Anybody do this to there truck. Is it an easy to do job or difficult. Just wanting to find out before I tear in to the job. Tools needed.

 

Done it a 100 times. just have a manual handy for the correct way to tighten them, you will need the socket for the spindle nut and a torque wrench too. Have lots of brake cleaner or a parts washer don't use compressed air to dry them! surgical gloves are nice to have to save your hands and YOU MUST KEEP ALL DIRT OUT, use new rags and lots of them! Buy new wheel bearing seals as you can't get the rear bearing out without removing the seal which will destroy it. make sure everthing is spotlessly clean before re greasing. make sure you get the lock ring right but the manual will go over all that. It is not hard at all just very messy!

 

Guess that depends on what year truck you are asking about????

Your profile says you have a 2003.....not greasable, replacement only.

 

Now Im confused is are these bearings greasable or what. Fill me in with more info.So you just repalce the bearings instead off repack them.

 

What truck are you working on? 2wd or 4x4?

 

You need to fill us in with more information.
What year truck you asking about?
2wd or 4 wd?

 

I have a 96 an a 2003 F 250 4wd to do some front end maintenance. Sorry should have clarified.

 

Why not clean bearings with compressed air? Soon as they are washed, compressed air will do nothing bad to them.

The super duties have bearing packs, which are a whole unit you have to replace. Expensive. They make a replacement kit. (i know nothign about it)
For the 96, you can pull bearings and repack.
If you set them right, you shoudln't have to worry bout it to much.

 

I was always told never blow them dry as in holding them on the inside and blowing them so they will spin. Something to do with them spinning with no lube on them can score them.....I don't know just the way I learned it when I was a kid. I do blow them dry just never let them spin.

 

Ok, the newer trucks (newer then 1997) that are four wheel drive (don't know about the 2 wheel drives) have what they call unit bearings where you unbolt the whole asembly and replace it. They last a very long time normally and are VERY expensive to replace, they are not servicable, no greasing just replace them. Our 97 and older trucks still have the tried and true greasable wheel bearings that are messy to repack and do need to be I beleive they say every 30,000 miles. Its not a bad job and is cheap compared to the Unit bearings even if you have to replace them.

 

I learned in school that if you hit a roller bearing with compressed air that they will actually spin up so fast that they will explode. Its written in bold letters in some of my books with CAUTION! written next to it. One of my buddies actually made a remote air rig up where he could be safe and sure enough them suckers will make a horrific noise then self destruct.
-----------Jeremy

 

Manual locking hubs or the automatic ones.

 

Damn, I have yet to have a bearing explode, or a mechanic tell me not to do it.

The metal is so hard, if you have cleaned them properly, they will not score.
And for it falling apart, it should be replaced if it is going to fall apart from being spun.

 

It's really not necessary to repack the bearings unless you need to go in for other repairs. These are NOT unitized bearings like your 03.
The spindles are a PITA to get off the steering knuckle (rust). I remove all the studs, they can be hammered/pressed in when you are ready to assemble. Use a soft faced, no-bounce hammer. Don't hit the bearing/seal/threaded surfaces.

You will need a special hub nut wrench but can be rented for free at most auto parts stores. The hub nut torque is specified in the repair manual...follow it exactly as written.
Here is a link to an on-line repair manual:
1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual

If this your first time going 'in', then I would replace the drive axle u-joints, spindle needle bearing and seal. Be sure to clean out the axle tube before you install the drive axle or you will push dirt into the differential. Might as well look at the ball joints too if you've gone this far.

BTW: Cleaning them with compressed air is OK as long as you don't spin the bearings faster than you can count the rollers as they go by. Spinning them really fast might score the surfaces of the rollers/races.

 

Yea, I know I was saying it like I do spin up the bearings, but I really don't.
Actually, depends on the bearing, and what it does. Anyways.
I rarely spin them, if i do, i hold my finger on it, like jim says, dont spin em to fast, its unnecessary. I just blow em out from the sides where you push he grease in.