CV Joint - Precision #606 - order of parts?
#1
CV Joint - Precision #606 - order of parts?
Good afternoon
I picked up a CV Joint repair kit today, but because mine was missing parts I do not know how it goes together.
Here are the parts that I have.
washer (larger - OD and ID)
washer (smaller)
seal
ball
3-piece cup
unpainted spring
green spring (seems stronger)
Here is what I figure in terms of order:
1. drive shaft
2. larger washer
3. seal
4. ball (the ball would hold 2 & 3 in place)
5. 3-piece cup
6. smaller washer
7. spring (which one?)
Is this order correct? The order would start at the drive shaft end (where the pin is for the ball) and end up sitting in the cup of the cardan/CV Joint.
Thanks for any help on this.
I picked up a CV Joint repair kit today, but because mine was missing parts I do not know how it goes together.
Here are the parts that I have.
washer (larger - OD and ID)
washer (smaller)
seal
ball
3-piece cup
unpainted spring
green spring (seems stronger)
Here is what I figure in terms of order:
1. drive shaft
2. larger washer
3. seal
4. ball (the ball would hold 2 & 3 in place)
5. 3-piece cup
6. smaller washer
7. spring (which one?)
Is this order correct? The order would start at the drive shaft end (where the pin is for the ball) and end up sitting in the cup of the cardan/CV Joint.
Thanks for any help on this.
#4
Thanks!
Here is another bump with a question .....
How much of a gap should there be in the 3-piece cup once it is sitting in the bore of the flange yoke? Even if I install it without the spring (so the cup sits at the bottom of the bore), there is a gap of about 1/8" between 2 pieces of the cup.
Is this normal or is the bore of my flange yoke worn out?
Please advise as I may have the opportunity to send my drive shaft 6 hours south to a drive line specialty shop. If the flange yoke bore is worn and I can find this out within a couple of hours, then I might be able to catch someone who is going south tomorrow morning. I am hoping that he will be willing to take my front drive shaft components with him, drop them off, and then pick them up when it is repaired.
If the gap is normal I will just reassemble and will be testing things out this evening.
Thanks!
Here is another bump with a question .....
How much of a gap should there be in the 3-piece cup once it is sitting in the bore of the flange yoke? Even if I install it without the spring (so the cup sits at the bottom of the bore), there is a gap of about 1/8" between 2 pieces of the cup.
Is this normal or is the bore of my flange yoke worn out?
Please advise as I may have the opportunity to send my drive shaft 6 hours south to a drive line specialty shop. If the flange yoke bore is worn and I can find this out within a couple of hours, then I might be able to catch someone who is going south tomorrow morning. I am hoping that he will be willing to take my front drive shaft components with him, drop them off, and then pick them up when it is repaired.
If the gap is normal I will just reassemble and will be testing things out this evening.
Thanks!
#5
This website is all I can offer. Double-Cardan Driveshaft Rebuild
I tried rebuilding a double cardan shaft once, failed. I figured it was worth a shot, then I had the driveline shop rebuild it. Ive done alot of single u joints, and from there on out decided not to ever do a double cardan joint again. Hopefully you have better luck. Also if you send it to the driveline shop, have them balance it also.
I tried rebuilding a double cardan shaft once, failed. I figured it was worth a shot, then I had the driveline shop rebuild it. Ive done alot of single u joints, and from there on out decided not to ever do a double cardan joint again. Hopefully you have better luck. Also if you send it to the driveline shop, have them balance it also.
#6
I was going to do my front drive shaft until I got it apart and found the pin that fits into the ball socket/bearing was shot. That is part of the yoke on the end of the shaft. It had to be cut-off and a new yoke welded in. After finding that out, I took it to a driveshaft repair place and they cut it off welded the new one in, all new parts, crosses, re-assembled, and balanced the whole thing for $261. I think it was well worth it.
#7
This website is all I can offer. Double-Cardan Driveshaft Rebuild
I tried rebuilding a double cardan shaft once, failed. I figured it was worth a shot, then I had the driveline shop rebuild it. Ive done alot of single u joints, and from there on out decided not to ever do a double cardan joint again. Hopefully you have better luck. Also if you send it to the driveline shop, have them balance it also.
I tried rebuilding a double cardan shaft once, failed. I figured it was worth a shot, then I had the driveline shop rebuild it. Ive done alot of single u joints, and from there on out decided not to ever do a double cardan joint again. Hopefully you have better luck. Also if you send it to the driveline shop, have them balance it also.
It was not too hard to put back together. I was going to move one of my vices so that I could line 2 up and clamp the propeller shaft and the flange yoke in place, but not only was it not required, I am not sure if that plan would have worked.
The first thing I did was clean all of my parts well with brake cleaner. This allowed me to position the u-joints (without the bearing caps) and not have to worry about getting them dirty.
I also removed the grease zerks from both u-joints so that I could put the bearings caps into their final positions later on without fighting the pressure of the grease that is inside the u-joints.
To reassemble, I first tapped the new ball onto the propeller shaft with a piece of hardwood. I had removed the old ball with a bearing separator.
Then I attached the H yoke to the propeller shaft by installing that u-joint. That part was easy as it is just like doing a single-jointed shaft.
My next step was to install the ball repair kit in the bore of the flange yoke and fill it with the supplied grease.
Next, I positioned the flange yoke near the H yoke, and positioned the second u-joint (again without the caps) so that everything was basically lined up.
Then I started installing the bearing caps on the second u-joint. The first ones were easy, but they get progressively harder as the u-joints gets nearer to its final position and begins to compress the ball spring. Overall, the first three bearing caps were still quite easy to do.
The last bearing cap was the only tough one. To get it to line up properly, I took a small socket (1/4" drive - short 8 mm socket) and wedged it in between the body of the u-joint and the flange yoke. This allowed me to center the last stub of the u-joint by moving the flange yoke. Once that last stub was centered I was able to easily install the last bearing cap.
After that it was only a matter of positioning the bearings caps to accept the snap rings, installing the snap rings, and then re-installing the grease zerks.
One point of note. These components should go back together the exact same way that they came apart (to keep it balanced). To ensure that I could do so, before removing the propeller shaft from my truck I took a rattle can and painted a line on each end of the propeller shaft, making sure that the line went over every component that would be coming apart.
I was going to do my front drive shaft until I got it apart and found the pin that fits into the ball socket/bearing was shot. That is part of the yoke on the end of the shaft. It had to be cut-off and a new yoke welded in. After finding that out, I took it to a driveshaft repair place and they cut it off welded the new one in, all new parts, crosses, re-assembled, and balanced the whole thing for $261. I think it was well worth it.
Thanks for all suggestions, advice, etc.
Cheers!
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