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jeffie_3 wrote:
>I now have the correct starter, relay, and wiring.

Cool. :)
The original wiring setup works pretty dangged good.
Still got it in my '75 F150 and used it just a couple days ago. ;)

>If you jump the relay with a screw driver it will start (connecting the
>battery terminal on the relay with the I connector). Once in a great
>while the key will start it.

Cool. :) Sounds like a dirty/unused/used-up ignition switch from here.
Get a meter and hook to it and find the trouble while it's failing! :)

Don't swap out parts until after you've tracked it down with a meter.
Messing with the wires etc can clear the trouble up on you, only for it
to return later.

If you don't have a meter or know how to use one get your friend that
does to help you, if you ain't got either one buy a cheap analog meter
at the auto parts store and get back here for instructions. You can do
this, it's easier than driving trough traffic and a lot less dangerous and
you have no trouble with that do you? ;)

>I have ordered a manual on this. Just trying to get some of the more
> simple things done. So we can drive it. So any info is welcomed.
>Jeff

That's a big step in the right direction. For your information obviously
but also when you're asking questions you can skip the "stupid" part
of the question and get-down-to-it as-if you've put some effort in it. ;)

Alvin in AZ

 

I have a couple of good meters. I will start tracing.
Next question.

The clutch is slipping. He told me that in the beginning. As I dig deeper into this. I'm thinking maybe he just didn't put the spacers on the backside of the flywheel. Or maybe a new clutch. I want to order a clutch kit and spacers. He is the problem. When I look up what I need it is for a Mazda transmission.
The numbers on mine do not match up. It is a
F75A
AA
D262165

That is what the tag on it says. Have any idea which year the transmission is?

Again

Thanks for the info.

Jeff

 

We did find a bad connection. Thanks for the direction. It starts every time now.
Now on to the transmission. Have any ideas?
F75A
AA

Thanks

Jeff

 

I also used that link as a guide and got screwed by putting it into first prior to removing the cover. You end up with a transmission being stuck in gear when you reassemble. The proper procedure is to put it into NEUTRAL.

Search on my ID with keyword "stuck" and you should find the thread on this. I'm not the only one to have this issue, but fortunately it's pretty easy to resolve.

 

"F7" = 1997 part number. 1997 also coincides with the first year of the new F150 as well as the first year of the V6 that replaced the I6.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

I know this thread is old, and I have no qualms about posting to a thread that stopped a couple years ago. On to my inquiry . . .

I have a 1986 F150 with the 351W, and (if I counted bolts correctly) a C6. I want to downgrade this to a five-speed. All I can find for my year truck is three and four speed transmissions. Would an M5R2 (or M5OD, thinking same thing) fit, or should I try to find a ZF off the same size engine?

Thanks, William.

 

Got a question for you.<br />
<br />
My truck has on the fly 4x4 so I don't have a shifter for it just a couple of buttons on the dash. Will that cause any problems? Could I just disconnect it and put a manual shifter on the floor?

 

Hello:I want to swap an e4od for a 5spd on my 94 f150. Since 5spds are uncommon could someone tell me if I could use a 5spd from any year f150? Although I would like the zf I've never seen one in a local junkyard. The people at the junkyard couldn't help. Thank you.

 

ANY year? No. But the Windsor bell pattern IS shared across lots of platforms including the 4.9, 5.0. 5.8, and even the early 4.6.

The speedo went electronic starting in 1992, so you'd likely want to get a donor 5-speed from a '92+ truck. The forks on the M5 were made easier to service starting about that same time, so that's another reason to stick with '92+ gearboxes.

 

Are you sure about this bolt size? im doing the same swap in my truck and im using the 11” clutch and ive been trying to find the correct bolt size for it for the past week. i bought the clutch and flywheel new. 5/16 with an 18 thread pitch works great for the smaller clutch’s holes but it wont thread into the other holes for the bigger clutch

• Install your new clutch, pressure plate and again use some lock tight on the bolts (These bolts should be recovered from the salvage yard when you removed the fly wheel, if not the kit calls for grade 8 5/16 18 x1 in and you need 6)