both of my Ford work vans made that noise when it first started, then it got quieter after the initial start up.

 

The fan clutch does not fully release until they run for a minute or two, then they should release until the temperature gets to around 200-210 degrees. When the engine is cold, you should be able to turn the fan with some resistance without the pulley slipping. On mine it never released. With the new clutch in place I can turn the fan fairly easy after driving to town and back after I shut the truck down.

 

I have a friend, who's never grabbed, it was free float at all times. his engine always ran hot. I told him that his clutch was bad, but he wouldn't listen. He said "No, its just always run hot it has as long as I have owned it." He almost seemed annoyed at me. Then one day it quit running hot, it just quit running at all. He had it towed to a mechanic, who said, looks like you overheated it, its burned real bad.


Imagine that...

 

I'm sure the melted engine had nothing to do with the fan. Totally unrelated. Couldn't have been the issue. No way. Unpossible.




However, the fan really only comes into play when the vehicle isn't moving or at really slow speeds right? The answer is just drive faster. It'll never overheat then.

 

Ummm.............................. :-)

 

I am with you Garrett.. I am sure the engine turning itself into a paperweight was just coincidence.


I have been driving the O'l IH to work almost this whole week. each day it has acted a little weird, but never let me down. A few days ago, I was driving, and it just died. I thought it was out of gas, but I coasted into the gas station and only put in 3 gallon of fuel and that filled it. I am guessing that the fuel is old that is in it, and might even have a little water in it. It idles fine, but it was cutting out about 1/4 throttle. It was either coast with it at idle, or put my foot into it. I had a few minutes to kill so stopped in my local O'reilly's and picked up three bottles of fuel injection cleaner. I poured a couple bottles in, and went on. This morning, it is running great! I hope it continues to run this good.

 

found out why I had an oil leak-- idots at the garage stripped my plug hole--- what a crappy day

 

Green has had that since I bought it. Clint or I have not found a fix for that on Green. I run a rubber expanding plug. But most shops will not change the oil with that type of plug.

 

since the hole is so close to the frame a rubber expand plug won't fit-- I am going to have to figure something out-- all 6 quarts of oil is on my driveway. I was hoping to drive it on memorial day weekend but not I don't know. I might have to pull the motor and remove the pan---- ugh!

 

Dude!! That certainly does SUCK!!!! do you really have to pull the engine to replace the pan? Is that because of the frame, or the front axle? I was just curious if you set the truck up on jack stands and let the front axle droop, would that give you enough room to work with?

 

I swapped the pan on mine with the engine still in the truck. It was painful but doable. I went with the rear sump on the 460 so that meant I would have to change the pick-up and such but it can be done. I pulled the starter and both motor mounts. Jacked the motor up a tad and just massaged it in. Mine was a 77 4x4 so I had clearance issues with the cross member but you can find the sweet spot and it will go in. Also, I went with the one piece reusable gasket, that made it tons easier. Hope this helps. All in all it took 2 1/2 hours. On a stand, it would have taken 7 minutes.

 

Thanks Beedub but I have a cross member that holds the motor mounts in place and that cross member is about .001 of an inch from the pan- so that won't work. :-(

 

Chad, will the plug tighten up enough that a rubber o ring would seal the pan. Leaking out all the oil is a bad leak.

Also have you talked to the garage about liability for the stripped threads? Also is there an oversize plug available where you can cut new threads to seal the plug?

 

make a little bowl under the plug, seal it up good, put a pump on it to pump the oil back up to the fill hole on the valve cover, call it fixed.. : )

 

The YJ has been keeping me busy the past couple weeks. Saw a coolant leak near the front of the motor a couple weeks back and I noticed that the water pump was leaking. Went and picked up a new water pump, then thought the hoses probably needed replaced so I got those too. Oh yeah, thermostat and gasket......dang RTV dried out, need an new one...........Oh yeah coolant too. Kaching, got that bunch bought.

Got the radiator out and flushed it with the garden hose, cleanest one I've ever cleaned out. It looked ratty though since support mounts were kinda broke away and the metal seemed faded and stained, still works though so by golly I'm gonna stick with it. Decided to be a GENIUS and spray it with my newly acquired power washer to get those fins real clean. Problem was that I was doing it in the yard when it was dark AND not spraying directly through the radiator. This ended up with mashed fins EVERYWHERE so I tried to manually undo the damage, 30 minutes of straightening fins made me throw in the towel. Off to NAPA the next day for a new radiator.....kaching again. Crap, didn't notice the old ratty radiator cap, went back for one last kaching.

Long story short, I have a new cooling system (Luckily all for under $200) due to a little leak and my bad judgement calls! lol