I knocked the #4 piston out and the cracks don't go all the way through to the bottom. (about 1/2" or so from the bottom is where it stops) This bodes well for a sleeve in its future I would think. This was advice given from another site. I mentioned all the bores as rusted as they are, would likely not clean up until an 1/8" overbore was done, as per my eyeballs and not actual measuring. Once the block is bare, I intend to bring it into work, clean it, and have my supervisor take a look. We can probably bore the bad two out, sleeve them, and then bring it into an engine shop for finish boring and honing, since there would be a substantial amount of material removed anyway. I'll see what he says and go from there. All is not lost, and knowing there's $500 blocks at the ready, is helpful as well....thank you Ross for the heads up.

 

Hey Havi, were you able to get the valves out of that rusty old block? Sometimes can be near impossible (need torch)........btw I have an extra block if ya need it T/M

 

Still psyching myself up for that task, lol. Appreciate the offer, and will keep it in mind, thanks.

 

But theres always the possibility of repairing it or as others havesaid a new block.

lol try being in my shoes and worrying the hell out of yourself over if the orignal engine in the vehicle you have can be rebuilt. Atleast the photo I took though the sparkplug opening shows black carbon not rust from what I can tell.

 

took the heads off the second engine. 1 cylinder on each side had rust like shown. The rest looked pretty good. Just throwing a straight edge on, it appears the pistons are .030" over.

 

Yee-Hah! That's in super shape! But... STD on the piston means Standard, you've got a virgin mill there! Did you clean the pistons, or were they that clean? That almost looks like a new engine!

 

Lol, I thought that after I posted it. But then I thought, how could they rebuild it with standard pistons? I had to laugh when I saw the corn. Because the pistons are domed a bit, I tried the best I could to measure the stroke without being able to rotate the crank. I got about 3.63" The 2 looking stuck have a bit of marvel's Mystery oil on them now.

 

Maybe the corn was some farmer's early idea for corn fuel

 

I can see what looks like ridge reamer marks on that cylinder. Real common to rebuild an engine with just a hone and new rings. I did that on my '53 back in the old days, when it threw a rod. AFAIK Ford didn't mark new pistons "STD", so they probably figured it wasn't bad enough to need boring. At any rate it looks like you're in business! Maybe just cleaning and a new set of rings after a light hone? Have you checked the crank yet (undersize)?

 

Well, this thread has gotten 56k unfriendly, lol. The first pic here is what all the pistons have. The second pic is the left side cyl. wall with the rust. the 3rd pic is another view of the right side cyl., same as the previous post' one. If a light hone is all that's needed, I may go that route. I haven't pulled the pan yet. At least not until I get it on the stand....today or tomorrow.

 

I'd bet when you get the pistons out that they are knurled. You may have to bore, no telling til you get it cleaned up and measure it.

 

Figured so. Probably a rust ring around the piston edge like on the other engine from sitting so long. Nevertheless, it's a good candidate for a freshening. I'll get it on the stand tomorrow and go from there. The other engine will get the rest of the pistons knocked out (at least try to), cam and lifters removed, greased up, and put in the corner until one day i can get it looked at. The crank and everything else will get put in a plastic bin and stored as well. Never know how things pan out with the next engine. (don't know why my uncle's F6 was parked)

 

i sat on those two perfect no cracks , flaws or anything 24 stud blocks for a long time and no one wanted 'em . i needed the room in the garage , and they were just sitting going to hades ... i sold 'em for 150 a peice havi and you coulda had 'em both , along with the clean bill of health the previous owner got for 'em from a machine shop . and one of 'em had a turned crank and new bearings in it . i figured i'd end up needing them after i sold 'em ,. or you coulda bought my f-4 . george is driving that one around on the farm , the flatty just purrin' away ....................

 

FWIW, I took the first block off of the stand, and put the good one on. First I had to remove the trans and flywheel. After I did that, the engine spun freely. I knew it was in neutral, but the front gear still didn't move. I don't know if that's what locked everything up or not (trans was rusty inside)....coulda been the Marvels. Either way, I rotated the engine by hand and everything works. The valves work, but you can see rust on the valve stem. Plus I still have all that corn, lol. Still have yet to drop the pan, and look at the pistons underneath, but when rotating, nothing seems to be grinding anywhere.