Hi people !

Got an 82 F100 that had been in one of our lovely floods and needed some TLC.
My main issues are the rev counter shows max rpm as soon as ignition is turned on and the column change is very stiff.
I've lubed the cable but not disconnected the cable to isolate the drama.
The spring Part in the column is inop and the pivot broken but I just used a bolt.

So, is the stiffness and wear common with these shift parts ?
What's the fix/replacement costs ?

Anyway, 5.8L 3sp auto cleveland.
33" muddies on hot wires, lifted a little I think (red coil springs).
Lumpy cams, genie extractors, later model 600cfm holley.

Sounds very tuff indeed !

So, any tips, fire away !
As she was last week...


As it was the other day, done more since but haven't taken pics, will do tomorrow.

 

Warning, this guy is from Australia. I was getting ready to say a f100 4x4 didn't exist till I saw the bumper guard and then looked at his profile. Of course he also has the Cleveland engine.

Carry on.

 

Haha, yeah, 351 Clevo in OZ.

My main drama at the moment is the really stiff auto change. The column arm has came off, the pin was broken and the spring part isn't working.
And dash pod is a bit worse for wear with its time under water ?
Wondering where to get these parts ??

 

You're probably best to source parts locally (Aus) because of being RHD, & also not sharing the same column parts/shift indicator etc, as the U.S. trucks.

To answer your earlier question - no, the shifters weren't stiff but the US trucks didn't use cables. I would start stripping to pinpoint the problem.

 

Yeah I will.
Could be the cable and th column may be salvagble but all hearsay until I get into it like toy say.
Thanks !

Ps, any other tips for the truck , keep Em coming !

 

Update....

Got her running good now ! threw in more timing with new carby and it running on petrol and she wants to 4wd roost up the grass easement behind my house ! :notworthy

More pics of her as I've cleaned it up !
Seat is perfect.
Door cards are a bit rough but solid and can be covered easily.
Dash needs fixed as its cracked at top and been hacked up a bit by previous owner in their quest to fit a gazillion gauges and switches but otherwise, rotors machining and a seatbelt to do and she's ready for rwc I think.
Probably fail on some stuff but won't be much I'd presume with an old truck ! :evilidea
As she was last week ! looking sorry for herself ! Top tide mark is about level with bottom of sun tint on window so about 6ft of standing muddy water at one point.

Will removed and realign front bull bar, maybe get it blasted and polished, remove grill and paint or replace it .


And now !

 

Effin, did your rear axle get bent/cracked at some time? Truck's looking good, by the way! .

 

Not tht I can see, would do well to bend this thing !

Rock solid, looks strengthened though.

 

Got another dash pod and fitted straight up but the rev counter doesn't register and neither does the oil and water temp.
I have after market gauges that show what's going on too but I'd rather fix the new ones.

The new dash has brown printed cct and old one is gluey green but all connectors fitted right up...
Any ideas ?

 

In the US trucks, the 1980 printed circuits were green; 81-86 were red.
They couldn't be swapped without modifications.........but I don't know if the Oz trucks had the same differences.

 

Looks like someone trussed the underside of the axle. You see that a lot in JeepSpeed vehicles.

 

Mines an 82 ken. Fuel gauge seems to work, maybe I am not giving it time to warm up ?

Ps, how do I change the tranny oil on these things ?

Do they have a breather as the only reason I am doing it is because the truck was in deep water...

 

Possibly, buy 100% not a home job.
Its identical both sides, machined parts so either an engineering place with skills or something else ?

 

I've seen some nice home brewed trusses, though yours could of been made by a fab shop. Do you have any other suspension pics? Looks like she was built for some high speed desert bombing with that truss.

 

Will take some more...

Got drama at the moment, there seems to be a drain hole fitted to these diffs, rear still in, front removed and gone.
I got a filler plug from a wreckers but never seen the little drain hole in the bottom.

The rear is like a 10mm grub bolt with hex insert head.
Can't see these in any google searches.

As for lift, yeah it's about 6" overall compared to another I looked at the other day, about 3" in springs and lift kit and 33x12.5 rubber !