IDM 100 mod w/ pics
#61
Okay, here is a typical example in a soldering manual.
The top one has to much solder, its all beaded up and not clean, this solder will most likely not hold.
The second one is a correct solder joint. for really any sort of component on a board. Just enough to hold the part, this will be strong and conduct well.
Obviously the black part is the component, grey is solder, and the green is the board.
I did it for an example of how to surface mount, like we are doing here on the IDM.
To much solder make's a weak joint. For wires it can work, when you solder wires together, but its more likely to break under stress, or not hold.
It is kind of like welding. To much rod in the joint makes a weak joint. You want just enough to hold it and make the bond/fill.
welding however melts the components together and the rod is a filler. Soldering isn't like that. The rod does it all. So what type of solder you use is also important.
Stay away from the newer style lead free solders. The Zinc/tin solders have a high melting point.
The lower the melting point on a circuit board the better. That means you have to have less heat. If you overheat the resistor, you will damage it. Over heating the board will damage other components as well.
Also, you can burn solder or flux.
You shoudln't need to buy any flux for this project, just some flux core solder will work.
a good thin 60/40 or the newer style silver.
Make sure your iron is clean and holding solder well. You have to have a layer of solder on the iron to transfer heat properly. You cannot just turn it on and solder.
So before you touch it to the component, melt solder on the tip and give it a thin layer.
If the solder just melts and falls off, the tip needs to be cleaned. You cannot effectively solder with a tip like that.
There are many ways to clean tips, depending on the type of iron it is. Some irons have a coating on the tip, and you have to use what is called a "tinning block"
The thin layer of solder on the tip is called "tinning" which is used in the heat transfer. The solder on the tip is required for the heat transfer, like i said before. So if it doesn't hold solder, you cannot solder properly.
That is the whole purpose of the wet sponge/cloth to clean the tip during soldering.
What happens is carbon from the solder and air build up on the tip and do not allow the solder to stick.
I generally use dollar store irons, and just clean the tip with a scotch brite pad before i start it up. I wrap it in some solder so the solder has to bond to it during the heating process. It really is a big pain in the *** to get an old missused soldering iron to work right.
If you dont solder a lot and want to do this mod.
just go buy a cheepie 15-18 watt iron from ace or the dollar store.
Just throw it in a box or do wood burning with it when your done.
The reason i use cheepies is cause I will grind the tip to the shape I want, and not care.
I hope i helped everyone with this info.
http://www.midnightmods.com/2009/06/...ng-part-1.html
I wrote one soldering article so far on my websight, trying to get some basics of wire soldering going.
I need to expand on it soon with a part 2 on the basics of taking care of your equipment and tinning. I just do not have the nessicary tools anymore to do it.
The top one has to much solder, its all beaded up and not clean, this solder will most likely not hold.
The second one is a correct solder joint. for really any sort of component on a board. Just enough to hold the part, this will be strong and conduct well.
Obviously the black part is the component, grey is solder, and the green is the board.
I did it for an example of how to surface mount, like we are doing here on the IDM.
To much solder make's a weak joint. For wires it can work, when you solder wires together, but its more likely to break under stress, or not hold.
It is kind of like welding. To much rod in the joint makes a weak joint. You want just enough to hold it and make the bond/fill.
welding however melts the components together and the rod is a filler. Soldering isn't like that. The rod does it all. So what type of solder you use is also important.
Stay away from the newer style lead free solders. The Zinc/tin solders have a high melting point.
The lower the melting point on a circuit board the better. That means you have to have less heat. If you overheat the resistor, you will damage it. Over heating the board will damage other components as well.
Also, you can burn solder or flux.
You shoudln't need to buy any flux for this project, just some flux core solder will work.
a good thin 60/40 or the newer style silver.
Make sure your iron is clean and holding solder well. You have to have a layer of solder on the iron to transfer heat properly. You cannot just turn it on and solder.
So before you touch it to the component, melt solder on the tip and give it a thin layer.
If the solder just melts and falls off, the tip needs to be cleaned. You cannot effectively solder with a tip like that.
There are many ways to clean tips, depending on the type of iron it is. Some irons have a coating on the tip, and you have to use what is called a "tinning block"
The thin layer of solder on the tip is called "tinning" which is used in the heat transfer. The solder on the tip is required for the heat transfer, like i said before. So if it doesn't hold solder, you cannot solder properly.
That is the whole purpose of the wet sponge/cloth to clean the tip during soldering.
What happens is carbon from the solder and air build up on the tip and do not allow the solder to stick.
I generally use dollar store irons, and just clean the tip with a scotch brite pad before i start it up. I wrap it in some solder so the solder has to bond to it during the heating process. It really is a big pain in the *** to get an old missused soldering iron to work right.
If you dont solder a lot and want to do this mod.
just go buy a cheepie 15-18 watt iron from ace or the dollar store.
