More injector info .........

bismic · #1 (**permalink**) 03-23-2009, 09:47 PM

Credit for the first two paragraphs belongs to Josh Boggin (River City Diesel):

The main reason why the 6.0 is so picky about oil is because it is totally reliant on two electromagnets to shuttle the spool and control the oil to the injectors. The 7.3`s use a electromagnet also but a spring to return the poppet to the closed position. Obviously the spring will work much better to "cut" through the thick oil and close the oil flow.

Not only will running oil with too thick of a viscosity cause rough starts. But this also will interrupt the shuttle action of the spool causing injection timing to be retarded causing poor performance and decreased mileage until the oil is up to full operating temperature.

I "stole" it from another site. I thought it was worth sharing.

I also wanted to consolidate some info from another post for all those "future" members using the search function:

Common Symptoms of failing injector(s):

Hard Starting (especially w/ cold engine)
Excessive Smoke (white or bluish white)
Rough Running
Low Power
Stalling
Misfire
Buck / Jerk

Typically when one injector fails, the engine is hard to start and is low on power. If two injectors fail starting will be very hard or the engine will not start at all. If you do manage to start the engine, it will be very low on power.

Diagnostic Tips:

Before beginning any diagnosis or parts replacement, always determine if your truck's PCM and IDM (Injector Drive Module) have been updated to the latest software. Recent changes correct hard cold start/cold smoke/poor cold running issues by energizing the injector coils during glow plug operation in order to heat the oil in the injectors. Software is VERY important to 6.0L operation.
If oil is very dirty, change it and see if operation improves.
The 6.0L has many issues with electrical harnesses rubbing through - even the updated harnesses. The injector harnesses can rub through near the valve covers and either prevent an injector from firing or cause it to stay on all the time.
Any time a 6.0L develops a stalling or a miss, check the problem out right away to prevent possible further damage!

Video on Bad Injectors:

Page 5 - TheDieselGarage.com

Besides design issues, the #1 cause of 6.0L injector failure is poor maintenance! Because engine oil at very high pressure is used to operate the injectors, keeping the oil clean is absolutely essential to maximum injector life.

Besides keeping the oil clean, fuel is the next major issue that affects 6.0L injectors. Poor quality fuel with water or dirt in it is absolutely deadly to your injectors. Also, because the fuel actually provides a cushion for the internal valving of the injector, anything that causes low fuel pressure will kill the injectors. This includes not observing proper fuel filter maintenance. Fuel filters should be serviced at a maximum of 15,000 mile intervals (10,000 miles under extreme service). Low pressure caused by a failing fuel pump can cause repeat injector failure. ALWAYS check fuel pressure after installing new injectors. Use manufacturer's spec for your truck, but generally look for around 60-65 PSI with the engine running. Finally, running a 6.0L Powerstroke out of fuel is deadly to injectors! On early trucks, if you run out of fuel, you will usually be buying 8 injectors. If you think you are going to run out of fuel, stop, shut the truck off, and walk. It may save you $2,500. Later trucks have a PCM strategy which limits pressure to prevent injector damage during a low fuel condition, but it is still a situation to be avoided at all costs.

Good article on Fuel Pressure:

http://fordpowerstrokeforums.com/downloads/Fuel-Pressure.pdf

Also -
Might want to read those stickers on the engine and read the book where it says to NOT use starter fluid, thats a really good way to damage your engine, it leaves fairly telltale signs that makes it real easy to void engine warranty. The other thing to keep in mind is that the injector tips are actually cooled by the fuel passing through them, so if you put the ether to it the injectors can overheat resulting in plunger scuffing and injector failure.

Video on draining your fuel tank (if you happen to fill it w/ gas)

", back and forth, on and off every time the injector fires. Many factors play in to how well that valve works such as, oil temp, oil quality, normal wear, ambient temp, and many others. As this valve ages it polishes itself inside the bore of the spool valve and as the spool valve slams back and forth it can set up the condition like a suction cup, hanging the valve to one side or the other. This uncommanded uncontrollable condition is called stiction. Mostly its a rough run cold condition but in severe cases it can be a no start or pretty harsh misfire condition. Oil that stays inside the valve on a hot engine shutdown and is allowed to cool slowly in the injector can aggravate the condition on restart, so the newest reflash uses inductive heat after shutdown to keep the oil warm, keep its viscosity low, and maximize the oil flowability to purge the oil from them. It has worked fantastic. It is an excellent preventative measure.

Summary:

Prolong Injector Life:

Change fuel filter at 10,000 miles, use OEM style filters

Good quality fuel - purchase at high volume stations

After filter change, remove air before starting: 3 cycles of (ignition on for 3 sec, ignition off for 15 sec).
Then ignition off for 3 seconds and START.

Find a good additive for lubricity and in event of getting bad fuel (w/ water, low cetane, additives not added, etc).
According to the manual - use an additive when suspect fuel quality problems : non alcohol, water demulsifier

Good links on Additives:

Do diesel fuel additives really Work? How and Why ! - Truckinfo.net

http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf

Do not run your tank empty (below 45 psig fuel pressure ruins injectors)

Install a fuel pressure gauge with an alarm point you can set. Stop if it drops below 45 psig

Biodiesel is a great lubricity additive, just remember it can gel. Use an antigel additive, especially in winter

Mods -- ITP Return Regulated Fuel System (equal pressure to all injectors), FASS System - pressure control, air removal, also Air Dog w/ Raptor pump.

Early Injectors: (White Top)
Ford Part Number: 3C3Z-9E527-AE
Fits 2002.5 - 2003 Ford Powerstroke 6.0L
International Part Numbers: 1843089C91, 1845879C91, 1843481C94, 1843481C95
Fits 2003 - 2004 International VT365 6.0L

Late Injectors: (Black Top)
Ford Part Number: 4C3Z-9E527-AA
Fits 2004 - 2006 Ford Powerstroke 6.0L
International Part Numbers: 1844751C2, 1846692C92
Fits 2004 - 2006 International VT365 6.0L and VT275 4.5L

__________________
Mark
06 F250 CC SB ESOF FX4 Lariat 3.73LS 275/65R20; DieselSite Coolant Filter; High Idle Mod; HFCM Plug; Zoodad/Air Fury grill; Accufab Elbow; RACCCV6000 filter; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in Transfer Case; Fumoto Valve; Harpooned fuel tank; Line-X; CPOhighway Products tool box; tracrac; Fox Weatherboots; Wet Okole Seat Covers; Stanadyne Performance & B2 for lubricity; PIE adapter (thanks Sarge); PIAA 24" wiper blades; updated EGR valve; BriteBox; Re-flashed; Fuel Pressure gauge; DashDaq on deck