There is a single line coming from the engine to the solenoid. Pull that one off either at the solenoid or at the inline check valve half way between and plug the end coming from the engine so the engine isnt sucking air until you get it fixed.
Yes, when you pull your line, it releases the vacuum to the hubs, releasing the vacuum locks them in, so when you pull your line, and switch to 2wd, your font axle will be locked to the wheel, but not driven by the transfer case. This scenerio happens alot when the vacuum system stops working for the 4wd in these trucks and the owners dont know (like mine). But what you might want to check out is if your transfer case switch is working. This is a little motor on the side of the transfer case that switches the drive line to 4wd, if this isnt switching all the way, it could trigger the 4wd light on the dash but not actually switch into 4wd. But i would just point this stuff out when you take it in. Without more detailed info i cant pinpoint the problem for you, but not worries if your taking it somewhere.
And to tell you the truth, before i even noticed what my truck was doing, i bet i drove around 6+ months like that before i even did anything, and so far, no ill effects. Oh, and 4wd will still work fine (as long as the problem isnt you switch motor on the transfer case)
So, I was thinking, could this have happened when they replaced my tranny? I noticed a slight rattle about a week after I picked it up, then after the freak snowstorm, I used 4wd and that's when it really started grinding and all that. I'm thinking about bringing it back to the dealership that did the tranny and demanding that they cover it under the warranty that came with the tranny. What do you guy think?
Dave, if the shop had your tranny out, they probably also had you transfer case out or at least was close to it. They could have bumped or hit that 4wd switch motor on the transfer case and that could be it, if that is where the problem is and not at the wheels. Cause the transfer switch motor could be partially engaging the 4wd causeing a grinding, some of these switch motors if not used alot get hung up.
It's official, I'm trading it in. I told them to package it back up and not do any work to it. $3700 is enough. They also said the pasengar side exhaust manifold is rotting out and leaking, which is another $1000.
I dont know if you have the tools, or if its worth it to you , but you could probably do the wheel bearings and IWEs all in one shot for probably around $600 if you bought the parts and did the work yourself.
Buy a product from "Gov Motors" NEVER! I know it gets frustrating when a problem arises and a solution is not easy or cheap, but it happens with all makes and models. 27 years in the HD truck business, I have managed service Depts for many years. Believe me when I tell you that I have heard the same stories. We lost many customers to Peterbuilt and Freightliner when Mack had camshaft issues back in the early 2000's, guess what, they had their own issues and those customers have gravitated back to either Mack or Volvo. Ford, Chevy, it's what tickles your fancy, like in my case, I love the Ford exterior and interior finish and politics.
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