Electric Fan?
#2
#3
Electric Fan for the F-250 Superduty 6.8L
I have not found a single Commerical Source for an Electric Fan or Dual Fans for the 6.8L. Figured there must be Reason??? Like too much heat and not enough cooling or?????
The concept seems like a really good on for reducing drag on the engine etc.
Sure would like to hear from Folks who have installed Electric Fan or Fans on an F250 or F350.
GARY
Stanley, IDAHO
The concept seems like a really good on for reducing drag on the engine etc.
Sure would like to hear from Folks who have installed Electric Fan or Fans on an F250 or F350.
GARY
Stanley, IDAHO
#4
I have not found a single Commerical Source for an Electric Fan or Dual Fans for the 6.8L. Figured there must be Reason??? Like too much heat and not enough cooling or?????
The concept seems like a really good on for reducing drag on the engine etc.
Sure would like to hear from Folks who have installed Electric Fan or Fans on an F250 or F350.
GARY
Stanley, IDAHO
The concept seems like a really good on for reducing drag on the engine etc.
Sure would like to hear from Folks who have installed Electric Fan or Fans on an F250 or F350.
GARY
Stanley, IDAHO
#5
The stock clutch fan doesn't do much in terms of restricting HP so going electric isn't going to free up an amazing amount of power.
And, finding enough electric fan to cool the V10 when towing is going to be tough to do.
Lots of people have done it, or asked about it, especially in the Superduty forum. The problem is, people find out very quickly that they are either unreliable, or they do not flow enough to keep the engine cool under extreme conditions.
#6
Its not an amazing difference, but it does make a difference.
Ive had a lot of differnet vehicles and the fan on the v10 is no larger than the fan that was on my Lightning. The radiator in the V10 looks to be the same size as was in my 6.0 Diesel truck. The Lightning got an electric fan out of a crown vic and its been more than enough to keep it cool; I know its not towing, but radiator size is going to make a big difference too.
Wish I could find out how many CFM's the factory fan moves, and what an OEM fan like out of a Crown Vic flows.
Ive had a lot of differnet vehicles and the fan on the v10 is no larger than the fan that was on my Lightning. The radiator in the V10 looks to be the same size as was in my 6.0 Diesel truck. The Lightning got an electric fan out of a crown vic and its been more than enough to keep it cool; I know its not towing, but radiator size is going to make a big difference too.
Wish I could find out how many CFM's the factory fan moves, and what an OEM fan like out of a Crown Vic flows.
#7
I don't have exact numbers, but I did do a lot of research when considering electric fans on other vehicles.
Engine driven fans of the size on these trucks are usually in the high thousands of CFM - like 8000 or more.
The highest I've seen in electrics are the Lincoln Mark VIII fan, and some SPAL fans. I haven't seen any actually measure out with anything over 3000 cfm. And the big ones pull as much as 30 amps.
So yes, it could be done. It definitely helps mpg at cruising speeds on the highway (I've seen 5-10% depending on vehicle).
BUT - it would be very difficult to get as much air flow as the stocker, and would almost certainly require an alternator upgrade.
If you don't tow or live in horribly hot areas and keep the cooling system well serviced, I'm quite sure a single Mark VIII fan or doubled up Taurus/Continental 3.8L fans (another very high output fan) would get you by. But towing at speeds under 40 mph will be getting quite iffy.
Engine driven fans of the size on these trucks are usually in the high thousands of CFM - like 8000 or more.
The highest I've seen in electrics are the Lincoln Mark VIII fan, and some SPAL fans. I haven't seen any actually measure out with anything over 3000 cfm. And the big ones pull as much as 30 amps.
So yes, it could be done. It definitely helps mpg at cruising speeds on the highway (I've seen 5-10% depending on vehicle).
BUT - it would be very difficult to get as much air flow as the stocker, and would almost certainly require an alternator upgrade.
If you don't tow or live in horribly hot areas and keep the cooling system well serviced, I'm quite sure a single Mark VIII fan or doubled up Taurus/Continental 3.8L fans (another very high output fan) would get you by. But towing at speeds under 40 mph will be getting quite iffy.
Trending Topics
#8
Heres one designed for the SD with the 7.3l and 6.0l so it should work with the 6.8l.
Flex-a-lite 278 - Flex-a-lite Monster Direct Fit Electric Fans
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
It is rated for a GCWR of 18k lbs BUT that is for a diesel. Diesels are much more cold blooded than gassers. The GCWR limit is what scares me from electric fans on my truck.
