How do you remove the lower radiator hose on a 1997 expedition? I tried everything with in my limit to remove it. I pushed the tab back, tried to twist 45 deg. to either side and nothing. I would rather not cut the existing hose. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
NOT to thread jack, but I'm sure he's going to be in the same boat as I am once he gets it off, HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET IT BACK ON?. I broke the plasitic tank on mine, ordered a oem replacement, added the 2 rings to the lower connector, and then bolted the radiator back in place. It was a bear, but I was able to at least get the new hose assembly started onto the radiator. It doesn't just want to push on that's for sure, I used a screw driver and gently pushed on the metal ring the same way I push the tab flat, but barely got it to the first oring. I have the old radiator, and the old hose, and have cut the metal end out of the old hose so I can see how it lines up on the bottom, so I can confirm that I am at the correct location for the hose to completely go on, but 3 hours later, its gone nowhere fast. I even went online to waste my money at mitchell1's eautorepair (Can you say biggest WASTE of money ever, they dont even mention a lower radiator hose in any of the documents you can read, I guess its just magic or something..)
Thanks in advance, sorry to thread jack lilslammer, but your gonna have this question next...
Thanks, 1 more question. My truck was bought used, and I'm guessing that the previous owner didnt realize that the tab'ed fitting was on the radiator, as when I removed my readiator, the fitting was still on the lower radiator fitting. Looking at the old hose, it looks like someone cut off the plastic trim that works with the weird fitting on the end of the hose and simply stretched the now 1/2" shorter hose onto the nipple and used a traditional hose clamp.
My question, is do I need to still use a hose clamp? I'm figuring since it has such an elaborate lower hose connection, that it is supposed to replace the need for a hose clamp.
I appreciate all your feedback. I'm made the assumption that it would be easy to remove. "Wrong" is an understatement. Once I turned the hose 45 degrees, I had to pull and wiggle like hell. Was not easy but I did not give up. Went back on the new radiator the same way. No leaks.
quiuck connects my ***. I spent 3 hours yesturday and another 2 today. Vaselline, a&d (cause I ran out of vasaline the first 5 attempts saturday.) I'm actually temping takeing the radiator out again. Of course, I dont have a OEM radiator. Well its supposed to be OEM, but who knows here it claims oem replacemet -> 98 1998 Ford Expedition All Aluminum Radiator | GenesisAutoParts.com
With the vaseline, the thing slipped right on to about 1/4 inch or so (just barely past the 2 ring) and the rear hose then almost poped onto the back by itself, it almost looks like the tab started to rotate closer to the place where you bend the tab, but by pushing back just a bit, I can tell its barely over the 2nd ring.
I've disconnected the rear hose, and twisted, I even pulled the rear hose back over against the frame there, hoping that it would push itself on. Im going to pull it off one more time (Not easy as you said). And make sure I have the entire metal portion of the inside of the hose coated, then Im bringing the hose out and cutting the plastic piece off and taking the metal out, what the hell is wrong with hose clamps anyway, why all the hokus pokus crap..
Anone in San Diego want to make 100 bucks, seriously, this is BS...
I never got it past the 2nd ring, the metal the tab is on, is barely over the 2nd ring. but the damb hose rotates into the "tabbed" position, Makes no sense, I didn't think it would turn until it was all the way on. Anyways, the two of us couldn't get it on any deeper so I said what the hell, and pushed all the other hoses onto their corresponding locations, and put adjustable hose clamps on the block side, the reservoir, and the 2 going to heater. and started it up (didn't put anything on the fitting going to the lower radiator, as I said, only push on 7/8 and twisted to resting location. No leaks, I let it run, turning on the heater and ran it until the air got hot, ran it another 5 minutes and then turned off the heater. The truck barely got to 1/2 way, and held there. I seem to remember that there was a weird procedure on the trucks since they don't have a radiator cap at the top for air to be forced to, but as it sits right now, its not leaking, (I'm debating on 2 options, take it to our local mechanic or cut the ring off with a portable dremel and dismantle it off the radiator and then attach it with a clamp, I need the truck wed, and with work, I only have a few hours each night, so trying to get it on, I dont have the time, I'll pay for a shop or do the cut, anyone want to tell my why I cant do the cut (especially if I don't shorten the hose length making a gap stretch? I seem to remember once the plastic is off, the hose will pull apart from the metal contraption inside it, leaving me a OEM hose, minus 1/4" or so with no sleeve in the middle?
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.