Looked at sticky for blend door repair, but it is a different model year. Does anyone know where the blend door is? I only get hot air, no matter where I turn the temp dial.

 

On the 2002-2005 Explorers the blend door actuator is more likely to fail than the blend door itself. This is a good thing as the actuator is easy to replace compared to fixing the door. The actuator is the white plastic cassette looking thing that is bolted to the airbox on the driver's side and has one electric connector attached. It is pretty close to your right shin when you are driving. You need to remove the lower trim panel from the steering column, the left dash brace, the center console, and the left floor air duct to gain access to the blend door actuator. I would take it out and leave it connected to the elect connector and watch if it tuns it's drive hub when you change the temp selector. If not it has stripped out the cheap plastic gears inside. Replace the actuator and you are good to go.

If the actuator is working correctly then you have a busted blend door. Here is an option for repairing it: Ford Explorer 02-08 Incidentially, the 4th and 5th pictures down in that page also show the actuator.

Good luck, let us know what you find out.

 

Can you hear any clicking from under the dash? The rear blend door actuator on my Dad's 2002 failed last year and we replaced it. We could hear a continuous, regular clicking in the left rear cargo area as it tried to move the blend door.

Here's what we found, note the broken teeth on the plastic gear.....


and the mating gear, with teeth laying there like a couple dead bodies at a crime scene.

 

You goin' for some writer's award there?

Thanks for the laugh!

 

Haha... cool.

That's just what it reminded me of when I popped it apart.

 

When I read through the HeaterTreater posting, they made a statement regarding the control of hot water through the heater core..."The Explorer HVAC hardware is fairly complex including a lever to activate a vacuum switch to divert coolant from flowing through the heater core."

I think the 8th pic in that thread shows this control technique. Is this a view from the passenger side the blend door area? Is there a work-around to actuate that hot water valve/divert the hot water temporarily?

It's hot here in Virginia and my A/C intermittently cools/warms. As I run errands around town, the A/C is sometimes very cold between stops...and sometimes not so cold. It's as though the cool air is being heated slightly. All the environmental/mechanical conditions remain constant...outside temp, engine RPM, etc. I don't hear any clicking noises...the heat temp control is completely off...I use MAX air setting (recirculating).

I have a trip this week and don't have time to deal with replacing the blend door. Can I do something with the heater core hot water control valve and completely shut-off the hot water flow to the heater core? Is there an alternative method under the hood? Will shutting of this water flow effect coolant temps adversely?

Thanks,
Michael

 

It sounds more like you need an AC tune up to me. You could have a very slow leak somewhere and the refrigerant is now on the low side.

To answer your question though, this is from the 2003 workshop manual and goes along with the pic from heatertreater site:



The temperature control switch:

• is a potentiometer that outputs a variable voltage to the temperature blend door actuator to set the position of the temperature blend door.
• initiates closing of the heater control valve. When set to full COOL, a lever on the temperature blend door pivot shaft depresses the pintle of the heater control valve vacuum switch. The heater control valve vacuum switch then applies vacuum to the heater control valve, closing off engine coolant flow to the heater core.
• is serviced only with the climate control assembly.

This is also from the wsm and is a diagram of the heater hoses and fittings for the 4.0l engine. Item #11 is the vacuum line from the heater control valve vacuum switch and #12 is the heater control valve.




You should be able to verify that the heater control valve is closing when the temperature control switch is set to full cool. If it's not working or not working consistently then it could affect how well your AC works on very hot days.

 

I don't want to take over this post but the diagram is what I was looking at. I have an 04 Explorer Eddie edition and on the way home tonight it overheated and what I found was the hose came undone where number 7 clamp should be. The thing I found tho is it is a push in tee is that correct.

 

The gears are available on the market, FYI:

Blend Door Actuator Gear Rebuild Kit Fits Most Ford Lincoln Mercury 1990 2012 | eBay

 

Depends on whether you have the auto hvac system or the rotary **** manual version.
In our '04 Explorer, with auto HVAC, the blend door fell out and completely blocked airflow.
The fan speed would increase but airflow OUT the vents didn't really change. Thus on hot days never got cool, although you could feel a tiny bit of cold air coming out.
It was pretty easy to remove glove box, remove a few screws, separate the blend door housing and pull out the door. Works great now, just can't control recirculate vs inside air.