Towing behind my motorhome?
#1
Towing behind my motorhome?
I'm confused. I have a 2008 RC F150 4x2 with the V-6 and manual 5 speed transmission.
Motorhome Magazine's annual publication says this configuration was fine for towing without any modification.
My owners manual, which doesn't differentiate between different engine and transmission combinations says no. The manual on Ford's website says yes with the stipulation that you limit the speed and number of miles.
I don't want to put a driveline disconnect in if I don't have to. All the mechanics (non Ford) I have talked to think it should be just fine. Any thoughts or opinions out there?
Thanks.
Michael
Motorhome Magazine's annual publication says this configuration was fine for towing without any modification.
My owners manual, which doesn't differentiate between different engine and transmission combinations says no. The manual on Ford's website says yes with the stipulation that you limit the speed and number of miles.
I don't want to put a driveline disconnect in if I don't have to. All the mechanics (non Ford) I have talked to think it should be just fine. Any thoughts or opinions out there?
Thanks.
Michael
#2
well, I would have just said to put in neutral and tow away. but check out the link below. It very clearly says "NO"...but if you look at the Ranger version...says Yes.
Here is the towing guide for the 2008 models
https://www.fleet.ford.com/showroom/...08_default.asp
and here is the specific "Flat Tow" guide
https://www.fleet.ford.com/showroom/...wdtowSep08.pdf
Here is the towing guide for the 2008 models
https://www.fleet.ford.com/showroom/...08_default.asp
and here is the specific "Flat Tow" guide
https://www.fleet.ford.com/showroom/...wdtowSep08.pdf
#3
Ive always been under the impression that if its a stick shift 2wd its fine. My wifes grandparents tow an 2003 F150 Lariat with a stick shift behind their rig and have towed it for thousands of miles and havent had an issue. My boss towed his 02 Ram with a stick all the way from florida on a tow bar and it was fine. Maybe check with your local rv dealer and ask how many stick pickups their customers tow and if they have heard of any problems. Maybe someone in the towing/trailer section of the forum may be of assistance, theres lots of folks there that are in the rv business that would know for sure.
#4
I would go with the Motorhome Magazine info. Many car manufacturers put out a flat "no" or silly limitations on speed or distance to avoid the remote possibililty of being liable for damage done by idiots. If you are careful each time you hookup (go slow and refer to a connnection checklist that you prepared in advance) then you will be fine.
#5
I don't think you can because the differential will spin and burn up your gear box. The only safe way to do this, for both autos and manuals, is to start the vehicle, put it in drive, then neutral, and leave the car running. The running car will then pump and cool the fluid. Otherwise you're looking at the need to disconnect....If you don't want to disconnect, just tow a trailer for it, it's much much safer that way.
#7
I don't think you can because the differential will spin and burn up your gear box. The only safe way to do this, for both autos and manuals, is to start the vehicle, put it in drive, then neutral, and leave the car running. The running car will then pump and cool the fluid. Otherwise you're looking at the need to disconnect....If you don't want to disconnect, just tow a trailer for it, it's much much safer that way.
I thought all manuals were splash lubed myself.
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#8
The Towing and RV guide was revised in September 2008 to reflect the change which was long after I bought it.
Remco (who makes the driveline disconnects) was not aware of the recommendation that this vehicle not be towed 4 wheels down. We are working with them now to see if they can and will build me one all balanced and ready to go.
Does anyone out there need a perfectly good driveline?
Remco (who makes the driveline disconnects) was not aware of the recommendation that this vehicle not be towed 4 wheels down. We are working with them now to see if they can and will build me one all balanced and ready to go.
Does anyone out there need a perfectly good driveline?
#9
wouldn't it be cheaper to just buy a small double axle trailer for the truck?
Yours is a reg cab short bed right?
I can't see a good condition used trailer being more than $1-2,000...and you'd get a couple of benefits.
1. Trailer - always come in handy
2. Truck isn't rolling on the road - less wear/tear on the tires and suspension
3. You can put a air dam on the front of the trailer - keep your RV from throwing road debris on the truck front end
I've never been a fan of flat towing. I flat towed my 1993 Bronco from South Carolina to Seattle. But I ended up pulling the front/rear driveshafts for that.
Yours is a reg cab short bed right?
I can't see a good condition used trailer being more than $1-2,000...and you'd get a couple of benefits.
1. Trailer - always come in handy
2. Truck isn't rolling on the road - less wear/tear on the tires and suspension
3. You can put a air dam on the front of the trailer - keep your RV from throwing road debris on the truck front end
I've never been a fan of flat towing. I flat towed my 1993 Bronco from South Carolina to Seattle. But I ended up pulling the front/rear driveshafts for that.
The front wheels made backing up a major PITA...I meant to say not an option. Ever seen Maximum Overdrive. That was me in the U-Haul and my Bronco. Kept circling the gas stations trying to get into a good spot.
oh, and the joy of leaving the key in the ignition to unlock the steering wheel caused the battery to go dead
oh, and the joy of leaving the key in the ignition to unlock the steering wheel caused the battery to go dead
#10
wouldn't it be cheaper to just buy a small double axle trailer for the truck?
Yours is a reg cab short bed right?
I can't see a good condition used trailer being more than $1-2,000...and you'd get a couple of benefits.
1. Trailer - always come in handy
2. Truck isn't rolling on the road - less wear/tear on the tires and suspension
3. You can put a air dam on the front of the trailer - keep your RV from throwing road debris on the truck front end
I've never been a fan of flat towing. I flat towed my 1993 Bronco from South Carolina to Seattle. But I ended up pulling the front/rear driveshafts for that.
Yours is a reg cab short bed right?
I can't see a good condition used trailer being more than $1-2,000...and you'd get a couple of benefits.
1. Trailer - always come in handy
2. Truck isn't rolling on the road - less wear/tear on the tires and suspension
3. You can put a air dam on the front of the trailer - keep your RV from throwing road debris on the truck front end
I've never been a fan of flat towing. I flat towed my 1993 Bronco from South Carolina to Seattle. But I ended up pulling the front/rear driveshafts for that.
The front wheels made backing up a major PITA...I meant to say not an option. Ever seen Maximum Overdrive. That was me in the U-Haul and my Bronco. Kept circling the gas stations trying to get into a good spot.
oh, and the joy of leaving the key in the ignition to unlock the steering wheel caused the battery to go dead
oh, and the joy of leaving the key in the ignition to unlock the steering wheel caused the battery to go dead
#12
I think what you're confused by is thinking that when it is in neutral that the tranny isn't turning, which is wrong. The drive shaft turns when the wheels it's connected to turns, and thus you're turning the tranny gears, it's only the motor that's disconnected from the mix when in neutral.
#13
For an automatic tranny you might need to install a lube pump, I think remco makes those as well, For a manual I would think just put it in neutral but there still may be limitations, Also check your weight restrictions for towing my MH is limited to 5000 lbs. but the gcwr limits the weight.
#14
#15
[quote=Oldguy4;7424493]This is not true. Even in a manual tranny, the input yoke turning is what provides lubrication. While you can go much farther, you're still limited on heat buildup as output yoke will not get lubed without it. You are loosing lubrication in any method you use other than flatbed towing and you are tearing at it's lifespan.