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Installed ARP Studs Without Pulling Motor, Lifting Cab or Removing HVAC Box

  #16  
Old 04-30-2009, 10:51 AM
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I just put studs in an 04,the gasket showed no signs of being blown. The water jacket had penatrated the gasket at the block,in places the coolant was within millimeters of the combustion chamber.After seeing this I would never consider replacing the head bolts with studs without removing the heads and cleaning the seating surfaces.
 
  #17  
Old 04-30-2009, 06:32 PM
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Im plannin studs in the near future on my truck. I will be pullin the heads and gettin them decked though. Only problem is that i have an 8in lift, so pullin the cab might end up bein easier.lol but i might try pullin the front clip and droppin the motor down.
 
  #18  
Old 04-30-2009, 10:46 PM
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Cart,

right...just an analogy.
 
  #19  
Old 04-30-2009, 11:56 PM
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The EGR -I would not have Neil Technologies upgrade it, better recykle it and delete it for good. I put my ARP in without pulling the heads but pulled the cab. It´s a 2007 and had only 1k. miles when it was done. I removed the bolts and torqued the ARP studs in a similar way as described. I would be to chicken to consider replacing the head bolts with studs without removing the heads on an 2004 or 2005 PS. I did the EGR delete simultainuasly.I even pulled the elect. plug on the EGR valve before leaving the Ford dealer when I bought my dream-machine.No soot into my PS. Now I have a SCT tune. Pulling the cab was no issue.
 
  #20  
Old 05-01-2009, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by thado
The EGR -I would not have Neil Technologies upgrade it, better recykle it and delete it for good. I put my ARP in without pulling the heads but pulled the cab. It´s a 2007 and had only 1k. miles when it was done. I removed the bolts and torqued the ARP studs in a similar way as described. I would be to chicken to consider replacing the head bolts with studs without removing the heads on an 2004 or 2005 PS. I did the EGR delete simultainuasly.I even pulled the elect. plug on the EGR valve before leaving the Ford dealer when I bought my dream-machine.No soot into my PS. Now I have a SCT tune. Pulling the cab was no issue.
Thanks for the EGR cooler suggestion but it is already a done deal. My upgraded cooler is on it's way from the left coast. I just prefer to leave the EGR stock.

I guess I don't follow the "chicken" logic for you putting your studs in at 1K miles and me putting mine in at 75,000 miles. As long as I have no HG issues going into the swap, I should get the same results you did. Why would it be different?

I pulled the plug on my EGR when I bought my X. It had 13,000 miles on it so my intake is almost soot free also. I'm definitely going to check and clean the intake before I install it.


DSMMH
 
  #21  
Old 05-01-2009, 07:52 AM
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DSMMH,

Did you consider performing a crank case reroute yet?

I did mine with alot of other things. I wouldn't be so concerned with a little soot over the RIDICULOUS amounts of oil that is pumped into your turbo, intake, intercooler tubes and intercooler.

I was amazed at what I found only after 38k. To this day, I open the drain petcock on the CCV reroute cannister and get atleast a tablespoon every few weeks. Alot more if I really work the engine while towing heavy loads.
 
  #22  
Old 05-01-2009, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by brickie
I just put studs in an 04,the gasket showed no signs of being blown. The water jacket had penatrated the gasket at the block,in places the coolant was within millimeters of the combustion chamber.After seeing this I would never consider replacing the head bolts with studs without removing the heads and cleaning the seating surfaces.
Just like Brickie said, it is one risky game you played with leaving the old gaskets. I hope they work out fine for you, and I wish you don't have to redo the job again.
One thing I just don't get, is why did you save a couple hours and like $100 on the gaskets, and like $80 on the machine work, and not go all the way?! You've had the perfect chance.....
 
  #23  
Old 05-01-2009, 07:53 PM
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EGR upgrade

Here a link to the EGR cooler upgrade for those interested. Only half way off topic.
 
  #24  
Old 05-01-2009, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by dcaddi2
Just like Brickie said, it is one risky game you played with leaving the old gaskets. I hope they work out fine for you, and I wish you don't have to redo the job again.
One thing I just don't get, is why did you save a couple hours and like $100 on the gaskets, and like $80 on the machine work, and not go all the way?! You've had the perfect chance.....
Why? Because that is what everybody else does.

I proved to myself that I did not have to remove the motor, cab or HVAC unit to install studs or remove the heads like others have done. This gives all who need to replace HGs or install studs, especially X owners, another option. Money is not an issue. It became a challenge and principal thing with me. 35 years in the military directing the repair of nuclear submarine propulsion systems will do that to you. I believe they call it "being hard headed"! It's like the bank robber on the ground looking at Dirty Harry's 44 Mag wondering if he fired 5 or 6 times. The robber said "I gots to know"! CLICK!

