Fuseable link ???
#17
Here is a link to a great site for installing the GM one wire:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...ord_Truck.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...ord_Truck.html
#19
I was facing the same question with my EZ Wiring harness and did what most stupid people do.....I called EZ tech support. According to their instructions, you take the 14 ga. black wire with the loop connector on one end (it is in the kit) and connect it to the 12 ga. red wire from the fuse panel that is normally connected to the positive terminal of the starter solenoid. The black wire (EZ's fuseable) with be your fuseable protection. Straight from the horses mouth.
#20
I was facing the same question with my EZ Wiring harness and did what most stupid people do.....I called EZ tech support. According to their instructions, you take the 14 ga. black wire with the loop connector on one end (it is in the kit) and connect it to the 12 ga. red wire from the fuse panel that is normally connected to the positive terminal of the starter solenoid. The black wire (EZ's fuseable) with be your fuseable protection. Straight from the horses mouth.
Sam
#21
#22
#23
Wow Sam, that does look great. (despite that dirty ol Holley carb) Very nice - I'm jealous!
Stupid question to follow up from the EZ wire tech support "Fusable link" suggestion.
Did they happen to say what happens when the 14 gauge wire frys in two and the hot end drops off to reshort on your block - or God forbid - dash, and it continues to melt (and weld) until you are at the end where the 12 gauge wire is grafted on, then it gets worse?
I would imagine that would look just like the cordite fuses they used to use for dynamite in all the western movies. HAve any of you ever used a Wire Welder? How may amps does it draw? A loose wire from a shorted alternator is EXACTLY a wire welder.
Be certain when you use and fusable link, that is it iolated, insulated, and enclosed in a non conducting and heat proof casing. I would still be calling the alternator manufacturer for an encased fuse.
Or, call the guys at "Tuff Stuff" - they make alternators and there advice has always been good (they never tried to pass electrical melarchy at this girl - who just happens to know the difference between a muffler bearing, and a shock absorber solenoid).
Products :: Tuff Stuff Performance
Stupid question to follow up from the EZ wire tech support "Fusable link" suggestion.
Did they happen to say what happens when the 14 gauge wire frys in two and the hot end drops off to reshort on your block - or God forbid - dash, and it continues to melt (and weld) until you are at the end where the 12 gauge wire is grafted on, then it gets worse?
I would imagine that would look just like the cordite fuses they used to use for dynamite in all the western movies. HAve any of you ever used a Wire Welder? How may amps does it draw? A loose wire from a shorted alternator is EXACTLY a wire welder.
Be certain when you use and fusable link, that is it iolated, insulated, and enclosed in a non conducting and heat proof casing. I would still be calling the alternator manufacturer for an encased fuse.
Or, call the guys at "Tuff Stuff" - they make alternators and there advice has always been good (they never tried to pass electrical melarchy at this girl - who just happens to know the difference between a muffler bearing, and a shock absorber solenoid).
Products :: Tuff Stuff Performance
#25
here is a pic after the engine paint with the fancy valve covers on. (before we painted the distributor cap too.. that blue is FUGLY)
all the engine wires come up from the tranny tunnel (using weather proof connectors to unplug the harness) thru a (to be polished) stainless pipe along the top of the polished intake. (you can see the plastic pipe prototype in the second picture) with hidden cutouts for the oil pressure sensor wire, and choke wire. very little of wires will show in the engine bay.
hm.. sorry to hijack the thread here..
Sam
#26
Wow Sam, that does look great. (despite that dirty ol Holley carb) Very nice - I'm jealous!
Stupid question to follow up from the EZ wire tech support "Fusable link" suggestion.
Did they happen to say what happens when the 14 gauge wire frys in two and the hot end drops off to reshort on your block - or God forbid - dash, and it continues to melt (and weld) until you are at the end where the 12 gauge wire is grafted on, then it gets worse?
I would imagine that would look just like the cordite fuses they used to use for dynamite in all the western movies. HAve any of you ever used a Wire Welder? How may amps does it draw? A loose wire from a shorted alternator is EXACTLY a wire welder.
Be certain when you use and fusable link, that is it iolated, insulated, and enclosed in a non conducting and heat proof casing. I would still be calling the alternator manufacturer for an encased fuse.
Or, call the guys at "Tuff Stuff" - they make alternators and there advice has always been good (they never tried to pass electrical melarchy at this girl - who just happens to know the difference between a muffler bearing, and a shock absorber solenoid).
Products :: Tuff Stuff Performance
Stupid question to follow up from the EZ wire tech support "Fusable link" suggestion.
Did they happen to say what happens when the 14 gauge wire frys in two and the hot end drops off to reshort on your block - or God forbid - dash, and it continues to melt (and weld) until you are at the end where the 12 gauge wire is grafted on, then it gets worse?
I would imagine that would look just like the cordite fuses they used to use for dynamite in all the western movies. HAve any of you ever used a Wire Welder? How may amps does it draw? A loose wire from a shorted alternator is EXACTLY a wire welder.
Be certain when you use and fusable link, that is it iolated, insulated, and enclosed in a non conducting and heat proof casing. I would still be calling the alternator manufacturer for an encased fuse.
Or, call the guys at "Tuff Stuff" - they make alternators and there advice has always been good (they never tried to pass electrical melarchy at this girl - who just happens to know the difference between a muffler bearing, and a shock absorber solenoid).
Products :: Tuff Stuff Performance
Sam
#28