Napa has the right size for the check valve closest to the solenoid on firewall. I used the bigger black check valve from napa for the others. It has three outlets so I just plugged one with a vac plug.
I know the IWE hubs can be had for less than $100 each from one of the places advertising on this page (can't remember wihch but I looked a couple weeks ago). Some of the other parts are dealer only, but not high. Most parts stores carry check valves (about $5) and vacuum line by the foot.
I have a 1997 Ford Expedition that is stuck in 4wd. Could someone please tell me how the IWE's control the 4WD on this vehicle if in fact they do.
If they don't could you please tell me how the 4WD is engaged and disengaged. I have the vehicle up on jack stands and I have verified that it is in 4WD. The drive axle coming out of the transfer case turns all the time which someone told me is how it is supposed to be. I see a lot of discussion on later models and the vacuum lines going to each wheel, however this is not the same design that I have.
I would sincerely appreciate any help you can give me.
...carefully read this whole thread. Also go to the link posted by melek4me on page two of this thread (complete with pictures and shop manual pages). If that isn't enough information, you might have to take it to a shop.
XJC: I finally got around to digging into the diagnosis per your info.
Vacuum from the solenoid end to the plugged line ends is solid-no leakdown whatsoever (so much for the cheap fix idea!) My left IWE has a very slow leak. I can actually hear the actuator move when I release the vacuum to the actuator though, that's kind of cool. It works as it should until it leaks down. I can fix that. The right side... Even with the vacuum hooked directly to the right IWE it won't disengage. That concerns me a little as the leak rate is similar to the left side. I guess I know what I'll be doing this next week after I gather the parts.
Well I spent yesterday working on the truck and hopefully all will be well. Replaced both actuators and reconnected the vacuum line. The right actuator was so bad I couldn't even compress it by hand when it was removed. It felt like something was inside the unit blocking one side so it couldn't retract. Lots of tacky black (used to be) grease to clean out of there. Left side looked less bad, but both sides showed evidence of water contamination. The truck spent the 1st 3 years of it's life in Michigan, and it shows on all the unprotected metal parts underneath. All the vacuum lines are very good-no leaks at all. When I take another longish drive I'll see if that fixed it. Only things left would be the solenoid, the check valve nearest the solenoid, or the vacuum box. At least the hardest parts are done!
While I was at it I replaced the brake pads on all four wheels and flushed the lines/new fluid, and replaced the fuel filter. By the local dealer's estimates, all told I just save about $1200 in labor.
Good deal, hopefully you got your problem. I noticed when i pulled one of my actuators out it looked like there was run in the actuator and it was crunchy, thats probably like what was goin on with yours
...still did the grind. BOTH sides now though, as they seemed to be trying to DISengage (unsuccessfully), then "clunked" back into the engaged position. Replaced the solenoid yesterday. No noises now. The dealer parts guy got all friendly when I mentioned the solenoids could be had online for less than the $32 he quoted, and sold it to me for $23. I'll remember that it the future and see what happens.
Where is everyone getting the Check valves from?? I have 2 different size ones and have to buy all the hoses for the entire system to get the check valves
Napa and all the parts stores only carry one check valve and its too small on one end.
Just wondering where I can buy the two sizes I need Thanks
Please see Post #20.
The sizes you nees are 1/8 x 1/8 standard check valves (x2) and 1/8 x 1/4 enlarging check valve (x1). Put them is your sample cart. (upper right of screen), provide a busniess name ( can be faked), and a reason for the samples, and they will send them to you FREE.... If you get reducing chack valves, the flow will be the wrong way, FYI
Well im trying to figure out why my truck wont engage in 4x4 either, already replaced one actuator on the pass side, because it was wasted, not sure about the driver side yet, im hoping its the solenoid or maybe a check valve? I put the truck on jackstands and when its in 4x4 the front cv shaft is spinning but the tires are not! When on the ground both cv shafts are fully locked,and when the engine is on they are free, does that mean my solenoid is good?
Dealer installed OLD model IWE solenoid, CHARGED $350!
I'm hoppin mad at this point. First, thank you XJCamaro89 for posting this information.
I took articles from the forum in to the Ford dealer. The shop called and told me it was fixed. I checked under the hood and saw THEY REPLACED IT WITH THE SAME PART NUMBER. No new part with the shield to keep it from happening again. When questioned, the mechanic said the TSB didn't apply to my VIN -- 2005 F-150.
Called Ford Cust. Service. Gave them the TSB. Got them to say it applied to me, my VIN. They call the shop on my behalf. Shop tells them the solenoid without the shield, etc., was new and improved beyond what the TSB said. I asked Ford was there another TSB that superceded that one, with regard to this. "Sir, your TSB is from 2006. Ford is always improving its parts and the shop manager said the solenoid they installed is what is recommended for your truck."
It's complete BS.
Worse, the guy said the old solenoid checked out fine but he replaced it anyway based on the copied stuff I brought them from the forum.
I'll bet the grinding and clunk and no 4WD light is actuator-related.
What can I do when Ford won't back me up on that TSB?
Advice, please. I want to hurt somebody over that $350 for the inferior part. I can see I'm not alone on being ripped of over this issue, however. At least that's some consolation.
You really got charged $350 to change the solenoid? Really? Just the solenoid? Its a $20 part like said before and takes about 10 mins to change. I think I would be more mad about what they charged me instead of the replacement equivalent part. I think i would go back and question the $350 charge pending that was the only thing they did.