Rear Axle Seal Replacement

[adamss]

While rotating my tires this weekend, I found fluid around my left rear wheel and when I removed the brake caliper I eliminated brake fluid leaving only the grayish fluid inside the parking brake drum portion of the disk as gear oil. So, I got my Auto Hobby shop here at my AF Base to get me an exploded view of the Ford rear axle and after great deliberation, I have decided to replace the seals myself. I figure (rightly so) that while I'm in there I will do both sides, replace the bearings and cones, and also the pinion seal on the pumpkin.fficeffice" />>> Am I over looking anything?>> Got any advice / tricks to ease my pain? (I know to do one side at a time for reference).>> How difficult is this operation (I am a jet engine / Electronics fundamentals instructor with a solid mechanical aptitude)?>> Any Pix, diagrams, or literature would be greatly appreciated.>> Thanks,>> Spencer>>

[Monster-4]

It's fairly easy. Here's a good thread about this.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/74...ake-shoes.html

[Krewat]

If the pinion seal is not leaking, leave it alone. You're asking for trouble with the pinion bearings if you don't get it back exactly like it was to begin with.

ALSO - check the breather on the differential housing and make sure it's not clogged. If it is clogged, as the unit heats up it will push gear oil out the weakest seal. Which could be why the wheel bearing seal is leaking.

[Krewat]

If the pinion seal is not leaking, leave it alone. You're asking for trouble with the pinion bearings if you don't get it back exactly like it was to begin with.

ALSO - check the breather on the differential housing and make sure it's not clogged. If it is clogged, as the unit heats up it will push gear oil out the weakest seal. Which could be why the wheel bearing seal is leaking.

[adamss]

Krewat,
Can you elaborate on the pinion bearing issue? There is evidence of weeping underneath the nose of the pinoin area. If the issue is access to correct tooling to accomplish the job, I won't worry as my Air Force Auto-Hobby shop has every tool (Murphy's Law will kick in here of course) we could possibly need. Now, if the pinion seal has contact issues or tolerences with the pinion bearing, then please let me know.
Thanks,
Spencer

[12ozd]

Remove the rear driveshaft, remove pinion nut, remove yoke, remove seal,
install new seal,yoke,nut, torque to specs. crush sleeve has already been crushed to set pre load.Be sure to lube the inside seal surface or outside yoke where it rides on the seal.

[Krewat]

Originally Posted by adamss

Krewat,
Can you elaborate on the pinion bearing issue? There is evidence of weeping underneath the nose of the pinoin area. If the issue is access to correct tooling to accomplish the job, I won't worry as my Air Force Auto-Hobby shop has every tool (Murphy's Law will kick in here of course) we could possibly need. Now, if the pinion seal has contact issues or tolerences with the pinion bearing, then please let me know.

It has to do with getting the pinion bearing preload back to what it was, or at least very close.

"Torque to specs" is a very open-ended proposition.

If it's a DRW (dual rear wheel) it's OK to do it that way.

If it's an SRW (single rear wheel) with the Sterling 10.5", it's a bit more complicated than that. Many here advocate using a procedure that says to mark the location of the pinion nut before removal, and reinstall to the same point. In my opinion, that's asking for trouble, even though many reliable techs here say they have done it that way.

From my '01 service manual CD:


Removal

1. Note:
The rear wheels and brake calipers must be removed to prevent brake drag during drive pinion bearing preload adjustment.

Remove the rear brake calipers. For additional information, refer to «Section 206-04».

2. Remove the driveshaft (4602). For additional information, refer to «Section 205-01».

µ 3. Install a Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench on the pinion nut, and record the rotational torque required to maintain rotation of the pinion through several revolutions.

µ 4. CAUTION:
After removal of the pinion nut, discard it. A new nut must be used for installation.

Use the Flange Holder to hold the pinion flange while removing the pinion nut.

µ 5. Mark the pinion flange in relation to the drive pinion stem to ensure proper alignment during installation.

µ 6. Use the 2-Jaw Puller to remove the pinion flange.


Installation

1. Lubricate the pinion flange splines.

l Use SAE 75W-140 High Performance Rear Axle Lubricant F1TZ-19580-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSL-M2C192-A.

µ 2. Note:
Disregard the scribe marks if a new pinion flange is being installed.

Align the pinion flange with the drive pinion shaft.

µ 3. With the pinion flange in place in the rear axle housing (4010), install the pinion flange using the Companion Flange Replacer.

µ 4. Position the new pinion nut.

µ 5. CAUTION:
Under no circumstances is the pinion nut to be backed off to reduce preload. If reduced preload is required, a new collapsible spacer and pinion nut must be installed.

Use the Flange Holder to hold the pinion flange while tightening the pinion nut.

l Tighten the pinion nut, rotating the pinion occasionally to make sure the cone and roller bearings are seating properly. Take frequent cone and roller bearing torque preload readings until the original recorded preload reading is obtained by rotating the pinion with a Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench.

l If the original recorded preload is lower than specifications, tighten to the appropriate specification for used bearings. If the preload is higher than specification, tighten the nut to the original reading as recorded. Refer to Torque Specifications in this section.

µ Refer to corresponding illustration.

6. Install the driveshaft. For additional information, refer to «Section 205-01».

7. Install the brake calipers. For additional information, refer to «Section 206-04».

[adamss]

I have decided to let the seal go while keeping an eye on it. I will clean it up and see how long it takes to weep. If quickly, I will pay the local Ford dealer for 1.5 hrs to R&R so the pressure is on them. The local dealer charges 85 bucks per hour. Seems high, is it?
I have all my parts, less the brake shoes, and am ready to press on this weekend. Questions:
1-should I remove the pumpkin cover, clean and inspect the area, before refilling?

2-Is the gasket RTV?

3-Fluid? Synthetic or petro based?

4-Check the breather tube.

5-am I missing anything?

[Monster-4]

Sorry I didn't notice in your first post that you where looking at replacing the pinion seal as well. Just read it to quickly but Krewat took care of you on that.

1.) Yes. Also check the cover out itself. They tend to rust out at the bottom.

2.) Yes RTV gasket.

3.) 75W-140 Sythetic is the correct fluid to use. Also if you have limited-slip you need to get 4 oz of friction modifier.

4.) Yes they tend to cloug up with mud, dirt, etc.

5.) Think you got it covered.

[adamss]

thanks, monster-4
Spencer

[adamss]

RTV? Red, Blue, or Black?

[Monster-4]

I used black. The red and blue are high temp that really is not needed.

[adamss]

What is the waiting perid after installing the cover before I add the 75w-140 synthetic fluid and driving?

[Krewat]

What I do with RTV is allow it to skin over for 15 minutes or so (read the directions) before putting the cover back on.

I THINK - you can immediately fill it and drive it, but ... I usually let it cure overnight before I go anywhere.

[Monster-4]

I usually wait over night before using just about any RTV on anything. But if you have to drive it do as Krewat said and let it skin over for 15 minutes. If you can wait even an hour I think it would be ok to fill and drive. Best thing to do is read the directions (because I never have and not sure what it says!).