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  #31  
Old 05-03-2009, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by elee3 View Post
DSMMH,
Were you a nuke MM? I'm a former a-ganger. Most people on here, or most anywhere, would find it hard to really understand the level of attention to detail that comes with being a bubblehead mechanic. And that's not meant as anything negative against those posting critical comments on this thread.
No, I was not a nuke. My parents were married,LOL. I was an A-ganger. 15 years enlisted then made LDO from E-6. You understand where I'm coming from concerning level of attention to detail, persistence and not letting a good challenge kick my a** even at 61!

If you could zoom in on my avatar, my X tag reads BUBLHED

Keep the bubble!

DSMMH
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  #32  
Old 05-03-2009, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by joe blow View Post
elee3,

I am not sure why you would have to be a nukeMM to have attention to detail.....I mean I understand it is critical to do so when working in that field....but not sure what that has to do with having "attention to detail".
Man, don't take it to heart! ELEE3 and I are just a couple of bubble heads going down memory lane. AS ELEE3 said , we are not being critical of anyone's ability to do anything or criticizing their "attention to detail".

Currenty I'm an F/A-18 flight test engineer at Patuxent River, MD. When the aviation bubbas (pilots) get a little cocky, I always remind them that there are more of their airplanes on the bottom of my ocean then my submarines flying around in their airspace.

DSMMH
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04 X LTD: 4X4, 6.0L, ROUSH Airbox, TAG, X3/Custom Tunes, Auto Meter EGT, FP & Boost Pilar Gauges, ARP Studs, NT EGR Cooler/Exhaust Flow Deleted, Zoodad, MBRP T-Back (No Cat), Bilstiens, Hawks, DBA Cryos Front, Prodigy, Remote Start, Fuel X Over Line, AD 2, Banjo Bolt Mod, PML Tranny Pan, Coolant Filter, 160 AMP Alt Upgrade, Red-Head Steering Gear, Landyot Radius Rods, Firestone Air Bags, Mag-Hytech Diff Covers, 2nd CCV Line, Russell SS Brake Hoses, Ed's FICM Update, RP Synthetic Lubricants, AR 9100 Friction Modifier.
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  #33  
Old 05-03-2009, 11:24 PM
elee3 elee3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSMMH View Post
No, I was not a nuke. My parents were married,LOL. I was an A-ganger. 15 years enlisted then made LDO from E-6. You understand where I'm coming from concerning level of attention to detail, persistence and not letting a good challenge kick my a** even at 61!

If you could zoom in on my avatar, my X tag reads BUBLHED

Keep the bubble!

DSMMH
I'm not surprised that you were an A-ganger. You did it without a procedure. LOL

For those who might be curious, there are two different groups of mechanics on a nuclear submarine. The nuclear machists mates (nukes) who work mainly on the propulsion plant, air conditioning, and fresh water production plant. The others are the auxiliary machinists mates (A-gangers pronounced "A" gang-er) who work on all of the pneumatics, hydraulics, atmosphere control, plumbing, and most any other dirty job you can think of. Of course there is a healthy sibling like rivalry between these two groups.
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  #34  
Old 05-04-2009, 04:45 PM
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AHHHHHHHHHHHHH got it. No worries buddy. I wasn't sure where he meant. Take Care!
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  #35  
Old 06-03-2009, 02:36 PM
KTofCO KTofCO is offline
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Need to pull intake to pull head?

I definately find your posting interesting but have some additional questions for you. First do you have to pull the intake off in order to get the head off?

The last time I had to pull a head was on a '96 7.3PS when the glow plug broke that I was changing. That was a fairly painless head to pull.