Just throw it in a box or do wood burning with it when your done.
The reason i use cheepies is cause I will grind the tip to the shape I want, and not care.
I hope i helped everyone with this info.
http://www.midnightmods.com/2009/06/...ng-part-1.html
I wrote one soldering article so far on my websight, trying to get some basics of wire soldering going.
I need to expand on it soon with a part 2 on the basics of taking care of your equipment and tinning. I just do not have the nessicary tools anymore to do it.
#62
#64
did my idm mod to my 95 dually. all went pretty well for me not being able to solder worth a crap.
i used nail polish clear coat over the newly soldered resistor and then i hot glued it to that green thing for stability.
it gave the truck a noticable power gain. but i couldnt tell a diff at idle or start up cuz my truck runs and idles like junk lol.
thanks for the writeup, never would have tryed this without you! reps given!
Mitch
i used nail polish clear coat over the newly soldered resistor and then i hot glued it to that green thing for stability.
it gave the truck a noticable power gain. but i couldnt tell a diff at idle or start up cuz my truck runs and idles like junk lol.
thanks for the writeup, never would have tryed this without you! reps given!
Mitch
#65
did my idm mod to my 95 dually. all went pretty well for me not being able to solder worth a crap.
i used nail polish clear coat over the newly soldered resistor and then i hot glued it to that green thing for stability.
it gave the truck a noticable power gain. but i couldnt tell a diff at idle or start up cuz my truck runs and idles like junk lol.
thanks for the writeup, never would have tryed this without you! reps given!
Mitch
i used nail polish clear coat over the newly soldered resistor and then i hot glued it to that green thing for stability.
it gave the truck a noticable power gain. but i couldnt tell a diff at idle or start up cuz my truck runs and idles like junk lol.
thanks for the writeup, never would have tryed this without you! reps given!
Mitch
#66
Just finished it up and it still runs after I put it back in! Just wanted to post the pics on here for those of you who might want them...
Started with my stock IDM 100
Next found the blue resistor marked 6042
Removed it and carefully soldered in the new resistor
I didn't want to get the resistor too close to the circuit bored as there wasn't much space, I know others solder it closer but I wanted to stay on the safe side.
After I soldered in the new resistor I put a dab of silicone between the resistor and the green part next to it to keep it in place.
Put a bead of silicone around the cover and pressed it back together till it set up. Re-installed in the truck and it started right up! I was pretty nervous for a while though...
Havn't taken it out for a drive but will report on how it runs when I do.
Started with my stock IDM 100
Next found the blue resistor marked 6042
Removed it and carefully soldered in the new resistor
I didn't want to get the resistor too close to the circuit bored as there wasn't much space, I know others solder it closer but I wanted to stay on the safe side.
After I soldered in the new resistor I put a dab of silicone between the resistor and the green part next to it to keep it in place.
Put a bead of silicone around the cover and pressed it back together till it set up. Re-installed in the truck and it started right up! I was pretty nervous for a while though...
Havn't taken it out for a drive but will report on how it runs when I do.
i need help i got a 1/2 ohm 100volt resister from radio shack and my truck wont start any suggestions
#67
Yes, remove that resistor and get the correct one. It needs to be 75,000 ohm 140v.
Radio Shack only sells junk anyway.
Get the correct resistors from Digikey: http://www.digikey.com/
Read through this, http://www.forgotton.net/diesel/idmmod/index.htm, the correct Digikey numbers are there.
If that doesn't help then you might have messed something up.
Radio Shack only sells junk anyway.
Get the correct resistors from Digikey: http://www.digikey.com/
Read through this, http://www.forgotton.net/diesel/idmmod/index.htm, the correct Digikey numbers are there.
If that doesn't help then you might have messed something up.
__________________
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
#68
#69
I know a few computer guys that have played with this and they said 160v (I think) is possible, but that messes with the clock speed of the chip sets or something.
So, yes it's kind of possible, but not a good idea for a reliable unit without modifying a lot of other things.
So, yes it's kind of possible, but not a good idea for a reliable unit without modifying a lot of other things.
__________________
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
#70
Yes, remove that resistor and get the correct one. It needs to be 75,000 ohm 140v.
Radio Shack only sells junk anyway.
Get the correct resistors from Digikey: http://www.digikey.com/
Read through this, http://www.forgotton.net/diesel/idmmod/index.htm, the correct Digikey numbers are there.
If that doesn't help then you might have messed something up.
Radio Shack only sells junk anyway.
Get the correct resistors from Digikey: http://www.digikey.com/
Read through this, http://www.forgotton.net/diesel/idmmod/index.htm, the correct Digikey numbers are there.
If that doesn't help then you might have messed something up.
ok got her goin put a 82,000 ohm resistor started right up runs good
#73
#74
The IDM 100's look like mine, and the 110's look like yours. They both work the same though.