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This is on a 2000 F-250 Triton V-8 (I know, not diesel but you guys are the bomb)
I got a friend that is having to slam the shifter into park to get it to start. I know there is an adjustment some where under the dash or column.
Now I think of it, I believe he said the truck still wants to roll when he puts it in park so maybe the linkage to the tranny needs adjustment.
In either case where would be the best place to adjust. Please forgive me because I am more of a manual tranny guy.
Cable and Bracket Adjustment
Place the gearshift lever in the (D) position.
Place an eight pound weight on the gearshift lever. (Just apply some downward force on th lever)
Raise and support the vehicle.
Disconnect the transmission shift cable from the manual lever. (Lever on left side of Trans)
Unlock the lock tab on the transmission shift cable.
Place the manual control lever in the (D) position.
Place the manual control lever in the first gear position.
Move the manual control lever two detents to the (D) position.
Connect the transmission shift cable to the manual control lever.
Lock the transmission shift cable lock tab.
Lower the vehicle.
Carefully move the gearshift lever from detent to detent and compare with transmission settings. Verify that the vehicle will start in PARK or NEUTRAL and backup lamps illuminate in REVERSE. If not, Steps 1-5 must be repeated and include digital TR or TR sensor adjustment in NEUTRAL. Readjust if necessary. This picture may be showing the direction for re-latching the tab, but you get the idea.
__________________ Roland-
'01 F-250 Lariat CC SB 4x4, DP Tuner F6 (live tuned), AFE II w/ Pete's Cover, GTP38R w/ Riffraff billet whl & 1.15, 6.0 Techni-cooler IC, Full Force SS Injectors, Stealth HPOP, Fluidampr, Melling M-208, Walbro FP, mueckster Reg Return & Bowl delete, 910 Springs, mueckster 4R100, 4" SS MBRP, 6.0 Trans Cooler, billet 710 cap, Truetrac rear
PAA Member #62... From Rock to Rocket-- Thanks to the Brotherhood.
Basically what we are doing is just removing the cable from the lever on the tranny. Then cycling the tranny thru a couple of gears and reattaching it to the cable.
It should then be readjusted.
Do you think this can be done with no tools?
I would assume at a minimum some pliers would be useful. Sorry for the dumb questions, I don't have it in my posession right now to look at it and don't have my tools with me.
Basically what we are doing is just removing the cable from the lever on the tranny. Then cycling the tranny thru a couple of gears and reattaching it to the cable.
It should then be readjusted.
Do you think this can be done with no tools?
I would assume at a minimum some pliers would be useful. Sorry for the dumb questions, I don't have it in my posession right now to look at it and don't have my tools with me.
Pliers and a screwdriver should be all you'd need. The tab will release and allow for the "teeth" on the cable end to slide to a new position, if necessary, to adjust the length.
__________________ Roland-
'01 F-250 Lariat CC SB 4x4, DP Tuner F6 (live tuned), AFE II w/ Pete's Cover, GTP38R w/ Riffraff billet whl & 1.15, 6.0 Techni-cooler IC, Full Force SS Injectors, Stealth HPOP, Fluidampr, Melling M-208, Walbro FP, mueckster Reg Return & Bowl delete, 910 Springs, mueckster 4R100, 4" SS MBRP, 6.0 Trans Cooler, billet 710 cap, Truetrac rear
PAA Member #62... From Rock to Rocket-- Thanks to the Brotherhood.
What would cause a sloppy feeling shifter to 'snag' going from N to P? (Parked the truck, and it apparently wasn't all the way in P... rolled down the driveway towards a neighbours SUV... the repairs of which I'll be paying out of pocket.)
Still snags a little bit every time I put it in park, although I'm pretty diligent now about double checking it and using the parking brake. Has anyone else run into something like this? I'm too afraid to let my wife drive it... or more importantly... park.
__________________
RoB
F250 2WD Crew w/ bigger torque converter, ISSpro guages
Recently installed: 6637 intake, MBRP 4" exhaust, Riffraff High Pressure Crossover, Garrett Power Max BB turbo, Stage 2 Single Shot Injectors and DP tuner. Thanks to Clay at Riffraff. The cup holders previously mentioned in my sig. are going to have to wait.
What would cause a sloppy feeling shifter to 'snag' going from N to P? (Parked the truck, and it apparently wasn't all the way in P... rolled down the driveway towards a neighbours SUV... the repairs of which I'll be paying out of pocket.)
Still snags a little bit every time I put it in park, although I'm pretty diligent now about double checking it and using the parking brake. Has anyone else run into something like this? I'm too afraid to let my wife drive it... or more importantly... park.
Sucks about the incident.
Try some of these yours is likely the first link with the torx screws being loose they can be tough to see, but once you know where they are you'll understand what they do, one of mine was actually sheared off, I reinstalled allen head bolts with locktite to prevent them from loosening up any more.
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Thanks to Clay at Riffraff. The cup holders previously mentioned in my sig. are going to have to wait.
