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  #61  
Old 04-04-2010, 11:04 AM
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Thanks, looks like I'll be getting an ICP sensor.

Here is an illustration that I pulled out of the hanes manual that shows the cover I removed along with bolt locations. Like I said this made alot of room to pull the bolts out and beats the crap out of pulling the whole HVAC

Click the image to open in full size.
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  #62  
Old 04-04-2010, 12:22 PM
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Hopefully you won't have any problems with them at 225. By going past 210 with the new lube you brought the studs that much closer to their yield point. It will probably be okay, don't loosen and retorque them at this point.
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  #63  
Old 09-06-2010, 02:10 PM
newf350 newf350 is offline
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hubler13f How did you get the drivers side rear bolt out? I tried jacking still can't get it out.

Thanks
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  #64  
Old 09-06-2010, 02:16 PM
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Some remove the motor mount and lower the engine, others jack the trans way up to gain clearance. I think some trimming of the firewall insulation may be required.
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  #65  
Old 09-06-2010, 09:07 PM
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I noticed when torquing the studs nuts that some studs extend pass the nut more than others. Is this normal? I tighten them down as much as possible with an allen key before torquing.
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  #66  
Old 09-06-2010, 09:46 PM
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hubler13f How did you get the drivers side rear bolt out? I tried jacking still can't get it out.

Thanks
It's been a little while and I can't remember exactly, but I think I just unbolted both motor mounts from the frame and jacked up on the driver side until I had clearence.
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  #67  
Old 09-17-2010, 01:12 PM
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This sounds like a big job but I think I would rather do my own than pay for 30 hours of shop time, even if it takes me a few days. Which part of the engine to you place the jack under? I assume you only need to jack on side at a time, even if replacing head gaskets?
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  #68  
Old 09-21-2010, 12:52 AM
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This sounds like a big job but I think I would rather do my own than pay for 30 hours of shop time, even if it takes me a few days. Which part of the engine to you place the jack under? I assume you only need to jack on side at a time, even if replacing head gaskets?
I wouldn't pay someone to do it for me. I used a 2x4 and jacked off of the edge of the oil pan where the bolts run through. Another thing you can try is loostening the mounting bolts on the tailshaft of the tranmission to give you a little more movement.
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  #69  
Old 10-08-2010, 11:59 AM
BarnieTrk BarnieTrk is offline
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Originally Posted by DSMMH View Post
The OEM bolts will stretch over time that is a fact because they are undersized and are exposed to a very harsh environment... Studs will not stretch, therefore, they significantly reduce my risk of major engine issues down the road. If that were not true, everyone would not be replacing OEM headbolts with ARP studs. DSMMH
DSMMH & everyone else,

I'm no seasoned mechanic, but I try to pay attention to those that are.

I haven't read every thread regarding the reasons why folks replace OEM head bolts, but from what it sounds like to me is that the OEM bolts are not as strong as they should have been and so they stretch over time and allow the head to lift which allows the head gaskets (HG) to loose their seal & blow at the least desireable time.

1) If a 6.0L has 100K miles on it, but is NOT experiencing any obvious HG issues, couldn't a guy just check or re-torque the head bolts to make up for any amount of bolt stretch that may have occured in the 100K miles - or would the OEM bolts likely snap in half if re-torqued?

2) Wen installing studs, do you have to hold the stud from turning when torqueing their nuts? Otherwise, if the studs were allowed to turn when tightening the nut, wouldn't the stud want to bottom out in the bolt bore and possibly put stress on the block, potentially to the point of cracking the block in time?

3) Does anyone install studs into the block using any thread locker material?

4) Lastly, once studs are installed, if you want/need to remove a cylinder head later in time, do you have to remove the studs out of the block to allow the head to lift off - as I'm thinking the cylinder head can't be lifted clear with the studs in place, am I correct?

Thanks in Advance for any & all advice/opinions, Guys!

BarnieTrk
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  #70  
Old 10-08-2010, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarnieTrk View Post
DSMMH & everyone else,

I'm no seasoned mechanic, but I try to pay attention to those that are.

I haven't read every thread regarding the reasons why folks replace OEM head bolts, but from what it sounds like to me is that the OEM bolts are not as strong as they should have been and so they stretch over time and allow the head to lift which allows the head gaskets (HG) to loose their seal & blow at the least desireable time.

