brake pedal switch information.
#1
brake pedal switch information.
Does anybody have information about the brake pedal switch. I cant find anything about it.
I have to press the brake pedal very hard to turn off cruise control or put my truck into 4low. I would like to check the switch out but cant find out how It works etc. I've checked the fuse. I appreciate it.
I have to press the brake pedal very hard to turn off cruise control or put my truck into 4low. I would like to check the switch out but cant find out how It works etc. I've checked the fuse. I appreciate it.
#2
#3
Thanks for that info. I'll see what is up w/ mine.
#4
My cruise requires a full moment of brake to cut out, the slightest fast tap is usually ignored by the system. The shifter has a solenoid just under the cluster that keeps you from taking it out of park unless it's powered up. I used to have some trouble with 4lo too, I found that putting it in neutral and bumping the steering wheel took off enough bind to go into 4lo quick and easy.
The brake would join all of these, but may not be the problem.
The brake would join all of these, but may not be the problem.
#5
The Brake Pedal Position (BPP) switch is two switches in one. There should be 5 wires coming from it. One switch is a single pole that operates the brake lights. The other is a double pole that sends a signal to the PCM (and cruise control module if you have one) to do things like break the cruise control, allow 4WL operation, etc.
I just replaced mine recently because it was doing exacly what yours is. Once I replaced it, an extremely light tap disengages the cruise. It's cheap and easy to replace.
Ford Part #F87Z13480AA. $13.44+shipping from Ed the Parts Guy (www.ftepartsguy.com). Or $24.89 MSRP from your local dealer.
I just replaced mine recently because it was doing exacly what yours is. Once I replaced it, an extremely light tap disengages the cruise. It's cheap and easy to replace.
Ford Part #F87Z13480AA. $13.44+shipping from Ed the Parts Guy (www.ftepartsguy.com). Or $24.89 MSRP from your local dealer.
#6
My cruise requires a full moment of brake to cut out, the slightest fast tap is usually ignored by the system. The shifter has a solenoid just under the cluster that keeps you from taking it out of park unless it's powered up. I used to have some trouble with 4lo too, I found that putting it in neutral and bumping the steering wheel took off enough bind to go into 4lo quick and easy.
The brake would join all of these, but may not be the problem.
The brake would join all of these, but may not be the problem.
dchamberlain, thanks brother for the info. I checked mine out the other day, and plunger seems to move fine w/ the brake pedal. I just think something is wrong w/ the BPP. I'll probally just buy it from the dealer unless the partsguys does COD. Its hard to find companies that does COD anymore, but anyway $25 and the problem gone isn't bad at all.
I had a guy monday evening that suppose to work at Ford to tell me to put a volt meter on the wires. That I would have a solid hot wire and one wire would go cold when the brake was pressed and the rest would be hot when the brake pedal would be pressed. Like I told him. That does me no good> When I pull over to test it the BPP might work right then.
#7
With what you're describing, I'd say there is at least a 90% chance that it's the BPP. Trying to test it with a meter would be a pain, but if you'd like, I can get you a wiring diagram. Given that it's most likely the BPP, and the thing is pretty cheap, I'd just replace it and see if it fixes the problems.
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