Hello Everyone,

My truck is a 1966 F250 352 V8 with automatic transmission. I last started the truck in October 2008. I pruchased the truck July 2008. I never drove the truck on the road because it did not have working brakes. I just completed an upgrade to front disc brakes and power steering using a 74 F250 as my parts truck.

As part of the PS upgrade I shortened the steering column. This required that I disconnect the turn signal wiring from the steering column at the connector block. I made a sketch of that wiring but, the drawing did not make complete since to me when I was reconnecting the wires today. I reconnected the wires as i think thay need to be and the the front turn signals work. The rear signals don't work but, that may be do to burt out bulbs. I think I have the turn signal wiring correct. What I'm wondering is if the wiring in the steering column has anything to do with starting the truck.

I also installed the 74 brake light switch. I cut the two red wires that used to go to the 66 power brake booster and connected them to the 74 brake light switch. Is this correct?

Prior to the upgrades I had to lift the shfter handle a little when starting the truck. I had another 66 with the same issue. My guess is that it has to do with needing to be in park before it will start. I have placed a jack under the shift lever on the transmission and gently applied lift to ensure that the transmission is in park. I did this to eliminate the variance or play in the shifter rod that runs between the steering column and the transmission.

The headkights work and I turned the engine by hand using a breaker bar and socket on the crank bolt. Using two screw drivers (I think I did this correctly) I placed the end of the blade of one on the post/stud closest to the battery and the blade of the other on the post/stud where the cable goes to the starter. I touched the blades of the screw drivers together and had some sparks but, the starter did not crank. The battery shows to be fully charged on my battery charger. Except for the aformentioned items I don't recall doing anything to the truck that would affect it's starting. What do I need to check next?

 

The NSS or neutral safety switch is located on the column in the pedal area and looks similar to the gear selector and operates with it. There is a tab connected to the shaft that moves across responding tabs on the NSS side. The tabs in the park and neutral position only allow current to pass through to start the truck.

I don't know how others have dealt with it, but I defeated it on my truck. Mine will start regardless of where the selector is. Some will say that it is a safety concern, but no one else drives my truck. Secondly most folk that are used to an automatic know to have it in park anyways.

My truck originally was a manual so the dash wasn't wired for one.

I'll bet your issue is with the NSS.



John

 

Sounds to me that the NSS is out of adjustment. Usually when this occurs, the truck can be started by wiggling the shift lever when it's in either Park or Neutral.

If that doesn't work, it's time for a new NSS.
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The "tab" John is speaking of is this:

DOTZ7B097B .. NSS Selector Lever / Fits: All 1965/77 F100/350's.

This is a Y shaped spring steel lever that snaps into the shift tube thru a hole in the mast jacket (steering column outer cover).

What happens to it: Over time, it loses tensile strength, and falls off. Or...much more common, its pointed end snaps off.

Both the NSS and this lever are obsolete. Ford just obsoleted the lever last month.

C5TZ7A247A .. NSS

GREEN SALES CO in Cincinnati OH has 14 = 800-543-4959.

MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY has 7 = 800-546-7278

WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has 3 = 606-787-5293.

JST AUTOMOTIVE in Lebanon TN has 4 = 615-443-3086.
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DOTZ7B097B .. NSS Selector Lever

GREEN SALES has 21.

JST AUTOMOTIVE has 4.

MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS has 2.

PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX has 18 = 888-727-0418.

 

Jowilker and ND,

Thank you very much! At the time when I shortened the steering column I removed the NSS. I did not know what it was at the time. I did reinstall it and reattached the two wires that were connected to it. I dont know if I have the wires on the correct terminals. I'll reverse them to see if that works. I recall what I believe to be the NSS selector lever and the spring loaded nature of the NSS. I dont know if I have the lever in the correct position, left or right side of the tab on the NSS. I hope I'm describing this correctly. Should the spring be compressed or decompressed when in park? Jowilker, how did you defeat the switch on your truck. I work in Cincinnati and have been to Green Sales a few times for parts. I'll go see them if I need these parts.

 

It doesn't matter how the wires are hooked to the switch. If you unhook them from the switch and jumper them together, you have effectively bypassed the switch. I recommend you get the switch adjusted correctly or replaced.

 

Prostock,

Thanks for the info. I'll work on the NSS this weekend and hopefully be ready for a road test of the disc brakes and power steering.

 

You are recieving correct information from many sources and your NSS switch is exactly what it says it is. A safety switch to allow your vehicle to start only when the transmission is in the neutral position or park. My truck like John's has had the NSS eliminated.
You said earlier that you used 2 screwdrivers to jump the solenoid switch but the engine didn't crank over. It should have turned over with or without a NSS or with the key on or off. Since you said the truck had been sitting a while it would probably be that you have a stuck or bad starter. Though you should have a NSS, I don't think that is all of your problem I'd bang on the starter with a hammer a few good licks and try it again or replace it. I may be wrong and if I am I'll get back in my little corner and just shut up but when you jump the solenoid like you said, a bad or stuck starter would be the only reason for the engine not to turn over.