PMR build date and HP ?'s
#46
05-04-2009, 01:00 PM
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 458
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Greg and I discussed this very issue with the 2000 motor I just picked up. The build date is 2/00 and I immediately pulled the inspection plug to find out. It's got forged rods. Greg's right, they did some test mid to late 00 and went full production towards the end of 01.
As for hp stickers on the valve covers and the injectors underneath them, I thought my findings were interesting this past weekend. The 2000 motor I've got has 225hp on the vc sticker and DOES NOT have a long lead AE injector in #8. But my 02 has 250hp on the vc and does have the LL. I just thought it was interesting with the differences.
You'll get 100 different answers from 100 different people on this question so take it for what it's worth.
I talked with Jody from DP about this very thing when we were live tuning. He said that stage 2's would be just fine if all you're wanting to do is top the 400hp mark. Single shots will use less oil than the stock splits so as long as your pump is still strong, you probably wouldn't need to upgrade. With a van turbo or a 38R, you'd be in the low 400's. That's what he recommended to me. There's alot of people that are running and love hybrids. They're versitle, can be used for a tow vehicle, racing, daily driving, etc. But EVERYTHING relies on the tuning. If there's a tiny glitch, hickup, anything in the tuning that could present itself down the road, you could be up a creek. I specifically asked Jody about my concerns and he said they were valid. BTW, he's running straight B codes in his personal truck, not hybrids. I specifically asked him about that as well.
Here's my 1 of 100 different responses to your questions on mods to get to 400. This comes from many talks with the guys at BTS and with Jody when he was riding shotgun in my pickup.
***Stage 2's are plenty capable of getting you there. The up-pipes and headers will get you NO additional hp gains. Like Kris and others have said, the headers are just for astetics/sound. It's a good idea to put the bellowed up-pipes in when doing the turbo swap. That way they're done and you won't have to worry about leaks anymore. As for the turbo, a van turbo (that's what I'm running), or a 38R might get you a little more but there's the addtional price. I wouldn't worry about pushrods, valves springs, or headstuds if you're just wanting to get to 400. Headstuds aren't a bad idea if you've got full access to the top of the motor, like if it's out of the truck. That's why I'm adding them just cause I can get to them while the motor's on the stand. I've been told that I really don't need them though. There are several pickups running stage 2 Singles with stock valve springs and pushrods and are in the high 400's to low 500's. They do have headstuds though. If you're HPOP has some miles on it and isn't as strong as it once was, then I'd look at a Dieselsite Adreneline single or a Terminator modified single. Better than stock, not overkill, and won't break the bank. For a chip, look at DP, Tony Wildman, PHP, or BTS. All 4 are top notch and great options.
I'd also recommend a built tranny to handle the extra HP. A valve body from JW or BTS will help, but you'd still be running a stock tranny other than that. Sooner or later, it's gonna go!
Save the money on the things that you WON'T really benefit from if 400 is all you want and put it towards a built tranny.
Sorry for all the
and the
but that's where I stand!
As for hp stickers on the valve covers and the injectors underneath them, I thought my findings were interesting this past weekend. The 2000 motor I've got has 225hp on the vc sticker and DOES NOT have a long lead AE injector in #8. But my 02 has 250hp on the vc and does have the LL. I just thought it was interesting with the differences.
You'll get 100 different answers from 100 different people on this question so take it for what it's worth.
I talked with Jody from DP about this very thing when we were live tuning. He said that stage 2's would be just fine if all you're wanting to do is top the 400hp mark. Single shots will use less oil than the stock splits so as long as your pump is still strong, you probably wouldn't need to upgrade. With a van turbo or a 38R, you'd be in the low 400's. That's what he recommended to me. There's alot of people that are running and love hybrids. They're versitle, can be used for a tow vehicle, racing, daily driving, etc. But EVERYTHING relies on the tuning. If there's a tiny glitch, hickup, anything in the tuning that could present itself down the road, you could be up a creek. I specifically asked Jody about my concerns and he said they were valid. BTW, he's running straight B codes in his personal truck, not hybrids. I specifically asked him about that as well.