Flex-a-lite 278 - Flex-a-lite Monster Direct Fit Electric Fans
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
It is rated for a GCWR of 18k lbs BUT that is for a diesel. Diesels are much more cold blooded than gassers. The GCWR limit is what scares me from electric fans on my truck.
#9
Hard climbs up hill at slow speeds is where I can see an advantage if the alternator doesn't eat up any gains made by the removal of the fan.
I always thought it "wrong" or a waste to go take mechanical energy convert it to electrical energy just to convert it back to mechanical energy.
There used to be a product called the Syclone Power Fan that electrically locked up and/or disengaged the stock fan. At $499 (then) it seemed to make sense mainly for improved low speed cooling and air conditioner performance...plus it added a measure of engine braking. Don't know if it is still made.
#10
#11
Why is that? Seems that at highway sopeeds there is sufficient airflow over the heat exhanger (radiator) to keep the engine within operating temps. The clutch fan rarely, if ever, comes on in that situation.
Hard climbs up hill at slow speeds is where I can see an advantage if the alternator doesn't eat up any gains made by the removal of the fan.
I always thought it "wrong" or a waste to go take mechanical energy convert it to electrical energy just to convert it back to mechanical energy.
There used to be a product called the Syclone Power Fan that electrically locked up and/or disengaged the stock fan. At $499 (then) it seemed to make sense mainly for improved low speed cooling and air conditioner performance...plus it added a measure of engine braking. Don't know if it is still made.
Hard climbs up hill at slow speeds is where I can see an advantage if the alternator doesn't eat up any gains made by the removal of the fan.
I always thought it "wrong" or a waste to go take mechanical energy convert it to electrical energy just to convert it back to mechanical energy.
There used to be a product called the Syclone Power Fan that electrically locked up and/or disengaged the stock fan. At $499 (then) it seemed to make sense mainly for improved low speed cooling and air conditioner performance...plus it added a measure of engine braking. Don't know if it is still made.
That's one reason almost all cars now use electrics - to boost freeway mpg as they can be engaged and disengaged more precisely.
The Syclone Power Fan you describe would be the optimal setup for longitudinal engines!
#12
You can't apply thousands and thousands of foot pounds of torque to the wheels when they are initially at ZERO speed with direct drive, unless you're doing fluid torque converters. Which they aren't going to do most likely because of cooling needed, the need for "lockup" like automotive applications, etc. Imagine the size of that torque converter
Steam engines are capable of it. Like Leno says about his Stanley Steamer - 700ft/lbs of torque at ZERO RPMs.
#13
If you are talking about a truck that is under warranty then the loss of that warranty should be a major consideration. If you have a heat related failure in the engine, transmission or even emission controls, Ford is going to laugh at your claim once they see the fan was removed.
If you wants to cut parasitic drag you can install the narrowest tire you can fit, slightly overinflate them and have them mounted to the lightest rims that will hold your load. Remove your outside mirrors. You can lower you rig flat to the ground, put a full smooth belly pan on it, tape over every body seam and cover your grill opening to allow just enough air to keep it cool. Reducing your criusing speed by 10 mph will help cut the wind drag a bunch too. If you are traveling in groups, drafting, once mastered is another effective way to increase economy.
In my opinion, electric fans are not practical for a truck. Hot rods and cars sure.
If you wants to cut parasitic drag you can install the narrowest tire you can fit, slightly overinflate them and have them mounted to the lightest rims that will hold your load. Remove your outside mirrors. You can lower you rig flat to the ground, put a full smooth belly pan on it, tape over every body seam and cover your grill opening to allow just enough air to keep it cool. Reducing your criusing speed by 10 mph will help cut the wind drag a bunch too. If you are traveling in groups, drafting, once mastered is another effective way to increase economy.
In my opinion, electric fans are not practical for a truck. Hot rods and cars sure.
#14
Engine driven fan to electric fan.
Most electric fans I've seen and read up on only powered 2,200 cfm's and is not sufficient to cool heavy loads or towing. I found this site that has electric fans for Ford F150/250/350, vans and motor homes that powers 5,500cfm.
http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/cooling/fan_electric_270_monster_ford.html#F100_250_350Ser iesFullSize
http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/cooling/fan_electric_270_monster_ford.html#F100_250_350Ser iesFullSize
#15
The stock fan moves about 20,000 CFM. Good luck finding an electric fan that will fit in the truck and move that much air. Any less than that will degrade the cooling.