just lik it sounds .. I think my return lines? might have a hole because if its sat for a couple hours it will fire right up then choke and die then i have to reprime it and that is not good on my new starter! so is this a return line prob? cuz after i get it started it runs like a champ and even after i shut it off i can start it back up no prob in a hour or so but any longer and i gotta reprime.. so input and words of wisdom always welcome lol but i would seriously like laymens terms and pics ! thank you
__________________ 1984 f250 6.9 idi diesel 4x4 with a borg warner t19 4 speed manual with a granny gear, 7.5" western unimount plow... ROLLIN' COAL!
'96 F350 crew cab XLT dually 2wd alcoa wheels 7.3 PSD E4OD ,300,000 miles+
64,999,987 firearms owners killed noone yesterday. protect our second amendment
duck tape the hole that should fix it u better be geting reading to wope ur buddys dodge and it not hard to change them out take off the air cleaner from there its easy to c what u have to do
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85 ford f350 lifted 11 inch 37 6.9 t19 my freinds call it the panzer
lol true joe... but are the return lines just the rubber pieces in between the injectors or do they go all the way to the tanks?
__________________ 1984 f250 6.9 idi diesel 4x4 with a borg warner t19 4 speed manual with a granny gear, 7.5" western unimount plow... ROLLIN' COAL!
'96 F350 crew cab XLT dually 2wd alcoa wheels 7.3 PSD E4OD ,300,000 miles+
64,999,987 firearms owners killed noone yesterday. protect our second amendment
Joe, I tried using ducks once, but they got away...
Isn't there a FAQ somewhere on how to do this yet?
It's really easy to figure out -- I did it once before I knew about this forum.
It's probably not worth fixing a leak at one of the injectors if you can see it because it will likely just move to the next one (others have had luck with this, though). Get the kit and be done with it. Of course, the leak could be at the filter or lines to the tank. Look for obvious leaks first.
Be careful not to kink the steel lines or cross-thread the nuts on the injectors.
Take one side off at a time and make up a duplicate on the bench and install it all at once.
Use lube on the o-rings when installing them and be extra careful not to cut them.
make sure the caps are all the way down when you're done.
Once the leak is gone, don't move anything or it may start leaking again.
mine had a leak between the fuel filter and ip i put a little teflon tape on the fittings and it stoped it, mine would do the same thing yours does.
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1986 ford f250 XLT Lariat 4x4 6.9 n/a, t19,285/75/16 maxxis mudders, on gun metal grey wagon wheels,Brand new BB code injectors from typ4, rebuilt ip set to 4??? rpm, really advanced timing, glow plug delete mod, soup bowl and restrictor plate gone, equis performance water temp, and oil pressure gauges, factory tach, putting a non wastegated psd turbo on it very soon, and going to run isspro boost and pyro gauges and maybe isspro tach along with factory tach just for kicks and giggles
LOL I NEED PICTURES! im new to these engines and what not so im not gonna try and b.s. my way through it , i know where the ip is and fuel filter dyoung14 but wouldnt it be the hose instead of the fittings? how can i find this leak?
__________________ 1984 f250 6.9 idi diesel 4x4 with a borg warner t19 4 speed manual with a granny gear, 7.5" western unimount plow... ROLLIN' COAL!
'96 F350 crew cab XLT dually 2wd alcoa wheels 7.3 PSD E4OD ,300,000 miles+
64,999,987 firearms owners killed noone yesterday. protect our second amendment
mine had a leak between the fuel filter and ip i put a little teflon tape on the fittings and it stoped it, mine would do the same thing yours does.
He means the fuel supply line. This is the hard line going from the filter to the injector pump.
The return lines are little rubber pipes going along the tops of the injectors and then back to the filter head. These are easy to replace. However you have to be careful not to disturb the little pipe fittings on the injectors in case you start a leak there. Probably best to replace the "O" rings on them while you are at it.
There was a thread on here not too long ago giving the length and dia of pipe you need with the "O" ring size and costing just a few $. You might find it if you do a search.
Finding an air leak can be a real PITA so good luck.
LOL I NEED PICTURES! im new to these engines and what not so im not gonna try and b.s. my way through it , i know where the ip is and fuel filter dyoung14 but wouldnt it be the hose instead of the fittings? how can i find this leak?
when mine was leaking i could see a little diesel fuel laying on my valley pan, take you air cleaner off and look behind the intake opening(were it sucks air in) and see if you see any diesel laying on the back of the valley pan.
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1986 ford f250 XLT Lariat 4x4 6.9 n/a, t19,285/75/16 maxxis mudders, on gun metal grey wagon wheels,Brand new BB code injectors from typ4, rebuilt ip set to 4??? rpm, really advanced timing, glow plug delete mod, soup bowl and restrictor plate gone, equis performance water temp, and oil pressure gauges, factory tach, putting a non wastegated psd turbo on it very soon, and going to run isspro boost and pyro gauges and maybe isspro tach along with factory tach just for kicks and giggles
He means the fuel supply line. This is the hard line going from the filter to the injector pump.
The return lines are little rubber pipes going along the tops of the injectors and then back to the filter head. These are easy to replace. However you have to be careful not to disturb the little pipe fittings on the injectors in case you start a leak there. Probably best to replace the "O" rings on them while you are at it.
There was a thread on here not too long ago giving the length and dia of pipe you need with the "O" ring size and costing just a few $. You might find it if you do a search.
