I don't know if it would be better to ask this here or the "Offroad & 4x4" forum but here goes...
Can a TTB D44 be "lincoln locked"? I would think that it would be possible--but the more I think about the funky way it's assembled,and the way it has to be disassembled, I don't know...

Anyway, *hypothetically* if it can be welded, you would not feel it on the street because with both hubs unlocked and the x-fer in 2hi then the front diff doesn't turn at all....

Jon
1989 F-150 XL- 4x4, 302, M50D
1995 Bronco Eddie Bauer- 351W, E40D

 

Sure you can...but don't ever plan on using 4wd on the street again...it won't be safe to use.

Ryan

 

Thanks for the quick reply, Ryan. I live in south georgia, and we don't get much snow/ice down here...so there's no reason I should need 4wd on the street. I want to make a "budget off-roader" out of my F-150 and right now I'm in the stage of trying to figure out which corners to cut. (I.E. welding instead of buying 2 $500+ detroits)

Thanks again!

Jon
1989 F-150 XL- 4x4, 302, M50D
1995 Bronco Eddie Bauer- 351W, E40D

 

You can still use it on pavement IF you only lock one hub and let the other freewheel for 3WD.

 

Thats a nice tip Steve, I've never thought of that. That might get me into buying a locker for the front of mine. If that works ok then what do you need a selectable locker for.


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Check out my Gallery for a look-see.


Justin - One Happy FTE Member

 

You can still use it on pavement IF you only lock one hub and let the other freewheel for 3WD.

Wouldn't that be the same as an open differential??

I personally don't like hillbilly lockers because they allow NO flex in drive train parts. It's great for an off road only truck but on the street tires and u-joints wouldn't last long.

 

I would not weld the front diff 44. I would go selectable. Having a welded diff means you practically double your turning radius offroad and you put a bad strain on your steering system. Plus, the other drivetrain parts.

GA is hilly. Trying to wheel a welded/locked front end around things off-road and around trees in mud is not what I would call enjoyable. Your power steering system will be the first victim after your wallet.

Go cheap body lift vs. suspension. Retreads vs. new tires. Weld the rear (unless you are doing a lot of street driving on 285 in the rain at 65). Autozone shocks. Upgrade the radius arm bushings to poly. etc.
Wood in the floor boards instead of metal. etc.

FWIW: It is not that hard to drop the front diff. in the TTB in your driveway to weld it. Just time consuming and messy.

 

84
No, it wouldn't act like an open diff - it would act like a driveshaft going to a right-angle drive to one wheel, with another wheel opposite it but not connected. If the diff is welded, there is no more "differential". It's then a homemade spool.

And you could do the same thing off-road - 3WD until you needed to lock in the 4th. No steering problems.

 

Have you done it before? What's it drive like on the street? Just tryin' to learn.


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Check out my Gallery for a look-see.


Justin - One Happy FTE Member

 

I've never done it, but it would pull slightly toward the unlocked side, especially in mud.

 

I'd weld the rear, they don't handle that bad, but I would never,ever weld the front. It's just asking for way to many problems. If there ever was a chance I would need 4x4 on a semi-hard surface, I would use an LS at most. 90% of driving a 4x4 is skill anyways. I have wheeled in a 4x2 'Yota pickup with an open differential, chasing trains in northern AZ. I have passed stuck 4x4's in it before.

Jared