This darn 6.0 is crammed into the engine bay and the cob comes over the top so far it makes it all hard to get to. Let me throw out my situation and get some input as to the best way to go;
I have an '03 6.0PS with 179,900 miles and I had the number 5 cylinder fuel injector fail. Unfortunatley not a simple crank, but a chunk of it was missing once the injector was pulled. So we did a compression test, results zero. So the best I can tell one of two things happened; that chunk went through the piston or tried to go through the valves and has one of them broke or lodged open. I have not torn into any thing else yet and luckilly I have something else to drive, in fact I had just sold the truck to a fella and it broke down the first time he had it out. So it's sitting out next to the barn until I figure out my plan of attack.

So that being said, lift the cab, remove the HVAC Box, or pull the motor what would be the best bet? I appreciate the input.
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  #36  
Old 06-03-2009, 04:24 PM
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As far as I know, intake manifolds always have to come off to remove a head.

You might find this helpful:
Powerstroke 6.0L Technical Intro Manual
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  #37  
Old 06-03-2009, 05:42 PM
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I did not have to remove the manifold on the '96 7.3PS. It simply had two rubber boots that connected the manifold to two inlet funnels that mounted to the head. Like I said that was realitively simply, this '03 6.0PS is shoehorned into that engine bay and I can't even tell what type of connection the manfold has to the head.
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  #38  
Old 10-12-2009, 08:22 PM
erikp erikp is offline
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So it's October now. Curious on an update on your work. Everything holding up?
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  #39  
Old 10-13-2009, 07:59 AM
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So it's October now. Curious on an update on your work. Everything holding up?
No problems. No puking or oil leaks. I continue to check the coolant tank for exhaust gases with my test kit about once every 4 months. That is the only way I detected the original problem. Well worth the $50.

DSMMH
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  #40  
Old 10-19-2009, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSMMH View Post
No problems. No puking or oil leaks. I continue to check the coolant tank for exhaust gases with my test kit about once every 4 months. That is the only way I detected the original problem. Well worth the $50.

DSMMH

Sir can you please tell me about the test kit you use to check your coolant, I would be interested in doing that as I am nearing the end of my warranty and want to know if I am starting to have an issue.
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  #41  
Old 10-19-2009, 07:50 PM
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Here is a link. Thats what they look like. They are available at Napa or any Cummins or IH dealer.
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  #42  
Old 10-26-2009, 04:19 AM
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Thanks, I have looked at the link and read the instructions. I dont understand what tells you if there is exhaust in the coolant?
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  #43  
Old 10-31-2009, 06:11 AM
RedBaron134 RedBaron134 is offline
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I'm glad to see that your head bolt replacement worked. I'm getting ready to upgrade to ARP Studs as well. Gone to far into the mods to be safe at this point. I'm currently in IRAQ(UH-60 Mechanic/Technical Inspector) so I to can appreciate the attention to detail. I will be pulling the heads to replace gaskets and have some headwork done though. Nice to know I'll be able to do this at the house and with less effort than I was originally planning. I have a sporadic coolant leak that has appeared as the weather changes, it's right at the rear corner of the passanger side head(my guess is the gasket is failing due to the mods). I have unplugged the EGR but also pulled the EGR plate to reduce resistance and ensure maximum airflow(no accidental closure of the plate either) I will be doing the EGR delete while I have it apart. I'm not worried about emissions being from Michigan. If you have the CCV mod the EGR delete should have a negligable impact on emissions as the EGR is designed to heat the intake quicker in cold climate so if you test your truck when it's up to temp the EGR has no impact(just thinking out loud).
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  #44  
Old 01-30-2010, 08:52 PM
live2snowboard live2snowboard is offline
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How are the HG holding up

DMMH,
I was wondering how your HG were holding up. I didn't have the money for ARP's when my HG were done about a month ago. But now I do...as Murphy would have it. I work in a hospital I know all about Murphy, he lives in the hospital.
In my case, however, I think I will do the EGR delete, they don't really check here in AZ, as far as I have seen.

Will
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  #45  
Old 01-30-2010, 09:02 PM
sandmanf250 sandmanf250 is offline
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yes ,it does work.
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Old 01-30-2010, 09:02 PM
 
 
 
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