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  #121  
Old 03-08-2010, 04:32 PM
Clay911 Clay911 is offline
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So I went to use 4x4 and noticed the front pass wheel grinding when I would give it gas hard. So I took the wheel off and in 2 wheel it free spins but in 4 wheel it clicks as if half engaged. I have a solenoid on order for the line that releases vac at that wheel. My question is do I have to remove the rotor and brakes to gain access where that line goes into the actuator?? I can not see where it ends

Also I could not get the hose seperate from the solenoid is it all one piece. Ford dealer says it is not but I had no way to fully release vac as I could not get solenoid apart from hose. Thanks
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  #122  
Old 03-08-2010, 06:26 PM
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You won't have to remove anything just to take hose off actuator. It's two hoses that are connected and look like one hose. As far as the hoses that connect to the solenoid located on firewall those simply pull off. Now if you are going to replace your actuator at the hub yeah you will have to take a bunch of stuff out including cv axle out of hub b/c actuator slides on end of cv axle.
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  #123  
Old 03-08-2010, 06:39 PM
Clay911 Clay911 is offline
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No I have taken that double vac hose off. I'm talking the hose that goes in behind the brakes and the hose goes up to the mud flap in the fender and dead ends at a solenoid that I assumed dumped the vac from the actuator to let it go into 4 wheel. And that hose goes in where I can't see it and looks as I have to take rotor off.
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  #124  
Old 03-08-2010, 06:45 PM
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The hose you are talking about behind the brakes is not vac hose. The only vac hose is the ones that connect on top of actuator located right behind hub. These vac lines then run up thru fender well and across to the other side eventually ending up at the solenoid on firewall behind battery. If you see your cv axle that goes into hub there is a vac hose that connects on top.
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  #125  
Old 03-08-2010, 06:53 PM
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The double hose is the only vacuum lines going to the wheel/actuator. Are you sure you aren't looking at the wire that goes to the anti-lock brake sensor?

The smaller inside diameter hose goes up into the frame and dead ends. It's a breather hose. The larger diameter of the two makes its way back to the solenoid which is on the passenger side firewall.
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  #126  
Old 03-09-2010, 07:32 AM
Clay911 Clay911 is offline
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Ya I know what hose is the vac and breather for sure as I have traced them. This line I'm talking about may be antilock brake related. It starts in behind the rotor in the wheel end somewhere and goes up(along with the brake and Vac line making 3 lines from the wheel) to the inner fender mud guard where it stops being a black vac hose and then has a little electrical plug(the black hose goes into the electrical plug) the wires on the other end of this plug then go into the harness somewhere.

Could they have ran wires through the black vac line?? It does not feel like it

On a side note my 07 gets its vac from the brake booster setup on the driver firewall. The hose goes from the setup behind the battery towards the intake behind the air intake setup then on to the brake booster with a check valve right before the booster(mine is shot)
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  #127  
Old 03-09-2010, 07:42 AM
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Yeah all the new models have this setup. It sucks IMO, I have replaced everything and when it's very cold I still have problems with it. I think the line you are talking about is a abs sensor or speed sensor that connects to the hub. Does it end at the hub? Is it attached with a small bolt at hub?
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  #128  
Old 03-09-2010, 08:30 AM
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I did not see where it ends at the wheel end but if there is a ABS wire that would have to be it as no other hoses or wires go to the wheel. Why is the booster setup worse then the intake setup.

So when I unhook my vac line(double hose) from the wheel then there should be nothing holding it from releasing vac?? Because my passenger wheel won't fully engage when in 4 wheel or when that hose is pulled off.

Kinda thinking actuator might be toast. Any special tools needed to chabge wheel ends and actuators?
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  #129  
Old 03-09-2010, 09:28 AM
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No special tools needed, and yeah if you take vac line off, your actuators should lock in. Not real sure what you're asking about booster system vs. intake system our trucks are the same. I just wish they were like older models without the vacuum operated IWE like my buddies 2000 F150 4x4 whenever he needs it unlike us when who knows if its gonna work today or tomorrow.
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double 20% tinted rear windows
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  #130  
Old 03-09-2010, 09:35 AM
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Ya ill take manual hubs anyday. And I was reffering to where weget vac as some trucks are from the intake and somr from the brake booster vac setup. From what I've seen the 4.6 are intake and 5.4 are from booster. Not that it makes a whole big deal.
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  #131  
Old 03-09-2010, 09:41 AM
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Oh ok I haven't looked at any 4.6's I know ours come from booster. I replaced all vacuum line from booster to solenoid, from solenoid to each IWE, all check valves, both hubs and both actuators (one of em twice), and solenoid on firewall. I still get slight grinding when it's freezing cold outside. I'm currently looking to trade in.
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5% tinted front windows
double 20% tinted rear windows
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  #132  
Old 03-09-2010, 10:13 AM
Clay911 Clay911 is offline
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That's terrible. How many miles? I have 120 km and this is now starting. Always worked great in the cold though.

How long would you say to change the wheel end and actuator?

Dealer is quoting me 300 of one piece 200 for another. Sounds a lil high. These are Canadian. prices mind you
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  #133  
Old 03-09-2010, 10:14 AM
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Ya, my 4.6 vacuum line comes off the intake not the brake booster line.
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  #134  
Old 03-09-2010, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clay911 View Post
That's terrible. How many miles? I have 120 km and this is now starting. Always worked great in the cold though.

103k
How long would you say to change the wheel end and actuator?


Dealer is quoting me 300 of one piece 200 for another. Sounds a lil high. These are Canadian. prices mind you
Took me bout 3hrs for both. Actuators only cost me 85.
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06' F-150 FX4 5.4L 3:73L.S. Scab
2" Autospring LK
S&B CAI
305/70R18 procomp xtreme m/t
5% tinted front windows
double 20% tinted rear windows
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  #135  
Old 03-09-2010, 12:22 PM
Clay911 Clay911 is offline
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So you only replaced the actuator. Wasn't the gear ened worn from where they grind??

Makes sense that both ends would need replaced if they have been grinding.
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Old 03-09-2010, 12:22 PM
 
 
 
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