9-inch rearend swap......HELP!
#1
9-inch rearend swap......HELP!
I've spent the last couple days swapping rears in my 52 F-1......got the 9 inch all painted up purty, new seals, new brakes, etc. Went to hook up the driveshaft,........it's too short!!! Seems the 9-inch pinion is 1.5 in shorter than the old rear. I can have a new d-shaft made, but I'm wondering if there is another d-shaft from another truck that will work? Or maybe a longer yoke? Truck has a 3 speed w/column shift. Anybody else have this problem? Thanks T/M
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Hey Tinman-
I have the same truck, installed a 9 inch rear end and ended up with the same problem with the drive shaft. I went to my local clutch & driveshaft shop and purchased a longer sliding yoke. You want some free space at the end of the yoke (about 3/4 of an inch was what I used) so that it won't bottom out on the tranny. I ended up getting a sliding yoke that was about 1 inch longer than the original. Works well. Total cost for the longer yoke was about $110.
Good luck!
Fred
I have the same truck, installed a 9 inch rear end and ended up with the same problem with the drive shaft. I went to my local clutch & driveshaft shop and purchased a longer sliding yoke. You want some free space at the end of the yoke (about 3/4 of an inch was what I used) so that it won't bottom out on the tranny. I ended up getting a sliding yoke that was about 1 inch longer than the original. Works well. Total cost for the longer yoke was about $110.
Good luck!
Fred
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What was the 9" out of? I'm going to go get one as soon as I get a nice afternoon and can get away from work for a couple hours, I found two in the local pick and pull ($100 or $75 with a core) 68-72 ford F-150's at least they were there, I hope they are still there waiting for me?
I may have to look for a slip yoke as mentioned above, I don't want to spend $$$$ for driveshaft lengthening either..
Thanks
Josh
I may have to look for a slip yoke as mentioned above, I don't want to spend $$$$ for driveshaft lengthening either..
Thanks
Josh
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#8
Man, I was hoping to get away without putting much into the swap either.
MTflat said in a tech article that he had posted on the defunct MSN flathead board that he heard you could use a mid '70s station wagon. I have a copy of his procedure on my web site if anyone is interested:
Rear Axle Page
MTflat said in a tech article that he had posted on the defunct MSN flathead board that he heard you could use a mid '70s station wagon. I have a copy of his procedure on my web site if anyone is interested:
Rear Axle Page
#9
I looked at mine. The PO used a '76 f150 9" (too wide, yes) and had the driveshaft hooked up to the 4sp. It appeared that it was original. Most likely it was original to the f150 it came from since it was thicker in diameter than the F1's driveshaft. I measured the center to center at ~65.13" and the thicker barrel part at ~56.69" 2wd had carrier bearings so either his f150 was a shortbed or 4x4.
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Some facts I left out......the F-1 drive shaft is 63.5 in center to center, and the rear is out of a 65/6 F100. Shortening a driveshaft is no big deal, but lengthening one is a little tougher.......so I think I'll try to find a longer one, or a longer pinion yoke. I know they made a bunch of different yokes, not sure if any of them interchange?! Ain't old Fords fun??? T/M
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Havi, 70's 4x4 trucks don't have a slip yoke at the tranny like a 52 f-1 so those shafts are no good (they are more like a 50's 4 speed driveshaft with a fixed yoke and the slip yoke IN the driveshaft itself). Maybe a shortbed 2wd 70's truck would work??
Some cars have a longer slip yoke that has the same splines and outside diameter, like 60's mustangs etc...etc.. they have a slip yoke that is about twice as long at the little 50's yoke. BUT....this may shorten the life of the tranny bearings over time????
60's small cars (mustangs, torinos...etc...etc) had a yoke that was longer ( a little more than an an inch) on the 9" axles. look for a centersection that has a sheetmetal hood with a rubber snubber bolted on top of the pinion support.
I have one of these old centersections on the floor of the garage, it is an old N-case center out of a drag pak torino. I would trade you yokes but unfortunatly the n-case yoke is a tad diferent than the regular 9" yoke (n-cases had the daytona pinion suports which used a diferent yoke). If I remember I will take a pic of it tonight so you know what to look for.
Also lengthing a driveshaft usually doesn't cost much. Around my way it costs about $100 to get one made any length and balanced if you provide the ends.
Also if you do find a driveshaft in a junkyard that is the right length but has the larger U-joint size you can but "combination" joints at the parts store that have both sizes (ie. one cross of the u-joint is larger than the other).
Some cars have a longer slip yoke that has the same splines and outside diameter, like 60's mustangs etc...etc.. they have a slip yoke that is about twice as long at the little 50's yoke. BUT....this may shorten the life of the tranny bearings over time????
60's small cars (mustangs, torinos...etc...etc) had a yoke that was longer ( a little more than an an inch) on the 9" axles. look for a centersection that has a sheetmetal hood with a rubber snubber bolted on top of the pinion support.
I have one of these old centersections on the floor of the garage, it is an old N-case center out of a drag pak torino. I would trade you yokes but unfortunatly the n-case yoke is a tad diferent than the regular 9" yoke (n-cases had the daytona pinion suports which used a diferent yoke). If I remember I will take a pic of it tonight so you know what to look for.
Also lengthing a driveshaft usually doesn't cost much. Around my way it costs about $100 to get one made any length and balanced if you provide the ends.
Also if you do find a driveshaft in a junkyard that is the right length but has the larger U-joint size you can but "combination" joints at the parts store that have both sizes (ie. one cross of the u-joint is larger than the other).