1) If a 6.0L has 100K miles on it, but is NOT experiencing any obvious HG issues, couldn't a guy just check or re-torque the head bolts to make up for any amount of bolt stretch that may have occured in the 100K miles - or would the OEM bolts likely snap in half if re-torqued?
Re-torquing the stock bolts would be wasted effort IMO. The fasteners need to be lubed properly to get accurate torque measurements, so unless you take each one out and lube it, re-torquing could just cause more problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BarnieTrk View Post
2) Wen installing studs, do you have to hold the stud from turning when torqueing their nuts? Otherwise, if the studs were allowed to turn when tightening the nut, wouldn't the stud want to bottom out in the bolt bore and possibly put stress on the block, potentially to the point of cracking the block in time?
You tighten the stud finger tight to the bottom of the hole in the block, then install the head and torque the nuts. The lube between the nut and stud ensures the nut is tightened without much torque transferring to the stud and causing it to tighten further.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BarnieTrk View Post
3) Does anyone install studs into the block using any thread locker material?
A thread sealer/locker is used when installing the studs in the block, but between the stud and nut only a good assembly lube is used to ensure consistent torque values.

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Originally Posted by BarnieTrk View Post
4) Lastly, once studs are installed, if you want/need to remove a cylinder head later in time, do you have to remove the studs out of the block to allow the head to lift off - as I'm thinking the cylinder head can't be lifted clear with the studs in place, am I correct?
With the cab on, the studs would have to be removed, but with the cab off the heads can be lifted off the studs.
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  #71  
Old 10-08-2010, 01:24 PM
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Just to add, the bolts are engineered to stretch and that is largely how the torque value is determined. The bolts actually have some 'spring' (for lack of a better term) or elasticity to them to maintain the clamping force. When you re-torque critical components that weren't specifically engineered for re-torqueing; you run the risk of getting to or surpassing the elasticity of the bolt and sometimes causing them to fail.
Probably more than you wanted to know but it can be important.
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  #72  
Old 10-08-2010, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarnieTrk View Post
1) If a 6.0L has 100K miles on it, but is NOT experiencing any obvious HG issues, couldn't a guy just check or re-torque the head bolts to make up for any amount of bolt stretch that may have occured in the 100K miles - or would the OEM bolts likely snap in half if re-torqued?

From everything I've read the stock bolts are tighten to yeild meaning that when they are fully tightened they are bottomed out so torquing them further would not do you any good. it would just end up stretching and weakening them further.
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  #73  
Old 10-08-2010, 03:50 PM
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Here is some info on the TTY bolts that are used in the stock 6.0 It is copyright so here is the site.Torque-To-Yield (TTY) Cylinder Head Bolt Installation & Removal Tips
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  #74  
Old 10-08-2010, 04:34 PM
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Thanks for sharing the link, Brickie.
Thanks to all the others for your comments as well.

Hmmmm,,,,,,assuming the head bolts are tightened properly and to the correct 'stretch' when they are originally installed at the factory why then are these bolts becoming loose or stretching more over time to allow the head gasket issues - maybe it's the hot/cold operation cycles and the combustion chamber pressures pushing on the heads?

If so, it seems that FoMoCo should have put out a recall on the faulty head bolts........

BarnieTrk
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  #75  
Old 10-08-2010, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarnieTrk View Post
Thanks for sharing the link, Brickie.
Thanks to all the others for your comments as well.

Hmmmm,,,,,,assuming the head bolts are tightened properly and to the correct 'stretch' when they are originally installed at the factory why then are these bolts becoming loose or stretching more over time to allow the head gasket issues - maybe it's the hot/cold operation cycles and the combustion chamber pressures pushing on the heads?

If so, it seems that FoMoCo should have put out a recall on the faulty head bolts........

BarnieTrk
I have heard that there was some trouble with the robots that torqued the head bolts at the factory in some early trucks.The turbo can over boost and lift the heads or the cylinder pressures on a poorly tuned truck can lift the heads.Also some heads weren't flat or had poor surface again bye bye HG.
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Old 10-08-2010, 04:39 PM
 
 
 
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