I never realized that I didn't post that I have the Matco Extraction tool. I was so stressed during this process that it doesn't suprise me I didn't mention that.
If I hard to do this again, I think I would buy this matco tool vs the one I bought.
FORD BROKEN PLUG REMOVER
Removes broken spark plugs from 2004 and newer Ford Triton 3 valve per cylinder engines.
Unique porcelain pusher is used to press the porcelain piece, without breaking the porcelain, farther into the plug tip.
Pushing the porcelain provides space for the left hand threaded remover to bite into the plug tip that is stuck in the head, so it can be puller.
Blow-molded storage case included.
Part#: BPR65 Price: $109.95
This is the one I used.
FORD SPARK PLUG EXTRACTOR
Specially designed guide works in conjunction with a 9" Tap and Extractor Screw to make sure the spark plug sleeve is tapped straight making it easier to extract
Pulls brokes spark plug sleeves out of 2004 to present Ford triton Engines
Part#: FSP100 Price: $81.95
The hardest part to this whole process is getting up the nerve to hammer away at the procelin. I had no idea that the metal tube that breaks off actually as a larger diameter at the plug body. I was afraid hammering it would cause it to drop down into the cylinder. But that's not the case.
Just for your info I didn't see it in here any where but on the new plugs put anti sieze on the electrode metal tip, not the threads or the very tip of the electrode. Part of the TSB. Helps cut down carbon build up on the tip. On my 05' F-150 I changed the plugs @ 40,000 miles and plan to do it again @ 80K. I have a socket that I use that is designed not to shift or angle when removing to prevent poss. breaking. I've done many plugs at the shop with no broken ones. Long method to type out my own concauction and chemical mixture. But it works the key is if they make noise coming out there ok. Well Congrats and good luck in the future.... Oh and by the way if anyone doesn't know DO NOT use autolite plugs in the 3V engine I've pulled out plugs that the electrode has melted at the tip.. Word to the wise.
I bought the Lisle tool and a Snapon tool, also. The Snapon toollooks identicle to the Rotunda tool in the picture but has a guided tap tool with the kit.
Glad you got them out. Please explain what you did during your attempt to remove. Did you follow the tSB? Did you crack them 1/16 of a turn and presoak with kroil????
Yup, followed the TSB, soaked in kroil and removed things like the PCM to gain access to the passenger side rear plugs. Then using a drift, ground to a sharp point. I hammered the remains of the porcelin until I could get the tap in a few threads. Then I just used the Matco tool to get the remains out.
Basically, if you follow the TSB and what many folks here and other sites list for methods, you'll be fine.
That said, I now have a the smell of raw fuel when I start my truck and as the days have gone on, it's getting stronger. Last night I replaced fuel injector orings, as I pulled one fuel rail to give me a little more access when breaking up the porcelin. I've looked all over the engine, and below. There's no sign of fuel. Now I'm thinking it could be associated with the EVAP purge valve, as I did remove one line (couldn't get the other off) and unbolted it from the firewall. Maybe I messed it up.
Never fails, fix one thing and something else happens.
When I used the Lisle tool I did not have to chip out any porcelain. I ran the pusher tool down once then removed and blew out chips and repeated the procedure. Then I installed the puller and removed the heatshields. The pusher tool pushes the porcelain down to the ground electode which makes enough room for the puller. I had to use the Snapon tool kit because I tightened the Lisle puller to tight and stripped out the top portion of the heatshield. Obviously operator malfuntion.
Sounds like that's a much better tool then what I used. But at this point, it's now just a paper weight, unless someone I know is going to attempt this job.
Yes, following the TSB reduces your chances for breaking plugs. It doesn't mean you absolutely wont break any. There's a thread here some place that has tons of posts with people who had sucess and others, like me, who had issues.
And unless you're using the specific chemicals as stated in the TSB anyone of us who used Kroil or other solvents, did not follow the TSB. Is that a factor, who knows.
If you choose to change them yourself, be prepared and understand the challenges associated with a simple plug change.
hey how you all doing today? i just bought a 2004 ford f150 with the 5.4 in it good running truck i really like it. its got 85,000 miles on it onlything i dont like is the spark plug problem i have not yet tryed gonna wait a little longer since they are 100,000 mile plugs but anyone have any ideas i can write down on a peice of paper or ideas so when its time to do the job i have a good idea what to do thank you all on hear
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