You should only need your u bolts 7 inchs long, that's for stock springs with no block. Im not sure how thick your new springs are compared to stock. Looks like you have plenty of thread. So I guess I would put em on and crank em down, and if there is too much sticking out for your liking, cut the extra off with a cut off wheel or sawsall a half inch from the nut. Why didnt you order what you needed to avoid this?
__________________
91 Shortbox F-150, 302, ZF 5 speed, Dana 44HD SAS, Dana 60 rear, 8'' Suspension Lift and 38'' TSL's.
Mustang lx, 2.3, 5 speed. Nothing cool except gas mileage!
well no luck yet on the trac bar i got an offroad shop looking for one but i will know tomorrow if they find, and tomorrow i have to stop at 2 places after work and see if they have any hanging around
but heres the 2 pieces of my brackets...still in rough, just torched gotta get them to fit nice and smooth em out yet
__________________
PROJECT and DD---95 ford f150 4x4, 300 INLINE SIX!, 5speed, SAS, 4" lift, 35x13.50 ground hawgs (sooner or later)
PARKED---91 ford f150 lariat, 302 v8, auto, 2wd, rust
PARKED---92 ford f150 xl ext. cab short bed, dual tanks, 302 v8, auto, 2wd, LOUD!, very little rust!
yeah little bit haha i only have one place left that possibly has a trac bar for me and other than that i have to order an expensive adjustable one that i dont even need adjustability...
__________________
PROJECT and DD---95 ford f150 4x4, 300 INLINE SIX!, 5speed, SAS, 4" lift, 35x13.50 ground hawgs (sooner or later)
PARKED---91 ford f150 lariat, 302 v8, auto, 2wd, rust
PARKED---92 ford f150 xl ext. cab short bed, dual tanks, 302 v8, auto, 2wd, LOUD!, very little rust!
anyone know if it would be okay to make a trac bar from solid round stock steel? with heim joints and jam nuts on both ends?
still havent found a trac bar, thats why i am asking and because the damn local machine shop cant bent DOM, they dont have the dies...not sure if they can even do round stock yet
__________________
PROJECT and DD---95 ford f150 4x4, 300 INLINE SIX!, 5speed, SAS, 4" lift, 35x13.50 ground hawgs (sooner or later)
PARKED---91 ford f150 lariat, 302 v8, auto, 2wd, rust
PARKED---92 ford f150 xl ext. cab short bed, dual tanks, 302 v8, auto, 2wd, LOUD!, very little rust!
You shouldn't need to bend it, just make your brackets so it's as flat as possible.
a straight one will come out right beside the coils and if it was angled forward it would hit the x-member which i cannot cut just yet, for some reason my build is weird haha it needs to be bent, just makes life easier for me
hey can u get me a closeup of that trac bar bracket and how you mounted it to the frame?
and do you think that round stock would be okay...i think thats what the stock ones are but i cant remember for sure
__________________
PROJECT and DD---95 ford f150 4x4, 300 INLINE SIX!, 5speed, SAS, 4" lift, 35x13.50 ground hawgs (sooner or later)
PARKED---91 ford f150 lariat, 302 v8, auto, 2wd, rust
PARKED---92 ford f150 xl ext. cab short bed, dual tanks, 302 v8, auto, 2wd, LOUD!, very little rust!
S&W Racecars should be able to get you all the parts you need, tubing, tube inserts and rod ends, half moons, etc to do it up right. We used tube that could be threaded with a 3/4" tap for mine. swracecars.com if you want to go that route.
Sorry I forgot about getting pictures today, tomorrow if I have time.
__________________
-Paul
-88 Mustang 5.0/5spd mild restoration in progress
-78 Bronco 460 and things
-2003 F350 Supercab shortbed FX4 6.0 PSD
I'll pick up the slack for ya where you left off...
Donovan,
Pauls track bar is the one I put together for him. It is made of 1" Chromoloy tube that I got from S&W racecars out of PA. You can oder the tube by the foot and they will ship. The cost of the tube isn't that bad and the shipping costs are minimal. The rod ends are 3/4" shaft, kevlar lined chromoly ends, so in other words, some high strength units! You will need the left hand and right hand taps if you thread them yourself, or have them get you the 1.25" tube and a set of weld in bungs. If you go that route, remember it is chromoly and you need to do the pre/post heating of the weld to maintain the strength and not make the joint brittle.
If you go with a stock unit, that bar is solid and can be a pain to safely extend for your lift purposes. I went with the adjustable unit when I did my SAS many years back for the simplicity at the time. The whole purpose of the adjustable bar is the help you make sure your axle is centered under the truck at ride height. Once it is set, you never move it unless you add/remove lift in the truck.
Another reason to go the chromo tube route is weight savings. I couldn't believe the difference in weight of Pauls stock track bar to the chromo one, or even the steering setup. It's not only stronger, but makes your steering more accurate since it is less weight to push around. Not like its a huge deal, but in my case where I race my truck, every ounce shaved off helps times.
__________________
Karl
I'm the Voice of Reason
FTE - Where signatures get edited with no explination why.
And for reference, here is my SAS'd 95 F-150, if you need close ups let me know:
And how well it works:
Those tires are 38.5X11" boggers on Suzuki Samari rims with 6" Skyjacker coils up front and stock springs with 4" and 2" add-a-leaf kits out back, no blocks!
__________________
Karl
I'm the Voice of Reason
FTE - Where signatures get edited with no explination why.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
