2001 7.3 cold start and stall
#1
2001 7.3 cold start and stall
hey,
on a 2001 f250 w/7.3td i have here at the shop it's hard to keep it running when the engines cold. say i go out and start it in the morning it will run between 3-10 minutes before it stumbles than stalls. go back out start it again, this time it cranks a bit longer than the first start but it starts back up and runs for another 3-10 minutes before it stalls again. you can repeat this process until the motor in warmed up to normal operating temp and it stops stalling and runs fine. if you shut the truck off than go to start it before it cools off it runs just as it should. any ideas? i think i have a leak in the suction side of my fuel line behind my rail pump. just put a new rail pump and cam sensor in the truck.
on a 2001 f250 w/7.3td i have here at the shop it's hard to keep it running when the engines cold. say i go out and start it in the morning it will run between 3-10 minutes before it stumbles than stalls. go back out start it again, this time it cranks a bit longer than the first start but it starts back up and runs for another 3-10 minutes before it stalls again. you can repeat this process until the motor in warmed up to normal operating temp and it stops stalling and runs fine. if you shut the truck off than go to start it before it cools off it runs just as it should. any ideas? i think i have a leak in the suction side of my fuel line behind my rail pump. just put a new rail pump and cam sensor in the truck.
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Jim if the glow plugs weren't heating the engine wouldn't even start.
Having the engine run for ten minutes and then stall out completely eliminates a glow plug issue, that is PLENTY of time for the piston crowns to get heated enough to maintain idle.
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Jake, I recommend that you eliminate the quick connects between the fuel pump and the fuel tank. They are notorious for allowing an air leak in and then the fuel supply stops and/or get's badly airated.
Simply cut them out and replace them with fuel injection rated hose and standard screw clamps. What I did on mine was use two clamps per union and situate the clamps 180 degrees from each other with one screw head on top and the other one on the bottom to ensure that there is no possiblity of an air getting sucked into the feed line for the fuel pump.
It will make a HUGE difference, even it that is not the cause of the stalling.
Having the engine run for ten minutes and then stall out completely eliminates a glow plug issue, that is PLENTY of time for the piston crowns to get heated enough to maintain idle.
.
Jake, I recommend that you eliminate the quick connects between the fuel pump and the fuel tank. They are notorious for allowing an air leak in and then the fuel supply stops and/or get's badly airated.
Simply cut them out and replace them with fuel injection rated hose and standard screw clamps. What I did on mine was use two clamps per union and situate the clamps 180 degrees from each other with one screw head on top and the other one on the bottom to ensure that there is no possiblity of an air getting sucked into the feed line for the fuel pump.
It will make a HUGE difference, even it that is not the cause of the stalling.
#7
I'd start with checking the oil level and finding out where the leak is coming from.
When the truck stalls after 3 - 10 min., can you describe how it stalls? I would think a fuel restriction would show up cold or hot, but you said the truck runs fine when the engine is at operating temp.
Make sure the oil is of the proper rating, then if possible, monitor live data on a scanner to check for a biased sensor. The EOT sensor comes to mind, but I'd check as many as you can.
When the truck stalls after 3 - 10 min., can you describe how it stalls? I would think a fuel restriction would show up cold or hot, but you said the truck runs fine when the engine is at operating temp.
Make sure the oil is of the proper rating, then if possible, monitor live data on a scanner to check for a biased sensor. The EOT sensor comes to mind, but I'd check as many as you can.
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