07B»


«Section 309-00»

Also, «Transmission Fluid Drain and Refill».

 

I'll get them for you this afternoon.

 

Exhaust

Starter

Transfer Case Removal

4R100 Drain and Refill

For the refill of the tranny you are going to need 16 or 18 quarts. Fill it with 13 and then start the truck and add the remainder until it is full slowly. You'll want to make sure that you run it through all the gears and make sure the fluid gets circulated through the transmission.

Let me know if you need anything else. Make sure and take some pics for us all.

Oh and with the exhaust, use an impact on it. Don't bother trying to not break fasteners. If you snap them off just replace them. You'll spend more time trying to ease them off than you will simply replacing bolts.

 

Thank you!

I'll take pix and may USPO mail the memory card to you to put onto your site.

Transmission should be here middle of next week.

A question re the torsion bars... In the transfer case removal procedure it says to remove them, but in the transmission part they aren't mentioned. Is it just understood they have to be removed?

The tools shown for removing them, am I going to have to locate them, and it isn't clear how they are used...

I'm pretty sure from reading your PDF's that the transfer case has to be removed in any event.

I'm thinking of removing it first to lighten the weight or would that be a bad idea?

 

It looks to me like the torsion bar tool is used as a puller to pull the torsion bar from the 'socket' at it's front.

 

You have to remove the torsion bars - you need a special tool to push them in so as to remove the pressure off the bolt assembly which you then unscrew. The tool has a long bolt in the center and 2 "hooks" - one on each side of it. I bought mine several years ago and it was around $40 or so. Here's a tip: spray the front sockets where the torsion bars sit in with WD-40 or some other penetrating lubricant - overnight if possible. Be prepared with a sledge hammer and a piece of pipe to knock them out from the front end if they're rusted. And yes, you have to remove the transfer case first - it weighs around 150 lbs.

I have the Ford tech manuals and followed the process step-by-step. Very easy - just a bear to get to some tight places. Alot of extensions and different size ratchets. It's frustrating, but you learn alot.

No, I didn't use a tranny jack - I used a wheeled floor jack to remove the tranny which I modified by cutting a 2'x3' sheet of 3/4" plywood with 2x4s screwed in place to form a "cradle" to hold the tranny and mounted it to the jack through the center hole. I held it in place with a carriage bolt, nut, and a big washer. (Poor man's alternative to a tranny jack.) I changed the tranny in my driveway using 3-ton jack stands.

Let us know how you do or whether you need help. Good luck!