Hey Mikey, I don't want you to do the same thing this time when breaking in the cam. When you install it all, 460's run at "0.00" lash. When you get it all assembled, I want you to leave the rockers just a little tiny bit loose on the push rods. Tighten them to the point that they just wiggle a little. Then run it for break in. After you do that, I want you to adjust the valves to 0.00 lash. That is spec for 460 Ford motors. Most of the instructions from the cam suppliers are pretty generic. Make sure you coat the wholy living heck out the cam and lifters. Get back to me.....I spent several hours lookinginto your problem, and am trying to keep it from happening again.

 

ok, joe. i just have a few questions for u can u email me your Ph.# or give me your email and ill give u my # . i just want to confirm a couple things the my builder told me and what the comp tech said jst to be safe.

 

I got your e-mail message....mine is wmjoe1953@msn.com...Number is 541-279-1157.

 

Seeing this kind of stuff is why I joined the chapter

 

I think that's why most of us joined. It's a place to find good info, and ask the questions you have. Welcome to the boards. Generally, we are a pretty easy going bunch. We like to flick eachother some BS, but in the end, we are all in the same hobby (may be for different reasons, but in the same hobby just the same). I'm kind of the resident old Ford Big Job guru. Fabman, is like the resident good friend to have on your side kind of guru (and a pretty gald darned smart old fart too.). We have many others, that fill the little gaps here and there. I could probably make a list of all the things everyone brings to the table, but I really don't think I could sit here and willingly type an encyclopedia sized post. I am the engine builder for the shop I work at, and the boss is a NHRA, AHDRA, driver, and builder. He has been the crew chief on a few big name bike teams, and is one hell of mechanic (you should see his 55 Chevy Gasser we built last winter....blower and all.....talk about a neck snapping experience). So, if I can't answer it from my own personal knowledge, I can ask the boss, and odds are, he knows the answer right off the top of his head.

 

FTE is a community. Our chapter is like an extended family! Posting in the chapters is a lot less formal than in the tech forums, and is a place for us to talk about most anything like kids, family, hobbies, pet peeves, crappy jobs, etc. There is a huge amount of knowledge everywhere you go on FTE, and a willingness to share that does not exist on any other forum out there!

Joe, do you still do your "run in" "old school" at 2,000 rpm for 10 minutes? Most of the cam, and lifter problems I've seen are from guys running in their engines at to low an rpm...............

 

Yup. The lifters gotta spin and the won't spin at a speed under about 1000. That spin is what polishes the cam lobes with out cutting a groove. It's not actually the lifters that are failing. what causes a flat cam at break in is the lack of spin, since the cam is rough when new, except roller cams. That roughness has to get polished by the lifter , and that happens with the spin. It doesn't take 20 minutes though, it only takes about 5-10.

 

If you look again Joe I said 10 min!

 

OOPS.....I gotcha. Must of been distracted by the kids.

 

ok joe check out wooohooo i posted some recent info for ya. also i bought a digital micromater and check the lifter bore ther all beetween .874/.876 dont for get to check my other post. thanks bro

 

NEW parts here tommorrow joe, woohoo.

 

Take your time, and do it right. Dont try to hurry it back into the truck, plenty of spring and summer left.

 

With the lack of specific oil additives in standard automotive brands to meet EPA requirements do you add a lubricant or run diesel engine oil for break in?

 

well, Shell rotella T still has it, Valvoline VR1 Has lots of it.
but im still gonna through a bottle it just to play it safe.
i also found out Lunati Racing has a break in oil u can us that does not hav to be taken out after break in. i mean once break in is done u cann use it with your regular oil changes. it has lots of zinc phos.and a bit of molly i think but its zinc phos for sure. any way thay claim u can run it as the needed addative.