If I had of removed all of the headbolts and then installed the studs, I would agree that pulling the head would have been the prudent thing to do. Now the HG integrity has been compromised. By installing the studs one at a time, I did not compromise the OEM HG seal integrity.

Also, by installing the studs, I feel I will have a better chance of not having major engine issues down the road. The OEM bolts will stretch over time that is a fact because they are undersized and are exposed to a very harsh environment, especially if a tuner is used. Studs will not stretch, therefore, they significantly reduce my risk of major engine issues down the road. If that were not true, everyone would not be replacing OEM headbolts with ARP studs.

THADO did it with only 1000 miles on his 6.0. He did not pull the heads and installed them similar to how I did it. Apparently he has had no problems. I firmly believe that if you have no HG issues before you elect to install studs, then you should be able to install studs without removing the heads at any mileage.

My EGR cooler is suppose to be back by 6 May. So I should have my X back together the end of next week. But since that is Mother's Day weekend, maybe not. I will post what happens when it happens.

Thanks, pjwoolw, for EGR cooler upgrade link.

DSMMH
 
  #25  
Old 05-01-2009, 10:59 PM
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Man.....I didn't know it was that much of a hearfelt issue.

I don't think anyone here is questioning your decision to replace the studs without r&r'ing the headgaskets....it just seems odd that someone that goes through so much trouble wouldn't do it 100% correctly.
 
  #26  
Old 05-02-2009, 08:47 AM
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Concerning the EGR cooler, I have seen threads on this site stating that Ca. will start diesel emission testing next year. If they start it here it is a matter of time before it hits you. If not for cleaner air they will do it for the added income.
 
  #27  
Old 05-02-2009, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by DSMMH
Why? Because that is what everybody else does.

I proved to myself that I did not have to remove the motor, cab or HVAC unit to install studs or remove the heads like others have done. This gives all who need to replace HGs or install studs, especially X owners, another option. Money is not an issue. It became a challenge and principal thing with me. 35 years in the military directing the repair of nuclear submarine propulsion systems will do that to you. I believe they call it "being hard headed"! It's like the bank robber on the ground looking at Dirty Harry's 44 Mag wondering if he fired 5 or 6 times. The robber said "I gots to know"! CLICK!

If I had of removed all of the headbolts and then installed the studs, I would agree that pulling the head would have been the prudent thing to do. Now the HG integrity has been compromised. By installing the studs one at a time, I did not compromise the OEM HG seal integrity.

Also, by installing the studs, I feel I will have a better chance of not having major engine issues down the road. The OEM bolts will stretch over time that is a fact because they are undersized and are exposed to a very harsh environment, especially if a tuner is used. Studs will not stretch, therefore, they significantly reduce my risk of major engine issues down the road. If that were not true, everyone would not be replacing OEM headbolts with ARP studs.

THADO did it with only 1000 miles on his 6.0. He did not pull the heads and installed them similar to how I did it. Apparently he has had no problems. I firmly believe that if you have no HG issues before you elect to install studs, then you should be able to install studs without removing the heads at any mileage.

My EGR cooler is suppose to be back by 6 May. So I should have my X back together the end of next week. But since that is Mother's Day weekend, maybe not. I will post what happens when it happens.

Thanks, pjwoolw, for EGR cooler upgrade link.

DSMMH

I've done the same last year to my truck on the passenger side with out pulling the head, drivers side had a cooked exhaust valve so it had to be removed. When the ARP's were installed I had 135 000 klms now I'am almost at 150 000 klms with no change in compresion before and after the install. But time will tell right
 
  #28  
Old 05-02-2009, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 69cj
Concerning the EGR cooler, I have seen threads on this site stating that Ca. will start diesel emission testing next year. If they start it here it is a matter of time before it hits you. If not for cleaner air they will do it for the added income.
Yeah, I hear you. With State budgets in a world of hurt what better way to generate income then require all vehicles up to a certain weight to have an annual emmisions test. CA is just the start so I'm going to be prepared. It's coming!

DSMMH
 
  #29  
Old 05-03-2009, 11:18 AM
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DSMMH,
Were you a nuke MM? I'm a former a-ganger. Most people on here, or most anywhere, would find it hard to really understand the level of attention to detail that comes with being a bubblehead mechanic. And that's not meant as anything negative against those posting critical comments on this thread.
 
  #30  
Old 05-03-2009, 11:21 AM
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elee3,

I am not sure why you would have to be a nukeMM to have attention to detail.....I mean I understand it is critical to do so when working in that field....but not sure what that has to do with having "attention to detail".
 

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