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  #61  
Old 09-06-2011, 04:15 PM
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sclafanibuilders sclafanibuilders is offline
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I installed the 2" plastic ones on my 08 2wd 5.4. They went in fine, but had to replace my shocks with daystar scorpions that were 2.5" longer, as the stock shocks were maxxed out. I also used a +-4 degree camber bushing. to get the positive camber back in line. After it was all said and done, I was within a half inch from the rear.
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  #62  
Old 09-06-2011, 05:13 PM
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I installed the Daystar KF 09101 Br leveling kit on my truck without no grinding. Yes I had to align the vehicle after as the settings did change. I just installed new wheels and tires and wanted to re-align my truck, but before that, I just ordered the Moog K80109 adjustable camber/caster bushings. These bushings are great as you have lots of adjustment from one bushing.

Here is my original install: http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...a/P1010594.jpg
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  #63  
Old 09-06-2011, 08:36 PM
StealthAssassin StealthAssassin is offline
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Did you see that I have a 2 1/2 bushing? There is no more adjustment than that.
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  #64  
Old 09-06-2011, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthAssassin View Post
Did you see that I have a 2 1/2 bushing? There is no more adjustment than that.
The moog adjustable bushings are 0-4
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  #65  
Old 09-06-2011, 11:22 PM
StealthAssassin StealthAssassin is offline
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How can you get the ball joint any closer than this? There is hardly any space left.
Click the image to open in full size.
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  #66  
Old 09-07-2011, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by MiamiPSD View Post
The moog adjustable bushings are 0-4
The best one line of advice or tip I've got on this project so far! Daystar tech boys could not even give me this much! I believe this will do it.
Thank you!
Click the image to open in full size.
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  #67  
Old 09-07-2011, 01:45 PM
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Glad to help. As you see the camber and caster settings are separate adjustments not like the 2.5 pills you have now which you change settings in both camber and caster as you turn the pill. This is the same idea we use in our racing karts.
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  #68  
Old 09-15-2011, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthAssassin View Post
The best one line of advice or tip I've got on this project so far! Daystar tech boys could not even give me this much! I believe this will do it.
Thank you!
Click the image to open in full size.
Where did you pick those up from? Cost? Thanks!
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  #69  
Old 09-15-2011, 04:15 PM
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Autopartsexpress has the best priced. I paid 18.37 plus shipping
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  #70  
Old 02-19-2013, 02:32 PM
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To the OP, I too just bought the 2 inch spacer kit from FatBobs Garage, Part Number 20200-2WDSD for 2011 2WD. After removing the bottom white phenalic spacers from under the spring, my instructions stated to just install the new 2" spacer, not "with" the OEM spacer too. Even if I would have tried, I'm not sure it would have been a grand idea. I found the black FB's spacers to quite fitting for the app. I think I may have to go with the Daystar Scorpions shocks now. I selected a Monroe Reflex P/N 911766 shock to try and install but come to find out the lower mount hole for the 4WD is 9/16 where as the 2WD is 5/8. (Go figure) So, with the help of some old buds, we think we found a suitable fit for the added heighth. Monroe has one possible that's a Sensa-Trac and KYB has 2 options that may work. Not sure about the KYB as I don't want to lose the factory ride up front.
FYI to the other who posted about the camber specs, I soon could tell when I put the spacers in, I was going positive on the camber. When I lowered the truck...yep..big time. So, I got it back on jacks and looked at the bushing set-up. The stock camber has a tab that you can only lineup with the gap on the arm. Well, here in a pinch(no pun) with no new bushings at hand, I decided to grind off the OEM tab and make the bushing adjustable/rotatable. Did that, installed and could tell it helped but we'll see what the alignment shop says. I have got a set of adjustables from Napa that are +/- 2.0 degrees. More to follow on this.
With the upgrade to 20" wheels and the leveling kit, my wheel well heights are(to bottom edge of lip): Rear = 40 3/8" Front = 40 1/8" Perfect in my mind.
Hope my first post on this forum helps someone; I perused here on this thread and got some good info before I joined and posted this. THANKS!!
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  #71  
Old 08-15-2013, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthAssassin View Post
How can you get the ball joint any closer than this? There is hardly any space left.
Click the image to open in full size.
I also ran into same problem as Op installing a 2'' level kit. What I did was cut 3/16 of the threads from the actual bolt on the truck. Still has enough threads if I one day want to take off level kit. Then the alighment guy( this guy knew wat he was doing) told me to stay away from the dual bushing cams. He said it is a pain in the *** to adjust them later on because they get so tight. He put the truck on the alighment computer and gave me a 2.75 cam for drivers side and 2.25 for passenger. He said go home and grind till they fit.. That's what I did and as he put the truck back on the computer I saw green for both tires for camber... then he adjusted the toe... as for the pic above ... I had to grind the corner and make it round where the bolt is for the upper ball joint to clear it on both sides. It was just the corners that faced to the rear of the truck I rounded. For clearance of the bolt, I barely ground some off the knuckle to make it clear.....
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  #72  
Old 12-26-2013, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBoat View Post
...Rusty, if your alignment guy cant get it aligned find another front end guy because it can be done...

I use Hickman's in Ft. Pierce. They can align anything, trucks, buses, motor coachs, swamp buggies. Said it could be done, but it wouldn't be right. If it ain't right, I don't do it.
I gave up on this a long time ago.

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Old 12-26-2013, 08:43 PM
 
 
 
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