What kind of generator?

[StanleyZ]

Originally Posted by grafekie Also, you CAN NOT RUN TWO GENERATORS TOGETHER!! Not on the same circuit. So get one that can do the largest appliance you need to power... if you need a second, you have to run it seperately. I'm no electrition (in fact as you can see, I can't even spell it) but Honda makes a kit to run theirs double which makes the output 4KW. Enough to run the 15,000 btu AC. I'm also told that you can buy the parts at the hardware store and build a kit a lot cheaper. Look around on the RV Net web site and you will find lots of info. Also there is a Honda 2000i Group on Yahoo that has all the same info. As for the extra cost of the Hondas, I get it, a buck hasn't always been that easy to come by for me either. But that doesn't make the noise any less aggravating.

[spinella]

honda calls that 2 into one set-up, a parallel cable. they are very common. i use a 3000 watt kipor generator. it is a exact rip off of the honda 3000. (so much so that kipor is being sued by honda)it runs my 15 k a/c with no problem. i just cant use the microwave while the a/c is on.(roughing it???). i bought mine online from a guy in washington. he had about 50pcs. i paid $1000 delivered. brand new. i think they go for $1400 retail.three of my camping buddys also bought from him. i also agree if your camping quiet generators are a must.

[grafekie]

My father is an electritian and he has never heard of this kit... interesting.

[spinella]

heres a link to hondas website http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/p...generators.pdf
on the left side scroll down to eu generator accesorys

[grafekie]

Is that because those models are inverter based? In order to link two generators you have to find a way to syncronize the two alternator's phase, which is near impossible. I guess if it was a computer based inverter you could have better ability to control phase?

[BPofMD]

Here's a link to the ad from CAMPING WORLD for those linking generators...

Honda EU2000iA Companion Portable Generator - Item - Camping World

[StanleyZ]

Originally Posted by grafekie

Is that because those models are inverter based? In order to link two generators you have to find a way to syncronize the two alternator's phase, which is near impossible. I guess if it was a computer based inverter you could have better ability to control phase?

Man guru, that's so far over my head I won't even try an answer. I am, after all an analog man in a digital world.

[spinella]

yes. they are inverters. you can run sensitive off them stuff like computers with no spikes.

[87mh]

Below is how I hook up my two Honda 2000's.

Way cheaper to construct than Honda's kit, the only downside is that IF a kid or inebriated adult stumbles and pulls one of the 110 plugs out of one of the generators, the prongs of the pulled plug will be hot....you takes your chances.....






Finished kit.




I just connected the AC outputs - joined the outputs together at the 30 amp plug.

The two ports on the Honda used for the Honda supplied co-generation circuit are safety devices - Lord love the US Lawyer inspired legal system.

The Honda connections (the "extra" ports) are fully encapsulated and shielded plug-ins designed such that should the "safety" connections fall out (they have a habit of doing that, according to posts on other Forums I visit) some idiot will not be able to come along and burn his tongue should he (or she) put the exposed live lead in his (or her) mouth. The Honda "safety" plugs are directly connected to the same circuit as the 110 house sockets on the front of the Hondas.



Now, having said what I did about idiots and lawyers above, the main safety drawback on this hookup is that it IS possible to have a "hot" 110 plug exposed should one fall out - or not be plugged in - a managable risk, in my opinion, if just a little bit of common sense is utilized. The "factory" pigtails (with a protected internal connection) are reported to be prone to falling out during operation - the standard 110 volt plug in connection I used does not seem to have that problem. Of course, there is always the possibility of pulling out a plug by tripping over the cord on a late night bathroom excursion - in which chase one would REALLY need to watch just what he is doing and where he is doing it. Anyone with any electrified fence or lawn mower sparkplug experience knows what I am talking about.



There is one other safety item that the factory unit has which mine does not, the factory unit also comes with an internal 30 amp breaker. I did not install this item, relying on the Airstream electric panels and the internal 20 amp protectors in the generators instead.

It is very simple to link the two together. Above are some pics of a pigtail I made - total cost about 50 bucks.

Remember, you HAVE to purchase similar generators which are designed to "synch-up" together....don't try this with a couple of Home Depot cheapies.

