After driving home with the AC and stereo on with no problems, I go to start it about 10 minutes later and it stumbles around 4-500 RPM around 2-3 times. Since then it only cranks.

All fuses are OK, no codes, and it won't start by pressing the gas, so I'm going to say it's not the IAC. There is fuel pressure at the relief valve on the fuel rail, but when you turn the key to on I can't hear anything buzzing in the tank with a medical stethoscope. Plenty of gas in tank.

Any ideas?

Mike

 

Faulty fuel cutoff switch?

 

I cycled the switch and then just put a jumper across the wires and still no start. I also beat the crap out of the fuel tank.

I forgot to mention it's a 2000 F150 5.4 auto 102,000. I'm running a Superchips Microtuner 1715 in tow/performance and have been for some time. It sounds just like when you pull the #10 fuse and then start it to make sure you've deactivated the fuel pump.

I guess I could test the voltage at the pump connection to make sure it's getting power.

I'm going to drain the pressure off at the fuel rail totally and then see if it repressurizes.

Mike

 

Sounds like a plan!

 

remember sometimes you will get some residual pressure buid up from temp changes too. I would say to throw a fuel gauge on it just to be certain. Then yeah, next step test for power to pump. If you want to get real crazy see if you can manually power up the pump with a 12 volt battery and a couple of wires (or if your all fancy use a power probe). It does sound like a fuel pump issue though.

 

I just drove it like 20 miles with probably 4 start and stops. I hate this damn truck. I swear that this Explorer we're buying is Ford's last chance with me.

Edit: What part do I need? Just the pump or the whole sender or what?

Mike

 

Just tried the codes again and I got a P0232. I think it could be just because I cycled the inertia switch.

Mike

 

I believe that you are right about that. This excerpt is from my 2002 Service manual CD.

Be aware that P0232 could be set if the inertia fuel shutoff (IFS) switch was tripped then reset, or if power was supplied to the FP PWR circuit when the PCM expected the fuel pump to be off (i.e. fuel pump prime procedure).

 

I tested the terminal going to the fuel pump (a 4 pin connector). Two tested 0. I assume those are grounds. They were on the same side. One of the others tested exactly 11 volts and the other exactly 6.67 volts every time.

I'm going to start pulling the bed instead of dropping the tank. I know of the 6 main bed bolts and taking off the filler hose, but what else? I assume the tail lights have a quick disconnect, anything else.

I've always complained about this truck having low power. Could this possibly be the issue? I'd think that low pressure would throw a code. Oh the system never repressurized after I bled it.

Will I just need a new pump and screen? Are the bed bolts a T-50 or T-55? I just broke my T-50 after getting three out and it seemed just a little small.

Mike

 

Fixed. It was the fuel pump. It was 100% dead. I tried hooking it up to 12V power and nothing. Replaced it with an Airtech pump and screen as they had to order the Bosch pump. All together it was $119.

Those bed bolts are a beotch. I got three out and broke three T-50 bits so I gave up on that. Dropping the tank isn't really that bad. The worst part is trying to get the rubber hoses off after 102,000 miles. The inside of the tank was spotless as well so it must have just pumped its last drop.

We'll see about the performance. The ECU was reset with the battery being DCed so long and you all know how it is after that.

Thanks for all the help.

Mike

 

I suggest applying anti-seize to the bed bolts and other hardware when reinstalling. I don't expect to have to tear my work back apart, but it's nice to be prepared...

 

dropping the tank is never that bad. However if you have just filled your truck up it makes it about 20X worse. I remember when I did my Impala, it was almost on E, went and filled it up to the brim, 15 miles later the fuel pump kicks the bucket. That was a real treat.

Yeah, with the trucks, (or anything actually) it makes it alot easier if you drive the rear tires up on ramps or something. Just those extra few inches make a world of difference.

Glad it worked out for you.

 

It had about 1/2 a tank. I used some skills from work to make it easier. I cribbed up to both ends of the tank and then used a floor jack to lower it, taking out cribbing as I lowered. That way, I could easily stop and controll it 1/2 way down to DC all the connections.

I found no problems doing it with the truck on the ground. Plenty of clearance and I didn't have to reach really far up.

What did suck was getting it into the garage. My Suzuki Eiger had plenty of power to move it, but after I let the back tires over the driveway on a downhill side in soggy grass, it didn't have the weight to get the power to the ground. It just did a 4x4 burn out. Had to get my dad and his Dakota to pull me out.

Mike