Installed ARP Studs Without Pulling Motor, Lifting Cab or Removing HVAC Box
#16
I just put studs in an 04,the gasket showed no signs of being blown. The water jacket had penatrated the gasket at the block,in places the coolant was within millimeters of the combustion chamber.After seeing this I would never consider replacing the head bolts with studs without removing the heads and cleaning the seating surfaces.
#17
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#19
The EGR -I would not have Neil Technologies upgrade it, better recykle it and delete it for good. I put my ARP in without pulling the heads but pulled the cab. It´s a 2007 and had only 1k. miles when it was done. I removed the bolts and torqued the ARP studs in a similar way as described. I would be to chicken to consider replacing the head bolts with studs without removing the heads on an 2004 or 2005 PS. I did the EGR delete simultainuasly.I even pulled the elect. plug on the EGR valve before leaving the Ford dealer when I bought my dream-machine.No soot into my PS. Now I have a SCT tune. Pulling the cab was no issue.
#20
The EGR -I would not have Neil Technologies upgrade it, better recykle it and delete it for good. I put my ARP in without pulling the heads but pulled the cab. It´s a 2007 and had only 1k. miles when it was done. I removed the bolts and torqued the ARP studs in a similar way as described. I would be to chicken to consider replacing the head bolts with studs without removing the heads on an 2004 or 2005 PS. I did the EGR delete simultainuasly.I even pulled the elect. plug on the EGR valve before leaving the Ford dealer when I bought my dream-machine.No soot into my PS. Now I have a SCT tune. Pulling the cab was no issue.
I guess I don't follow the "chicken" logic for you putting your studs in at 1K miles and me putting mine in at 75,000 miles. As long as I have no HG issues going into the swap, I should get the same results you did. Why would it be different?
I pulled the plug on my EGR when I bought my X. It had 13,000 miles on it so my intake is almost soot free also. I'm definitely going to check and clean the intake before I install it.
DSMMH
#21
DSMMH,
Did you consider performing a crank case reroute yet?
I did mine with alot of other things. I wouldn't be so concerned with a little soot over the RIDICULOUS amounts of oil that is pumped into your turbo, intake, intercooler tubes and intercooler.
I was amazed at what I found only after 38k. To this day, I open the drain petcock on the CCV reroute cannister and get atleast a tablespoon every few weeks. Alot more if I really work the engine while towing heavy loads.
Did you consider performing a crank case reroute yet?
I did mine with alot of other things. I wouldn't be so concerned with a little soot over the RIDICULOUS amounts of oil that is pumped into your turbo, intake, intercooler tubes and intercooler.
I was amazed at what I found only after 38k. To this day, I open the drain petcock on the CCV reroute cannister and get atleast a tablespoon every few weeks. Alot more if I really work the engine while towing heavy loads.
#22
I just put studs in an 04,the gasket showed no signs of being blown. The water jacket had penatrated the gasket at the block,in places the coolant was within millimeters of the combustion chamber.After seeing this I would never consider replacing the head bolts with studs without removing the heads and cleaning the seating surfaces.
One thing I just don't get, is why did you save a couple hours and like $100 on the gaskets, and like $80 on the machine work, and not go all the way?! You've had the perfect chance.....
#24
Just like Brickie said, it is one risky game you played with leaving the old gaskets. I hope they work out fine for you, and I wish you don't have to redo the job again.
One thing I just don't get, is why did you save a couple hours and like $100 on the gaskets, and like $80 on the machine work, and not go all the way?! You've had the perfect chance.....
One thing I just don't get, is why did you save a couple hours and like $100 on the gaskets, and like $80 on the machine work, and not go all the way?! You've had the perfect chance.....
I proved to myself that I did not have to remove the motor, cab or HVAC unit to install studs or remove the heads like others have done. This gives all who need to replace HGs or install studs, especially X owners, another option. Money is not an issue. It became a challenge and principal thing with me. 35 years in the military directing the repair of nuclear submarine propulsion systems will do that to you. I believe they call it "being hard headed"! It's like the bank robber on the ground looking at Dirty Harry's 44 Mag wondering if he fired 5 or 6 times. The robber said "I gots to know"! CLICK!
If I had of removed all of the headbolts and then installed the studs, I would agree that pulling the head would have been the prudent thing to do. Now the HG integrity has been compromised. By installing the studs one at a time, I did not compromise the OEM HG seal integrity.
Also, by installing the studs, I feel I will have a better chance of not having major engine issues down the road. The OEM bolts will stretch over time that is a fact because they are undersized and are exposed to a very harsh environment, especially if a tuner is used. Studs will not stretch, therefore, they significantly reduce my risk of major engine issues down the road. If that were not true, everyone would not be replacing OEM headbolts with ARP studs.
