I've been reading about some of the issues with the 5.4L engine, and I'm curious to find out which one I have. It's a 2002 F-250 4X4 w/AT.

1. Is this a 2 or 3 valve engine?

2. Has the problem with the spark plugs spitting and/or seizing been resolved by this model year?

Thanks!

 

It's a 2 valve, but I can't help you on the plug thread issue. I would like to know as well...

 

to my knowledge the plug problem was not resolved yet in this model, i have a late 2001 and plew my number 3 out of the head and put a helie-coil in it... my friend has a early model 2002 and his did the same thing as well with the same cyclinder....

 

The 2002 for the most part don't have a problem. Maybe mine is a later 2002, but I have several threads on each plug. My plug job was simple, no fouled holes and easy turning.

The 3v motors started in the trucks with the body change, 2004 for F150 and 05 I think for the superduty.

 

I spoke to a Ford tech at the local dealer and he said the plugs are designed to go 80 - 100k before changing them, and I'm better off to let them alone until time for replacement. He says they can now repair the threads, if necessary, without yanking the the heads.

He said also that the plug will usually loosen before it spits, and that I would hear a tapping or exhaust leaking sound, and that I should try tightening the plug.

Is his advise sound, or should I remove the plugs and apply anti-seize? I got the truck 2 weeks ago with 63k miles on it, so I assume the plugs are original.

 

My stock plugs were shot at 65k miles. I can't recall the gap, but it was way over spec. Replacing them cured a slight miss and gained me some mileage. I'd go ahead do them with some nevr-seize.

 

Okay . . . are there any pointers you can give? For instance, must they be soaked with penetrating oil before attempting to remove them? I have read some horror stories in this forum about plugs breaking off in the head even when being careful.

 

When I did mine, I did one side at a time. I had a roll a round work table that put my tools, lubes, and parts on. I was lucky at the time because I had KD tools set of spark plug sockets with integral wobble extension and they fit perfectly inside the spark plug hole.

Take a part every thing in the way, then pull the coil, blow out the hole with air or wd40. Gently remove the spark plug, they don't have a lot of tension, I think it's under 40 inch pounds (not foot pounds). Then install the new ones with a torque wrench and not pop it several times, you don't need massive amounts of force on them. Coat the new coil boots with dielectric and reinstall everything.

When I did mine, I forgot to plug #8 fuel injector in when I finished. I had a bad miss, but as soon as I saw the error code I remembered what I did.

If you want to prepare, you can pull the coils the night before and let something like PB blaster or kroil sit on it over night. It should make them real easy to pull. I find letting the metal warm above ambient temperature helps threads loosen up, I had to move my truck a few hundred feet before I started my install, and I do this when I work on o2 sensors.

 

I think the plug breaking off in the head happens mostly with the new design 3v plugs. They have a long shaft under threads which get built up on and don't slide out the holes nicely.

 

That's some good info, I appreciate it.

BTW, I checked out your truck. Nice ride. Must have taken you awhile to do all those mods.

 

Thanks, it's still a work in progress. There is more to come once I can get some more money to put into it.

 

I forgot to ask, what plugs did you use, and are you happy with them?
What should I expect to pay for them?

 

I put in Denso IRs, they were some of the latest greatest and hotly debated by the mustang crowd. IR (iridium) is harder or melts at a higher temperature than platinum, so they should hold a gap even better than a triple platinum plug.

I went on a trip two days after the install, and saw marked mileage improvements and a smoother idle. It's been about 3 years and 15k miles and I think I've picked up a little bit of a spark miss, but I'm too lazy to pull and check the gap. I think I paid $8.50 each, but they were $15ea spark plugs. Quality platinum plugs are going to be $8.50-12each.

 

There is a thread in here that tells all about it and has a link. Use search.

 

The only thing definitive I have ever found was the following information, found in an NHTSA investigation into the issue, WHICH WAS CLOSED AS UNFOUNDED because of 1) such a low number of vehicles effected and 2) the lawyer lied about the severity.

December 1996 - 4.6L 4V alignment feature added
February 1997 - 4.6L 2V head alignment feature added
September 2000 - WEP (Windsor Engine Plant) 2V head alignment feature modified (4.6/5.4/6.8)
November 2002 - WEP introduced long thread heads on 2V (all)
May 2003 - REP (Romeo Engine Plant) introduced long-thread heads on 4V 4.6 and 5.4
November 2003 - REP introduced long-thread heads on 2V and modified alignment feature

In 1999, and 2001, an interim fix was done for a cross-threading issue.
Original process:

Step 1 - Zero torque spark plug (air tool)
Step 2 - Torque to 16-20Nm final torque (DC Run down), monitor at 6-12Nm, and final torque must be reached within 0-360 degrees.

New process (addressed the possibility of applying installation torque for more than 25 degrees of rotation)
Step 1 - Zero torque spark plug (air tool)
Step 2 - Torque to 16-20Nm final torque (DC Run down) start monitor at 6-12Nm, and final torque must be reached within 3-25 degrees.

Another action to address cross-threading was the addition of an alignment feature to lead the plug into the hole.