When you start- make sure you have lots of time. Time is your friend while taking on this task.
Remove the coil packs and fill the spark plug hole with 1/2" of penetrating fluid and let it sit for at least 15 - 20 mins. You will need the special 9/16" socket designed for these plugs (I recommend also purchasing locking extensions). Take your time when removing the plug by turning an 1/8 of a turn forward and then back. Repeat until the plug is free. The ones that I broke didn't give me any warning, they just broke. From what I can tell, the section of plug after the threads siezes in the head. While removing them, the crud wedges it tighter and creates all sorts of issues. So like I said earlier, take your time.
Also, the TSB recomends to add a thin coat of anti-sieze to the smooth portion at the end of the plug.
Goo Luck!!
Last edited by 60fordman1971; 06-20-2009 at 11:33 PM.
Reason: added
Dunno if this has been discussed but is there a product that can be added to the fuel to soften the build up on the area of the plug in the combustion chamber before removing them? Seems like a million types of 'cleaners' out there for carbon, etc. Would running a couple tanks with some such product added prior to changing plugs help
When I changed mine at 70K I let them soak for 3-4 Hours and I broke 7. I would recommend using the recommended Motorcraft carb. cleaner to soak the plugs. I used DeepCreep and it did not work. The only plug that came out I left it until the next day. It was hard all the way out. Get the lisle tool to have it on hand.
Someone should know. Why does not ford have a recall or special policy on this repair. I work at a local body shop who does a lot of business with the ford dealership right up the road, maybe i should call the service manager, that i kind of know and ask him for a policy adjustment on the plugs.
When you start- make sure you have lots of time. Time is your friend while taking on this task.
Remove the coil packs and fill the spark plug hole with 1/2" of penetrating fluid and let it sit for at least 15 - 20 mins. You will need the special 9/16" socket designed for these plugs (I recommend also purchasing locking extensions). Take your time when removing the plug by turning an 1/8 of a turn forward and then back. Repeat until the plug is free. The ones that I broke didn't give me any warning, they just broke. From what I can tell, the section of plug after the threads siezes in the head. While removing them, the crud wedges it tighter and creates all sorts of issues. So like I said earlier, take your time.
Also, the TSB recomends to add a thin coat of anti-sieze to the smooth portion at the end of the plug.
Goo Luck!!
what? special 9/16" socket are you talking about
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ok, let me think and do some math, if it takes 1/2hr per broken plug to remove them with the lisle tool, then 4 hours + time to create access for passenger rear plugs and remove c.o.p.s. so your looking at 6-8 hours if your handy. if you follow the TSB, soak each plug for 15 to 20 minutes, you add 20 minutes if you do them all at the same time. Probably take 15 to 20 minutes a plug to work them out, if your lucky and don't break any. So, if you follow the TSB ( and I'm not saying not to!) your looking at 2 hr and 40 minutes to remove the plugs, 20 minutes to soak all the plugs, and 2-4hrs to create access to pass. side plugs, and remove c.o.p.s. (includes re-installation time).
2:40 + :20 plus 2 to 4 = 5 to 7 if you don't break any. if you break any, then add 30 minutes for every broken plug.
Ford dealers use the rotunda tool to fix this, which is not as fool-proof as the lisle tool seems to be. So if the ford dealer does this job, and screws it up with the rotunda tool, they will have to take the head(s) off. BIG $$$$$ if not under warranty.
So does it pay to be careful or patient with removing the plugs. Maybe not.
Zip them out, break them off, use the tool, and be done in 6-8 hours = $80 bucks for lisle tool (have seen them for $75 plus ship). + $100 for plugs ( have seen new one pc'ers for $11 plus tax.) and a bottle Kroil or PB blaster or your favorite penatrant. $8 bucks. (or less). = ~$200 bucks
Dealership service. Per hour + parts. 5-7 hours. Since they are 'professionals' lets say 6 hours of them following the TSB in the shop. last time I looked, the motorcraft two pc'ers were $18 a piece ($144) , My ford dealer has a big sign that says 65 per hour labor, so I'll use that. 6 x 65 = $390 labor. SO, $144 + $390 = $534 plus tax. Don't forget to add $65 for each 2 plugs that break while the tech is working on it. If they REALLY screw up, its likely be over a grand (total with plugs) to pop the heads. and more part costs too.
Yes, some dealers will feel bad for you and cut you a break on some of it. But don't count on it.
Just my perspective on this topic and humble opinion.
thanks for reading.
Now, If you would normally value your time as the labor higher than $65 an hour, then this argument does not work, but my time is not worth that much. So don't preach to me that you make more than 130K a year, and is not worth your time. ($65/hr x 2000hr a year).
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Fishin76, Plan on it being a weekend project and have the Lisle tool kit on hand. Use the Motorcraft Carb. cleaner on hand, let the engine cool off. Disconnect the battery. Loosen the plugs 1/8 turn and put the carb cleaner as per TSB. Let them soak overnight. I learned the hard way. Patience!!!! The next morning they will be easier to remove. To get access to the #4 plug you can unbolt and lay the PCM out of the way. If any do break off hope they are the front ones. Good luck.
Would anybody know what size vacuum cap to use if porcelin comes out? I have everything except them. Fords vacuum cap is 382444-s can't seem to be found. I know that I will use some grease but would like that extra protection. Any help on plug size would be great. Preparing for the worst.
Thx
Would anybody know what size vacuum cap to use if porcelin comes out? I have everything except them. Fords vacuum cap is 382444-s can't seem to be found. I know that I will use some grease but would like that extra protection. Any help on plug size would be great. Preparing for the worst.
Thx
Two possible suggestions:
1) Use a small wad of chewing gum
2) Cut a small wad of that gray/ black packing foam, it's compressable
Dunno if this has been discussed but is there a product that can be added to the fuel to soften the build up on the area of the plug in the combustion chamber before removing them? Seems like a million types of 'cleaners' out there for carbon, etc. Would running a couple tanks with some such product added prior to changing plugs help
I ran marvel Mystry Oil in every tank I used a month prior to changing my plugs. Every one came out like butter and I had 44,000miles on my truck prior to changing them. The Marvel Mystry Oil, has mint oil which disolves carbon. My plugs where pretty clean of carbon when I removed them. A couple of other members have tried my method and have had the same results.
I ran marvel Mystry Oil in every tank I used a month prior to changing my plugs. Every one came out like butter and I had 44,000miles on my truck prior to changing them. The Marvel Mystry Oil, has mint oil which disolves carbon. My plugs where pretty clean of carbon when I removed them. A couple of other members have tried my method and have had the same results.
I'm right there with ya! I have always run Marvel Mystery Oil in my vehicles and it really pays off! My plugs came out without any issues.
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