97 E-150 Conversion Keyless Entry Fix
#1
04-24-2009, 11:36 PM
97 E-150 Conversion Keyless Entry Fix
I searched around while I was trying to fix this problem, but I didn't find anything. In case anyone else is having similar issues, I thought I would post a quick write-up.
My van is a 97 E-150 conversion by Quality Coaches. The rear door and the side door would occasionally (but very rarely) lock or unlock with the power locks, the keyfobs worked very intermittently for locking and unlocking remotely, and the interior lights wouldn't always come on when the side door was opened. I looked over the wiring diagrams for the van and found that pretty much all of those functions went back to the RKE module which is located behind the interior paneling on the left side of the van behind the driver's seat. I also found a TSB that referred to faulty RKE modules that needed to be replaced when keyfob use was flakey.
To get to the RKE, I pulled out the windowsill bit that they had installed under the window, and found the module. It's a black plastic box which is pretty much the only thing on the van with an FCC number on it. I found that if I pressed on it, or wiggled its two electrical connectors, the module would click and the interior lights would come on and off (the side door was open at the time). If I pressed on the connectors, all of a sudden the keyfob would work perfectly and all of the doors would lock and unlock. I removed the RKE module from the van and inspected the wiring harness, finding no obvious defect or looseness, and the ground seemed solid. The connectors, however, seemed to have a lot of wiggle to them, so I opened up the unit and examined the PCB. Basically, the solder holding the pins for the wiring harness connectors had broken and it was allowing the circuit to open and close somewhat randomly.
It took me about 5 minutes of soldering to re-attach the pins to the PCB, and when I put it all back together, the wiring harness connector no longer wiggled, and now all the locks work, the light comes on when the door is opened, and the keyfob works reliably every time.
Pictures:
The pins at the far end of the PCB are the ones that are loose
Another angle showing how bad of a conductor air can be
Notice how much wiggle is in the wiring harness connector
The pins just aren't seated right.
After the repair
Not the prettiest solder job I've ever done, but it seems to work
My van is a 97 E-150 conversion by Quality Coaches. The rear door and the side door would occasionally (but very rarely) lock or unlock with the power locks, the keyfobs worked very intermittently for locking and unlocking remotely, and the interior lights wouldn't always come on when the side door was opened. I looked over the wiring diagrams for the van and found that pretty much all of those functions went back to the RKE module which is located behind the interior paneling on the left side of the van behind the driver's seat. I also found a TSB that referred to faulty RKE modules that needed to be replaced when keyfob use was flakey.
To get to the RKE, I pulled out the windowsill bit that they had installed under the window, and found the module. It's a black plastic box which is pretty much the only thing on the van with an FCC number on it. I found that if I pressed on it, or wiggled its two electrical connectors, the module would click and the interior lights would come on and off (the side door was open at the time). If I pressed on the connectors, all of a sudden the keyfob would work perfectly and all of the doors would lock and unlock. I removed the RKE module from the van and inspected the wiring harness, finding no obvious defect or looseness, and the ground seemed solid. The connectors, however, seemed to have a lot of wiggle to them, so I opened up the unit and examined the PCB. Basically, the solder holding the pins for the wiring harness connectors had broken and it was allowing the circuit to open and close somewhat randomly.
It took me about 5 minutes of soldering to re-attach the pins to the PCB, and when I put it all back together, the wiring harness connector no longer wiggled, and now all the locks work, the light comes on when the door is opened, and the keyfob works reliably every time.
Pictures:
The pins at the far end of the PCB are the ones that are loose
Another angle showing how bad of a conductor air can be
Notice how much wiggle is in the wiring harness connector
The pins just aren't seated right.
After the repair
Not the prettiest solder job I've ever done, but it seems to work
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#2
08-01-2011, 08:27 PM
I searched around while I was trying to fix this problem, but I didn't find anything. In case anyone else is having similar issues, I thought I would post a quick write-up.
My van is a 97 E-150 conversion by Quality Coaches. The rear door and the side door would occasionally (but very rarely) lock or unlock with the power locks, the keyfobs worked very intermittently for locking and unlocking remotely, and the interior lights wouldn't always come on when the side door was opened. I looked over the wiring diagrams for the van and found that pretty much all of those functions went back to the RKE module which is located behind the interior paneling on the left side of the van behind the driver's seat. I also found a TSB that referred to faulty RKE modules that needed to be replaced when keyfob use was flakey.