Finding an air leak can be a real PITA so good luck.
alright awesome ya those pieces of tubing arent lookin the greatest and the injector closest to the front on drivers side (not sure which cylinder) i see fuel comin out occasionally but have not seen that for awhile.. ive seen a fuel return kit that has everything in it from pensicola diesel is this kit any good? its like 32 bucks
__________________ 1984 f250 6.9 idi diesel 4x4 with a borg warner t19 4 speed manual with a granny gear, 7.5" western unimount plow... ROLLIN' COAL!
'96 F350 crew cab XLT dually 2wd alcoa wheels 7.3 PSD E4OD ,300,000 miles+
64,999,987 firearms owners killed noone yesterday. protect our second amendment
Buy the kit, I have not seen that kit, don't know what type of hose and o-rings are used, I buy from Napa, it's expensive ($65) but has good hose and viton o-rings.
If you have fuel leaking, you definitely have air leaks... Air molecules are smaller than Diesel molecules.
ya im alomost positive I have an air leak because why else would I have to reprime it?
__________________ 1984 f250 6.9 idi diesel 4x4 with a borg warner t19 4 speed manual with a granny gear, 7.5" western unimount plow... ROLLIN' COAL!
'96 F350 crew cab XLT dually 2wd alcoa wheels 7.3 PSD E4OD ,300,000 miles+
64,999,987 firearms owners killed noone yesterday. protect our second amendment
#1 Buy a return line kit. You can get by with 16 #11 orings and some fuel line but there is always the chance of cracking on of the T's or one being distorted, so if you don't have any extra ones then buy the kit. (called an injector install kit).
#2 Remove air cleaner.
#3 Lay several layers of newspaper or equivilent on wifes or mothers dining room table.
(this step is the most important)
#4 Clean off all injector line fittings. (you don't want any dirt or grime getting into the open injectors).
#5 Disconect one whole bank of injector line nuts on the injectors. (no need to mess with them at the pump)
#6 Remove the clamps on the ends of that side and pop off the plastic T's one at a time, but leave the whole bank in one piece, one at a time use a little pressure to raise the injector line just enough to remove the T.
#6 Now you can carry the four T's and the hoses still connected into the dining room and lay on the newspaper, this is your pattern. Caution it is best the first time to allow at least 2 hours time before wife or mother is expected to return for this step.
#7 Cut your new hose to the exact lenghts as the old ones one at a time installing the hose and new clamps on the T's when you have all 4 together matching your pattern exactly.
#8 Lube the new orings and carefully install them on the injectors.
#9 Now install back on engine making sure each cap snaps all the way down on the injector. (you have the other side to look at and in a quiet place you should hear/feel the caps snap as they seat)
#10 Reinstall injector line nuts taking care not to crossthread them..
#11 Repeat steps for other side.
#12 Clean up newspaper and remove from house there is always going to be a little diesel smell, so it is best to now go to the bar before wife or mother shows up and take your time telling your buddys all about it. use caution here it is best to go home as soon as bar closes not wait until the next morning they will still mention the diesel smell but you won't mind as much and if you wait longer they will always read something silly into it.
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absolutely no dodges.
to many fords to list.
one town car.
If it breaks because of my advice
you can keep both halves
#1 Buy a return line kit. You can get by with 16 #11 orings and some fuel line but there is always the chance of cracking on of the T's or one being distorted, so if you don't have any extra ones then buy the kit. (called an injector install kit).
#2 Remove air cleaner.
#3 Lay several layers of newspaper or equivilent on wifes or mothers dining room table.
(this step is the most important)
#4 Clean off all injector line fittings. (you don't want any dirt or grime getting into the open injectors.
#5 Disconect one whole bank of injector line nuts on the injectors. (no need to mess with them at the pump)
#6 Remove the clamps on the ends of that side and pop off the plastic T's one at a time, but leave the whole bank in one piece, one at a time use a little pressure to raise the injector line just enough to remove the T.
#6 Now you can carry the four T's and the hoses still connected into the dining room and lay on the newspaper, this is your pattern. Caution it is best the first time to allow at least 2 hours time before wife or mother is expected to return for this step.
#7 lube the new orings and carefully install them on the injectors then cut your new hose to the exact lenghts as the old ones one at a time installing the hose and new clamps on the T's. when you have all 4 together matching your pattern exactly.
#8 now install back on engine making sure each cap snaps all the way down on the injector. (you have the other side to look at).
#9 reinstall injector line caps takink care not to crossthread them..
#10 repeat steps for other side.
#11 clean up newspaper and remove from house there is always going to be a little diesel smell, so it is best to now go to the bar before wife or mother shows up and take your time telling your buddys all about it. use caution here it is best to go home as soon as bar closes not wait until the next morning they will still mention the diesel smell but you won't mind as much and if you wait longer they will always read something silly into it.
lol dude your hilarious.. but very informative thank you it sounds pretty simple i think i can manage it .. and caps being the metal lines that goes to injectors?
__________________ 1984 f250 6.9 idi diesel 4x4 with a borg warner t19 4 speed manual with a granny gear, 7.5" western unimount plow... ROLLIN' COAL!
'96 F350 crew cab XLT dually 2wd alcoa wheels 7.3 PSD E4OD ,300,000 miles+
64,999,987 firearms owners killed noone yesterday. protect our second amendment
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