1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Tank removal

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Old 04-09-2009, 05:17 PM
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Tank removal

I finally got out today for a while to wrench on the 54. I got all the wheels off and up on jack stands, and one of the running boards off. I wanted to get at the fuel tank and replace it. It looks like a lot more has to come off.

Do I have to take the running board brackets off to get this tank out? It certainly looks that way. And they have some very rusty bolts that are way up there in a tight place!
 
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Old 04-09-2009, 07:01 PM
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Remove fuel lines and wires connected to float/sending unit. Undo the bolts holding the bracket to the frame, the ones behind the brake master are a pain. Remove the bolts holding the bracket to the bottom of the running board, without spinning and striping the square hole. ALso remove filler neck or at least gas cap and rubber sleeve over filler neck. Shimmy tank out with the bracketry still attached. I stripped out one the bolt holes on my running board but soaked it with P.B. and jammed a flat head screwdriver in there to prevent it from spinning. Sadly my tank had an inch of wet rust in it. Good Luck.
 
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Old 04-09-2009, 08:07 PM
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Thanks....I will be using your directions myself soon.......I usually work on 56s.....tank is inside and alot easier.......my 53 is getting a new poly tank.........thanks
 
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Old 04-09-2009, 08:43 PM
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I took mine out a while back. Some of the bolts were a challenge. I hope it goes back together easier than it came apart. Good luck with your project. Look forward to some pics.
 
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Old 04-10-2009, 04:03 AM
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My running boards are shot. I have new ones and new SS bolts. I might go with SS on the brackets if I need to. I didn't know if both brackets had to come down.

I know I have some sludge in my tank along with 5 year old gas. I'm going to get a new one. I don't know it I'm going back stock or get an aftermarket "behind the differential" tank. I would like to go with more than 17 gallons.
 
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Old 04-11-2009, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by austin2466
Remove fuel lines and wires connected to float/sending unit. Undo the bolts holding the bracket to the frame, the ones behind the brake master are a pain. Remove the bolts holding the bracket to the bottom of the running board, without spinning and striping the square hole. ALso remove filler neck or at least gas cap and rubber sleeve over filler neck. Shimmy tank out with the bracketry still attached. I stripped out one the bolt holes on my running board but soaked it with P.B. and jammed a flat head screwdriver in there to prevent it from spinning. Sadly my tank had an inch of wet rust in it. Good Luck.
Boy it doesn't take long for threads to get off the front page.

What is PB and does it work better than WD-40?
 
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Old 04-11-2009, 10:20 AM
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Thumbs up

WD-40 is a complete waste of time. I always use PB Blaster penetrating oil, as it has cut through anything I have ever worked on.
 
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Old 04-11-2009, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Glockem45
WD-40 is a complete waste of time. I always use PB Blaster penetrating oil, as it has cut through anything I have ever worked on.
In case you missed it, the recent thread on penetrating oil https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ating-oil.html has a wealth of information on the subject.
 
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Old 04-11-2009, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Fifty4F100
I didn't know if both brackets had to come down.
You don't need to take both brackets off, only the one at the back.
 
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Old 04-11-2009, 10:25 PM
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Having just done this twice because I found I couldn't run the hard line with the tank installed. Let me just say its a $@%#@#$%$$#%$# good time.

As I recall you will need to take both running board brackets off to install or remove due to the straps that go around the tank. At least that was the easiest way I found.
 
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