To get to the RKE, I pulled out the windowsill bit that they had installed under the window, and found the module. It's a black plastic box which is pretty much the only thing on the van with an FCC number on it. I found that if I pressed on it, or wiggled its two electrical connectors, the module would click and the interior lights would come on and off (the side door was open at the time). If I pressed on the connectors, all of a sudden the keyfob would work perfectly and all of the doors would lock and unlock. I removed the RKE module from the van and inspected the wiring harness, finding no obvious defect or looseness, and the ground seemed solid. The connectors, however, seemed to have a lot of wiggle to them, so I opened up the unit and examined the PCB. Basically, the solder holding the pins for the wiring harness connectors had broken and it was allowing the circuit to open and close somewhat randomly.
It took me about 5 minutes of soldering to re-attach the pins to the PCB, and when I put it all back together, the wiring harness connector no longer wiggled, and now all the locks work, the light comes on when the door is opened, and the keyfob works reliably every time.
Pictures:
The pins at the far end of the PCB are the ones that are loose
Another angle showing how bad of a conductor air can be
Notice how much wiggle is in the wiring harness connector
The pins just aren't seated right.
After the repair
Not the prettiest solder job I've ever done, but it seems to work
My van is a 97 E-150 conversion by Quality Coaches. The rear door and the side door would occasionally (but very rarely) lock or unlock with the power locks, the keyfobs worked very intermittently for locking and unlocking remotely, and the interior lights wouldn't always come on when the side door was opened. I looked over the wiring diagrams for the van and found that pretty much all of those functions went back to the RKE module which is located behind the interior paneling on the left side of the van behind the driver's seat. I also found a TSB that referred to faulty RKE modules that needed to be replaced when keyfob use was flakey.
To get to the RKE, I pulled out the windowsill bit that they had installed under the window, and found the module. It's a black plastic box which is pretty much the only thing on the van with an FCC number on it. I found that if I pressed on it, or wiggled its two electrical connectors, the module would click and the interior lights would come on and off (the side door was open at the time). If I pressed on the connectors, all of a sudden the keyfob would work perfectly and all of the doors would lock and unlock. I removed the RKE module from the van and inspected the wiring harness, finding no obvious defect or looseness, and the ground seemed solid. The connectors, however, seemed to have a lot of wiggle to them, so I opened up the unit and examined the PCB. Basically, the solder holding the pins for the wiring harness connectors had broken and it was allowing the circuit to open and close somewhat randomly.
It took me about 5 minutes of soldering to re-attach the pins to the PCB, and when I put it all back together, the wiring harness connector no longer wiggled, and now all the locks work, the light comes on when the door is opened, and the keyfob works reliably every time.
Pictures:
The pins at the far end of the PCB are the ones that are loose
Another angle showing how bad of a conductor air can be
Notice how much wiggle is in the wiring harness connector
The pins just aren't seated right.
After the repair
Not the prettiest solder job I've ever done, but it seems to work
The website doesn't seem to show the photo's though and I'd like to try this repair myself.
Can you send me the photo's by email?
Thanks
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#4
08-15-2011, 12:23 PM
Excellent post and work through on lock problem
I have a 98 e150 conversion van and had the exact same problems. The power locks would just automatically go up and down every once in a while until they finally just stopped working.
I did the same proceedure that Wae did with a little solder and fixed it.
"Basically, the solder holding the pins for the wiring harness connectors had broken and it was allowing the circuit to open and close somewhat randomly."
I had to inspect mine with a magnifying glass to see the break.
It's been two years so far and everything has worked perfect. Just the other day, I had to laugh because it did it again. up down, up down like it's possessed. I am going to have to get the solder gun out again!
I did the same proceedure that Wae did with a little solder and fixed it.
"Basically, the solder holding the pins for the wiring harness connectors had broken and it was allowing the circuit to open and close somewhat randomly."
I had to inspect mine with a magnifying glass to see the break.
It's been two years so far and everything has worked perfect. Just the other day, I had to laugh because it did it again. up down, up down like it's possessed. I am going to have to get the solder gun out again!
#7
07-14-2012, 10:27 PM
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#8
07-16-2012, 03:42 PM
This fixed my problem for a couple of years now, however just lately the locks started to become possessed again going up and down on their own. It's hot here where I live and I think the heat has increased this happening.