Oh, yeah, do ALL of us a favor and DO NOT run your "contractor series" generators in a campground - first off, most campgrounds have exhaust and noise level limits which the $600 cheapies simply cannot meet, and second, and most important, it is terribly rude to expose fellow campers to the unmuffeled exhaust and internal noise that such a generator produces.

[alchymist]

Originally Posted by mistakenID

I have an 8000 watt that is pretty loud. I've thought about rigging up some kind of sound deadening but am concerned about engine damage from an increase if back pressure or heat or ??? whatever might come into play with a bit more tube, muffler ect.

I have not gotten serious enough to attempt anything. Has anyone tried to quiet down a larger gen? Would it be a problem for a 10 hp engine to add an additional muffler, something that would clamp on when needed?

We need some viable ideas that won't cause damage to an engine!

Believe it or not, the exhaust is the smaller part of the noise components. The major contributor is mechanical noise. Only way to really quiet one is sound deadning enclosures. And to do the job effectively, they need to be big and bulky. And then the larger muffler has to be outside that......

As to combining two gensets, the Honda's work really well that way. The 2000i is great, I use it around the house to power electric weed whacker, electric chainsaw, etc. Light, easy to move around.....


If government is the answer, it must have been a really stupid question.

[alchymist]

Originally Posted by 87mh

Below is how I hook up my two Honda 2000's.

Way cheaper to construct than Honda's kit, the only downside is that IF a kid or inebriated adult stumbles and pulls one of the 110 plugs out of one of the generators, the prongs of the pulled plug will be hot....you takes your chances.....






Finished kit.




I just connected the AC outputs - joined the outputs together at the 30 amp plug.

The two ports on the Honda used for the Honda supplied co-generation circuit are safety devices - Lord love the US Lawyer inspired legal system.

The Honda connections (the "extra" ports) are fully encapsulated and shielded plug-ins designed such that should the "safety" connections fall out (they have a habit of doing that, according to posts on other Forums I visit) some idiot will not be able to come along and burn his tongue should he (or she) put the exposed live lead in his (or her) mouth. The Honda "safety" plugs are directly connected to the same circuit as the 110 house sockets on the front of the Hondas.



Now, having said what I did about idiots and lawyers above, the main safety drawback on this hookup is that it IS possible to have a "hot" 110 plug exposed should one fall out - or not be plugged in - a managable risk, in my opinion, if just a little bit of common sense is utilized. The "factory" pigtails (with a protected internal connection) are reported to be prone to falling out during operation - the standard 110 volt plug in connection I used does not seem to have that problem. Of course, there is always the possibility of pulling out a plug by tripping over the cord on a late night bathroom excursion - in which chase one would REALLY need to watch just what he is doing and where he is doing it. Anyone with any electrified fence or lawn mower sparkplug experience knows what I am talking about.



There is one other safety item that the factory unit has which mine does not, the factory unit also comes with an internal 30 amp breaker. I did not install this item, relying on the Airstream electric panels and the internal 20 amp protectors in the generators instead.

It is very simple to link the two together. Above are some pics of a pigtail I made - total cost about 50 bucks.

Remember, you HAVE to purchase similar generators which are designed to "synch-up" together....don't try this with a couple of Home Depot cheapies.

Oh, yeah, do ALL of us a favor and DO NOT run your "contractor series" generators in a campground - first off, most campgrounds have exhaust and noise level limits which the $600 cheapies simply cannot meet, and second, and most important, it is terribly rude to expose fellow campers to the unmuffeled exhaust and internal noise that such a generator produces.

I don't believe you have a true "220 Volt" connection the way you have it set up. If I recall correctly, the Honda interconnect kit allows one inverter to synchronize with the other, so that each generator is producing 110 volts 180 degrees out of phase with the other. The way you have it set up it will not do this. (I could be wrong, if so, someone is sure to correct me).

The reason this works on your RV is that there are no 220 volt circuits. All appliances are 110 volts, with some on one leg of the 220 volt connection, and the remainder on the other. So phasing doesnt matter. You can achieve the same thing with a breakout connector that plugs into the 220 volt connector on the RV and splits it out into two seperate 110 volt circuits with a common neutral. Then an extension cord to each generator will power them. I use the breakout connector with one generator....only hook up the side I need at the moment.

