The 20-amp field wire fuse is probably blown. It's at the lower right of your two battery fuses (under the plastic cover) on the firewall.
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Thank you for the ideas. I searched the firewall and fender wells this morning before heading to work and could not find it. Checked my Explorer and found it on the Explorer in about 30 seconds, but the Expedition, no such luck.
These are the 175amp fuses that you bolt down right?
By the way can they shoot the person who placed the fuse box under the glove box, behind the kick panel with mini fuses and large relays. It's such a pain in the #!% to see anything there, mechanics are generally not contortionists damn it!
There also looks to be a "Trailer Tow Relay / Battery Charge" in this schematic, since this only happened while towing a trailer maybe this could be the issue, but where is the relay in the truck, bit lost in the schematic
Sorry my fault, I didn't realize they moved the charging fuse to the inside fuse box in 03. Anyway, it should be fuse #106, show in the below picture.
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Oh, oh, I checked the whole fuse box last night, including 106 (an odd looking pink and clear box) and Relay 5, all seem to be fine, nothing blown and relay clicks as you would expect.
At this point I am thinking that I will pull the new alternator and bring the new and old alternators along with the battery and the relays in for testing to see if I have lost my damn mind.
The more I work on newer cars the more i want a classic (60's Mustang, F100, etc) - 100+ fuses is driving me crazy, damn features! Been a great truck thou, 130K and no issues.
Any other thoughts, before I take the "suspects" in for testing at the parts store.
Alternator went bad, and Fuse 106 blew (note i had to pull the fuse and use a flashlight to determine it blew, could barely see the element inside had broken, even up close).
The battery had discharged and would no longer crank the truck.
One new alternator (upgraded from stock 110amp to Navigation Equipped 130amp)
A fresh recharge on the battery
One new 30amp fuse - #106 and appear to be up and running again
To those who wondered I replaced the drive belt with a new Gatorback belt just for the sake of getting it done and cheap insurance.
When I have the truck running and test the new alternator I am getting a reading of 12.08 - 12.11v
I am testing the alternator by connecting a voltmeter so that positive goes to the red bolt connector on the alternator and the negitive goes to the ground screw against the firewall.
Am I doing anything else wrong, seemes like a new out of box failure to me.
I'm still trying to track this down, I got teh new alternator tested and it was bad. Got it switched out for another new alternator and when installed getting the same issue (Check Charging System).
Could something be shorting out the alternators even if the battery is disconnected and fuses are fine? I am running out of time for this to be fixed and the stealership is becomming my next and last resort???
I finally found the problem and the truck is fixed.
THe issue was the Orange/Blue wire that is part of a bundle of 4 wires that branches oifff the Positive wire (with fusible link) to the Alternator.
THe Orange / Blue wire was frayed and broken due to being in contact with an AC line, it broke and bew the alternator. Fixed the wire and all is working fine now.
Hey guys, hijacking the thread. My '03 5.4 EB 4x4 is giving me a "Check Charge System" message along with the battery light after replacing the alternator this morning. It cranked hard last night, but didn't give any lights or messages. Voltmeter was dropping low at stop lights. I went to the parts store and they said the battery was low (probably from driving with headlights on and a bad alternator) and the truck died when they tried to run the alternator test. We both agreed it was the alternator. Bought it and new belt and installed this morning.
Went to parts store to get my core charge back and have them check everything again. They said battery and charge system are good. I've checked fuses, connectors, pulled the battery connection with truck running and it kept running off the alternator. I'm at a loss. Any ideas???
1. With the engine (and key) off?
2. With the engine running at idle?
3. With the engine running around 1500 RPMs?
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UGH!! Finally. Between myself being sick and the kids being sick, I finally got around to it.
1. 12V
2. 13.5V
3. 13.5V
We've been driving the truck 2 weeks now with the same light and message. Have probably put on about 500 miles without issue though. It's just annoying seeing the light and having to reset the message center everytime you get in the truck and about every 20 minutes when on longer trips.
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