Like you said also, any jarring of the vehicle will set this off. Slamming doors and actually going through soft brush car washes will do it. I was cleaning the van really good the other day and noticed whenever I got into the vicinity of where the box is located behind driver seat on wall panel, it would randomly set locks up and down while just cleaning the conversion window!
I truly believe it's the solder on the pins, at least I think it's my problem! Good Luck
Like you said also, any jarring of the vehicle will set this off. Slamming doors and actually going through soft brush car washes will do it. I was cleaning the van really good the other day and noticed whenever I got into the vicinity of where the box is located behind driver seat on wall panel, it would randomly set locks up and down while just cleaning the conversion window!
I truly believe it's the solder on the pins, at least I think it's my problem! Good Luck
#9
07-28-2017, 02:40 PM
I have this same problem in my 1996 Ford E150 conversion van. Sorry to resurrect an old thread. I pulled the RKE and inspected the solders.
Without a better magnifying glass I can't identify any broken solders. I added solder to all of the pins on the top harness but still no luck. (Top being with the harnesses on my right) When I press on the top relay or top harness the door locks cycle. I tested each relay with a 9v and they all click. I don't have the tools to easily test ohms but I don't think they're the problem.
Any additional thoughts? Is it still likely the solders?
EDIT: I called my local Ford and the part is considered obsolete. I'll need to find a way to bypass this and add an aftermarket version.
Without a better magnifying glass I can't identify any broken solders. I added solder to all of the pins on the top harness but still no luck. (Top being with the harnesses on my right) When I press on the top relay or top harness the door locks cycle. I tested each relay with a 9v and they all click. I don't have the tools to easily test ohms but I don't think they're the problem.
Any additional thoughts? Is it still likely the solders?
EDIT: I called my local Ford and the part is considered obsolete. I'll need to find a way to bypass this and add an aftermarket version.
#10
08-22-2017, 07:24 PM
Hopefully this thread can "wake back up". LOL
My '97 E150 T"he Shadow by Eclipse" conversion van (excellent shape +2000 miles since overhaul)seems to fit right in here with all of you. Remote works but door lock buttons do not. It has eaten a pair of batteries, because ??? lights not going off? (new batt and clamps now). This may or may not be the same issue.
Power windows and mirrors all work from either door (if applicable), it is only the remotes on occasion and the door buttons that are intermittent. The door locks will activate sometimes while we're driving (early but not later).
The wires in the doors seem fine. The antenna is not loose (a '97 issue for the RKE module). I've cleaned the door lock switches, but suspected the RKE module. This thread is right on the nose.
Where is the RKE module? How big is it? How can I tell what I'm looking for/when I find it?
Are they no longer available? I can test with VOM and solder, so maybe I can DIY a solution.
Help!
Thanks in advance! We love this 20 year old gem!
Michael
My '97 E150 T"he Shadow by Eclipse" conversion van (excellent shape +2000 miles since overhaul)seems to fit right in here with all of you. Remote works but door lock buttons do not. It has eaten a pair of batteries, because ??? lights not going off? (new batt and clamps now). This may or may not be the same issue.
Power windows and mirrors all work from either door (if applicable), it is only the remotes on occasion and the door buttons that are intermittent. The door locks will activate sometimes while we're driving (early but not later).
The wires in the doors seem fine. The antenna is not loose (a '97 issue for the RKE module). I've cleaned the door lock switches, but suspected the RKE module. This thread is right on the nose.
Where is the RKE module? How big is it? How can I tell what I'm looking for/when I find it?
Are they no longer available? I can test with VOM and solder, so maybe I can DIY a solution.
Help!
Thanks in advance! We love this 20 year old gem!
Michael
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#11
11-16-2017, 06:37 AM
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#12
11-16-2017, 06:40 AM
#13
11-16-2017, 06:44 AM
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#14
11-16-2017, 10:37 AM
I gave up and purchased a new RKE module off ebay for $150. Overpriced but I couldn't fix it.
Unfortunately my remotes will not program despite following every possible tutorial online. Something about my system must be different or aftermarket. I'm planning to buy a cheap aftermarket remote kit.
Unfortunately my remotes will not program despite following every possible tutorial online. Something about my system must be different or aftermarket. I'm planning to buy a cheap aftermarket remote kit.
#15
05-23-2018, 06:44 PM