Are you sure that you have 110 volts on one of the unplugged cables from your adapter? I would be interested in seeing a wiring diagram of this. Just saying.......




The American people will never knowingly adopt socialism, but under the name of liberalism they will adopt every fragment of the socialist program until one day America will be a socialist nation without ever knowing how it happened. Norman Thomas, Co-Founder ACLU

[Old93junk]

You guys really like to split hairs with the "construction generator noise" thing. IMO a guy who runs his "loud" constuction gen. for 20 min. is a hell of a lot less offensive than the blasting, thumping stereos, unmuffled 2 stroke dirt bikes and ATVs that seem to be acceptable now in campgrounds. A large segment of the folks with "quiet" hondas, etc...Seem to like to run theirs up until the last possible second at night before finally switching to batt. power..........Believe me, they are not that quiet a 11:00 at night!
Campgrounds have gone to hell anyway, no one respects each other anymore. Thats why for the most part I have switched to unimproved campgrounds to escape the idiots. So if I run my construction gen. for 20 minutes to re-charge my batteries, your just going to have to excuse me, that is if you can hear it over the thumping stereos!.

[87mh]

Originally Posted by alchymist

I don't believe you have a true "220 Volt" connection the way you have it set up. If I recall correctly, the Honda interconnect kit allows one inverter to synchronize with the other, so that each generator is producing 110 volts 180 degrees out of phase with the other. The way you have it set up it will not do this. (I could be wrong, if so, someone is sure to correct me).

The reason this works on your RV is that there are no 220 volt circuits. All appliances are 110 volts, with some on one leg of the 220 volt connection, and the remainder on the other. So phasing doesnt matter. You can achieve the same thing with a breakout connector that plugs into the 220 volt connector on the RV and splits it out into two seperate 110 volt circuits with a common neutral. Then an extension cord to each generator will power them. I use the breakout connector with one generator....only hook up the side I need at the moment.

Are you sure that you have 110 volts on one of the unplugged cables from your adapter? I would be interested in seeing a wiring diagram of this. Just saying.......

The inverter system utilized by Honda allows the generators to run IN phase (not 180 degrees out), so what honda is doing is allowing the first generator to phase with the second (just like the big industrial jobs) and adding the generating capability to the second -

The plug receptical in my pics is a 110 volt 30 amp - as I referenced earlier, one of the downsides of my home made solution is I actually have the potential of putting 33.4 amps (16.7 amps intermittent rating each) into my single 30 amp plug - even though there are actually 20 amp plugs on each of the Honda's, 16.7 amps is the most that each of the gennys will put out.

You are quite correct about the 110 volts scenario in RV's (50 amp plug). Even though there COULD BE (and usually is) two each 110 legs (220 volts) going to the RV, each individual circuit is only 110 volts.

[StanleyZ]

Originally Posted by Old93junk

You guys really like to split hairs with the "construction generator noise" thing. IMO a guy who runs his "loud" constuction gen. for 20 min. is a hell of a lot less offensive than the blasting, thumping stereos, unmuffled 2 stroke dirt bikes and ATVs that seem to be acceptable now in campgrounds. A large segment of the folks with "quiet" hondas, etc...Seem to like to run theirs up until the last possible second at night before finally switching to batt. power..........Believe me, they are not that quiet a 11:00 at night!
Campgrounds have gone to hell anyway, no one respects each other anymore. Thats why for the most part I have switched to unimproved campgrounds to escape the idiots. So if I run my construction gen. for 20 minutes to re-charge my batteries, your just going to have to excuse me, that is if you can hear it over the thumping stereos!.

In Georgia we say: "the hit dog yelps loudest". Peace brother.

[grafekie]

Uhm... if you hook it like that won't you fry things? You are out of phase. The link, I'd assume, would have some kind of data link to it that would allow the two circuit boards in the two generators talk to each other to syncronize. If not synced.... could be very bad news. That is why you can't connect two non-inverter generators together.