Here's my 1 of 100 different responses to your questions on mods to get to 400. This comes from many talks with the guys at BTS and with Jody when he was riding shotgun in my pickup.
***Stage 2's are plenty capable of getting you there. The up-pipes and headers will get you NO additional hp gains. Like Kris and others have said, the headers are just for astetics/sound. It's a good idea to put the bellowed up-pipes in when doing the turbo swap. That way they're done and you won't have to worry about leaks anymore. As for the turbo, a van turbo (that's what I'm running), or a 38R might get you a little more but there's the addtional price. I wouldn't worry about pushrods, valves springs, or headstuds if you're just wanting to get to 400. Headstuds aren't a bad idea if you've got full access to the top of the motor, like if it's out of the truck. That's why I'm adding them just cause I can get to them while the motor's on the stand. I've been told that I really don't need them though. There are several pickups running stage 2 Singles with stock valve springs and pushrods and are in the high 400's to low 500's. They do have headstuds though. If you're HPOP has some miles on it and isn't as strong as it once was, then I'd look at a Dieselsite Adreneline single or a Terminator modified single. Better than stock, not overkill, and won't break the bank. For a chip, look at DP, Tony Wildman, PHP, or BTS. All 4 are top notch and great options.
I'd also recommend a built tranny to handle the extra HP. A valve body from JW or BTS will help, but you'd still be running a stock tranny other than that. Sooner or later, it's gonna go!
Save the money on the things that you WON'T really benefit from if 400 is all you want and put it towards a built tranny.
Sorry for all the
and the but that's where I stand!
...i know you guys said the up pipes leak but do the stock manifolds leak or no??
#47
05-04-2009, 01:33 PM
Fleet Mechanic
They can. I've heard of it, but never seen it. I don't think it's very common though. It's WAY more common to have leaky i/c and manifold boots. Between those and the stock up-pipe leaks, that is where alot of boost pressure is lost.
You can just replace the stock donuts on the uppies but they'll leak eventually again. Way cheaper to do the donuts, but a PITA if you've got to keep pulling the turbo and related parts to fix them. I'd also recommend doing the CCV mod to get the oil vapors from the vc out of the engine airflow. At the same time, replace ALL your boots - the 4 intercooler and 2 manifold. That way you KNOW there is zero contamination from there on out and provides a great seal. Use something like brake cleaner on the connection areas of the manifold, piping, etc to make sure those surfaces are free of oil residue as well.
#49
05-04-2009, 03:25 PM
Lead Driver
My manifolds have the rusty look too, but they've seen some weather over the years and they are cast iron, so they'll brown up pretty good. So far (just turned 178K) no manifold leaks. I agree with stokersace, I have seen/heard almost nothing of exhaust manifold issues compared to other leaking areas. I haven't checked my up-pipes (if I don't see a leak it's not there, right 
), but I do have some weepage at my turbo pedestal that will need some attention eventually, and I'll probably do the bellowed up-pipes when I have all that ripped out anyway. I have recently replaced my 4 engine intake boots and two intercooler boots since all the CCV oil has broken them down and they were sooting up the intake and surrounding area pretty good (especially the 4 connecting the intercooler piping). I used the ones from Dieselsite.com and am very happy with them. Those boots are monsters compared to the OEM ones! They were not easy to get on, but they aren't going anywhere!
), but I do have some weepage at my turbo pedestal that will need some attention eventually, and I'll probably do the bellowed up-pipes when I have all that ripped out anyway. I have recently replaced my 4 engine intake boots and two intercooler boots since all the CCV oil has broken them down and they were sooting up the intake and surrounding area pretty good (especially the 4 connecting the intercooler piping). I used the ones from Dieselsite.com and am very happy with them. Those boots are monsters compared to the OEM ones! They were not easy to get on, but they aren't going anywhere!
#50
05-05-2009, 10:36 AM
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 458
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#51
05-05-2009, 10:42 AM
Fleet Mechanic
I went with the same boots from DieselSite when I did my CCV mod and love them. Heavy duty and work really well. They're not the cheapest in the world, but you shouldn't have to replace them again.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rjrandy96
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
9
08-29-2016 05:27 AM