THADO did it with only 1000 miles on his 6.0. He did not pull the heads and installed them similar to how I did it. Apparently he has had no problems. I firmly believe that if you have no HG issues before you elect to install studs, then you should be able to install studs without removing the heads at any mileage.
My EGR cooler is suppose to be back by 6 May. So I should have my X back together the end of next week. But since that is Mother's Day weekend, maybe not. I will post what happens when it happens.
Thanks, pjwoolw, for EGR cooler upgrade link.
DSMMH
#25
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#27
Why? Because that is what everybody else does.
I proved to myself that I did not have to remove the motor, cab or HVAC unit to install studs or remove the heads like others have done. This gives all who need to replace HGs or install studs, especially X owners, another option. Money is not an issue. It became a challenge and principal thing with me. 35 years in the military directing the repair of nuclear submarine propulsion systems will do that to you. I believe they call it "being hard headed"! It's like the bank robber on the ground looking at Dirty Harry's 44 Mag wondering if he fired 5 or 6 times. The robber said "I gots to know"! CLICK!
If I had of removed all of the headbolts and then installed the studs, I would agree that pulling the head would have been the prudent thing to do. Now the HG integrity has been compromised. By installing the studs one at a time, I did not compromise the OEM HG seal integrity.
Also, by installing the studs, I feel I will have a better chance of not having major engine issues down the road. The OEM bolts will stretch over time that is a fact because they are undersized and are exposed to a very harsh environment, especially if a tuner is used. Studs will not stretch, therefore, they significantly reduce my risk of major engine issues down the road. If that were not true, everyone would not be replacing OEM headbolts with ARP studs.
THADO did it with only 1000 miles on his 6.0. He did not pull the heads and installed them similar to how I did it. Apparently he has had no problems. I firmly believe that if you have no HG issues before you elect to install studs, then you should be able to install studs without removing the heads at any mileage.
My EGR cooler is suppose to be back by 6 May. So I should have my X back together the end of next week. But since that is Mother's Day weekend, maybe not. I will post what happens when it happens.
Thanks, pjwoolw, for EGR cooler upgrade link.
DSMMH
I proved to myself that I did not have to remove the motor, cab or HVAC unit to install studs or remove the heads like others have done. This gives all who need to replace HGs or install studs, especially X owners, another option. Money is not an issue. It became a challenge and principal thing with me. 35 years in the military directing the repair of nuclear submarine propulsion systems will do that to you. I believe they call it "being hard headed"! It's like the bank robber on the ground looking at Dirty Harry's 44 Mag wondering if he fired 5 or 6 times. The robber said "I gots to know"! CLICK!
If I had of removed all of the headbolts and then installed the studs, I would agree that pulling the head would have been the prudent thing to do. Now the HG integrity has been compromised. By installing the studs one at a time, I did not compromise the OEM HG seal integrity.
Also, by installing the studs, I feel I will have a better chance of not having major engine issues down the road. The OEM bolts will stretch over time that is a fact because they are undersized and are exposed to a very harsh environment, especially if a tuner is used. Studs will not stretch, therefore, they significantly reduce my risk of major engine issues down the road. If that were not true, everyone would not be replacing OEM headbolts with ARP studs.
THADO did it with only 1000 miles on his 6.0. He did not pull the heads and installed them similar to how I did it. Apparently he has had no problems. I firmly believe that if you have no HG issues before you elect to install studs, then you should be able to install studs without removing the heads at any mileage.
My EGR cooler is suppose to be back by 6 May. So I should have my X back together the end of next week. But since that is Mother's Day weekend, maybe not. I will post what happens when it happens.
Thanks, pjwoolw, for EGR cooler upgrade link.
DSMMH
I've done the same last year to my truck on the passenger side with out pulling the head, drivers side had a cooked exhaust valve so it had to be removed. When the ARP's were installed I had 135 000 klms now I'am almost at 150 000 klms with no change in compresion before and after the install. But time will tell right
#28
DSMMH
#29
DSMMH,
Were you a nuke MM? I'm a former a-ganger. Most people on here, or most anywhere, would find it hard to really understand the level of attention to detail that comes with being a bubblehead mechanic. And that's not meant as anything negative against those posting critical comments on this thread.
Were you a nuke MM? I'm a former a-ganger. Most people on here, or most anywhere, would find it hard to really understand the level of attention to detail that comes with being a bubblehead mechanic. And that's not meant as anything negative against those posting critical comments on this thread.
#30