Thank you very much. this is what I've been looking for for quite a while now. Maybe I can finally get that frikkin halfway engaged problem fixed. I know that's tearing parts up bad. And hopefully get the mileage above 9MPG.
Did all the tests, everything looks good, still grinds.
Ok, I did everything in the write up, except drive with the gauge hooked up.
Idle vacuum was 20-24, everything from the T at the solenoid holds to the IWE actuators hold vacuum with NO leakdown as observed. System holds vacuum for 5 seconds after shutoff, (until the solenoid opens and lets air in)
Getting to this point, I got rid of the checkvalve at the sloenoid, and replaced the one on the intake vacuum port with a much better ball and spring type. Checked everything in the write up, plus some.
in January, I had replaced the (drivers) left side IWE actuator, which is grinding again. (it holds vacuum just fine).
My symptoms are grinding in OD (4th gear) when accelerating, (even a little makes it grind). I know it is a IWE, so lets not talk about any other diagnosis.
In the morning, doesn't do it. when all warmed up, touching the accelrater with my big toe will make it grind in OD, and sometimes in 3rd.
I know it sounds stupid but check and make sure the check valve is facing the right way. Also you might want to put the second check valve back in, it was there for a reason. You might want to rig something up to watch the guage while your driving and see how the vacuum drops, if at all. Your vacuum might be fine. Just some thoughts.
This is my 1st post....so much info here, it's great....thanks for the detail...it has helped me a lot.....so I also have the grinding noise everyone is talking about in my 2004, F-150 4x4 front-end....it was happening off and on for some time, it seemed, but then it was all the time, but only got noisey when my speed reached 40-50 km/hr....so I did as mentioned; I disconnected the vacuum line ahead of the 1st check valve, on the engine side, and plugged it both ways....so that I could still drive it (both hubs would be engaged) and that got rid of the noise...now 3 weeks later, I finally got a good vacuum tester and some free time...I removed both hoses at the hubs and got minimal or no vacuum on the hubs at the larger fitting...so then I reconnected the vacuum line that I disconnected and plugged off 3 wks ago, near the firewall, put the vacuum tester on the hose at one hub, and with the hose to the other hub plugged off, I started the engine, and the vacuum rose to 22 in. hg...
so I reversed the tester to the other hub vacuum line and same result...I also switched into 4x4 high, and the vacuum went to 0 and then when switched back to 2 wheel dr.the vacuum increased to 22 in., so that proved the solinoid to be working ok... so now I believe both actuators need replacing...I found out that only Ford carries these parts, so I guess that's my next stop....My next question is, can someone tell me, in some detail and/or sequence , how to remove the parts required to get the actuator replaced? Thanks in advance, and have a great day....
but my problem is, I know it locks in and out, but I get know inst. clust. indication for 4x4H! 4x4L does light up! 4x4H indication does flicker as it shifts in and when disengaging!????????but just won't stay lit ????
Well I have these symptoms on my truck and was wondering what kind of costs I'm looking at to drop it off at a Ford dealer and have them do it?
Mine started making the grinding, hissing noise on the left front and is continious now at all speeds. I engaged the 4x4 and it all stops. Can I drive it at all either way or get it fixed now? My commute now is a 4 man car pool with me driving every forth day at 120 miles round trip.
Just a quick update for those of us who can't do it themselves or don't have the time.
Picked it up today from ford and they put in 2 new actuators, cleaned the lines and new solenoid with the new rain guard or whatever its called. They said the left where I was hearing the noise was seized up and the right was hanging up.
Glad you got it fixed. What you could have done (and it probably would have been nice to know this before) to drive it without hurting anything was to disconnect the line coming off the intake going to the solenoid and plugged both ends. This would have at least engaged the hubs, but not put you in 4WD. But that is all behind you. The service bill doesnt look too bad. But just for a perspective i did it myself, and keep in mind i have all the tools and lots of mechanical experience, but never did one of these before. I did both sides the first time in under three hours. When i had to re-replace the one side a month ago, i had the whole side tore apart old part out, new part in, all back together in under an hour. So imagine how long it should have taken the techs to do it with a lift and all the "right" tools. probably at the most 2 hours, but thats water under the bridge. Hope the truck works for ya for a long time.