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I just did a front crank seal on my Ranger and prying on the belt tensioner looked too much like work. I removed the tensioner and welded a bolt as shown next to the roll pin on the right. I cut it flush with the back of the tensioner plate with an angle grinder.
It works very well. Loosen lock bolt with one ratchet and adjust tensioner with another.
A much sexier version could use an Allen head bolt neatly TIGed to the plate, but I wasn't after beauty this time and didn't have any Allen heads on top of the scrap pile. I'll do this to any tensioner I install from now on since it only takes a few minutes. Just ensure that whatever you use clears the belt and the tensioner spring when installed. Don't worry about overheating the tensioner bearing since you are only making a small tack weld. I don't have the need to quick-change belts, but this would make it easier.
Good idea on the naked belts. I'll go that route since my stock covers are trashed.
I might do the cam seal too, but the crank seal drenched the engine (previous owner appeared to have replaced it by gouging it out with a screwdriver). Fortunately the crankshaft seal sleeve kit is only about 14 bucks. Since the truck runs great and was free I can't cry too much...
I may be missing something here, but this is better than simply using a pry bar to move the tensioner back and locking it in place????? Takes what, 5 seconds????jd
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In memory of my beloved Sandy, 9/28/53 - 1/24/03
Tacking the bolt head on was actually less hassle than hunting a short pry bar with the right size head (my bars tend to be long and heavy). This is effortless for the many folks with welders. Grab bolt, zap, slice off extra, done.
Took longer to get the camera from the house then tack the bolt. I'm basically lazy so I make changes that can save me effort in the future.
For those interested in actually tensioning the tensioner to factory specs, they could figure the torque applied via the tacked bolt head instead of using the factory tool. I'm not quite that motivated, but the nut is more precise than a pry bar for those of us that adjust by "feel".
Tacking the bolt head on was actually less hassle than hunting a short pry bar with the right size head (my bars tend to be long and heavy). This is effortless for the many folks with welders. Grab bolt, zap, slice off extra, done.
Took longer to get the camera from the house then tack the bolt. I'm basically lazy so I make changes that can save me effort in the future.
For those interested in actually tensioning the tensioner to factory specs, they could figure the torque applied via the tacked bolt head instead of using the factory tool. I'm not quite that motivated, but the nut is more precise than a pry bar for those of us that adjust by "feel".
I always pull the tensioner off and replace. Common failure of the pulley bearings. Clean the block, put just a dab of grease where the plate slides, then let the spring set the tension. Never had a problem.jd
__________________
In memory of my beloved Sandy, 9/28/53 - 1/24/03
I just did a front crank seal on my Ranger and prying on the belt tensioner looked too much like work. I removed the tensioner and welded a bolt as shown next to the roll pin on the right. I cut it flush with the back of the tensioner plate with an angle grinder.
It works very well. Loosen lock bolt with one ratchet and adjust tensioner with another.
A much sexier version could use an Allen head bolt neatly TIGed to the plate, but I wasn't after beauty this time and didn't have any Allen heads on top of the scrap pile. I'll do this to any tensioner I install from now on since it only takes a few minutes. Just ensure that whatever you use clears the belt and the tensioner spring when installed. Don't worry about overheating the tensioner bearing since you are only making a small tack weld. I don't have the need to quick-change belts, but this would make it easier.
Good Idea, I will have to try it, also where can I buy a new spring?
I like the mod. Going to install a new belt soon and also plan to replace the tensioner. I don't have access to a welder (nor can I weld for crap, to be honest) but would like to get the tensioner retrofitted. If I sent the OEM part with a self-addressed stamped (return) envelope, how much would you charge for the bolt and welding?
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jd
